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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys.

My ride: 2015 Road Glide

Question: I currently have 13" Road6Customs standard apes on my ride. I was able to install these bars without any brake, clutch, TBW or switch extensions. Before this spring is over I'm planning on changing my bars to;

16" FMB Choppers PHATTY BLAZED handlebars
12" PHATTY BLAZED CUSTOM HANDLEBARS FOR 2015 and Up HARLEY ROAD, Harley Custom Handlebars- Custom ape hangers


OR 16" FMB Choppers MONSTER MAYHEM handle bars
12" MONSTER MAYHEM 1-1/2 BARS 2015 UP HARLEY ROAD GLIDE, Harley Custom Handlebars- Custom ape hangers


My question is specifically for you guys that have put 16" bars on your 2015+ Road Glides. I'm going to order my Magnum Shielding brake and clutch lines and I'm trying to determine what lengths I need for each. I contacted Magnum and the CS agent told me I'd have to measure. I explained to her that I can't measure with the new bars yet because I don't have them yet. I want all of the clutch, brake and electrical extensions in hand before I start the project so that I can complete it in one day and not impact my riding days that much.

I have the options of;
+2" (which for all purposes I don't think will be enough based on what I see with my current 13" bars)
+4" (which based on some back tracking detective work on Magnum Shielding's website appears to be the length in the kits they sell for specific height bars / bikes)
+6" (I currently have a Magnum Shielding 31" upper brake line already installed and it is way too long for my 13" bars and think I'll still have too much slack even with my 16" bars)

So if anyone can tell me what you used for your 16" bar installations I'd greatly appreciate it. Again, please don't tell me to measure. The lead time on the bars is 7-10 days because of powder coating, and the lead time on the Magnum Shielding cables is 3-4 days. If I can't get in the ball park I'm down at least 1 1/2 weeks if not longer waiting on bars & measurements.

Thanks a bunch.

As a side note........... Curious as to what the community thinks about each of the bars I'm mulling over. I know it's my ride, so most everyone is probably going to say "pick what you like". But in this case I'm having a hard time deciding because both of the bars I'm looking at really strike my fancy.
 

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so what's the question, which bar or if you'll need extensions? Bars I really like those Phatty Blazed bars look. at 16" I would say yes extensions will be needed but there are more out here better to speak on that.
 

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As a side note........... Curious as to what the community thinks about each of the bars I'm mulling over. I know it's my ride, so most everyone is probably going to say "pick what you like". But in this case I'm having a hard time deciding because both of the bars I'm looking at really strike my fancy.[/QUOTE]


I have the 12” menacing apes and LOVE them. FMB quality is top notch.... i know you can reuse cables and wires on Factory 47 14” bars but with these 12” bars my cables are maxed out, IMG_0566.JPG



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Discussion Starter #4
so what's the question, which bar or if you'll need extensions? Bars I really like those Phatty Blazed bars look. at 16" I would say yes extensions will be needed but there are more out here better to speak on that.
:)

The "which bars" is more of "what do you think guys"

The "hydraulic clutch and brake line length" is the real meat and potatos. Basically asking anyone who has installed 16" apes on a 2015+ Road Glide, what length hydraulic lines they needed to accomplish the task.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have the 12” menacing apes and LOVE them. FMB quality is top notch.... i know you can reuse cables and wires on Factory 47 14” bars but with these 12” bars my cables are maxed out, View attachment 357305
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Your bike looks killer 2G. I'm specifically staying away from the full meat hook style on my bike. It seems like every Harley on the road around here has the full meat hook thing going on one way or another. So as usual I have to be different :)

Unfortunately, no one I ride with and no one I know is running 16" apes. So short of chasing someone down that looks like they are running 16's and asking them about their hydraulic line lengths, I figured I'd try here first.

Lots of RG owners here that are running 16's (or at least it seems).

Thanks.
 

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Thanks Wevsspot!!! I really like the Phatty Blazed... maybe your best bet would be get the bars and then get a bro to come over and hold your bars up out of the way, clamp down the new ones and measure what you need, your bike won’t be down while ever so patiently waiting for the cables....good luck and post some pics when done


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When i put my chrome 16" wild 1's, i ordered the kit from Magnum Shielding. Not sure (or dont remember) what length they were, but it was for 15"-17" bars. Ended up changing out my bars after only a couple months because i hated them, and had more than enough slack to go up to the black 18" i have now. So idk if they run longer than advertised or what, but i still have more slack on the clutch cable than i would prefer. Hate to say it, but best bet would be to measure. I wish i would have


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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for that NE. Appreciate your observations.

This evening I figured I'd measure the stock clutch line using a length of old electrical cord and routing it exactly the way the stock line is. I even zip tied the electrical cord to the OEM clutch line in multiple places to ensure that my "path" was exact. I marked the cord and measured. According to that unscientific method, the stock clutch line is 71" long. However, the Magnum Shielding website says that the stock cable is 74" long. Go figure...............

At any rate, I know that the stock hydraulic clutch line works on my 13" apes so I think I'm going to gamble and order the +4" lines (78" according to the website). I'll order them through DK that way if there's an issue I won't have any problem exchanging them for longer or shorter versions. I'm hoping it works first go round though so that I won't have much downtime.
 

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Thanks for that NE. Appreciate your observations.

This evening I figured I'd measure the stock clutch line using a length of old electrical cord and routing it exactly the way the stock line is. I even zip tied the electrical cord to the OEM clutch line in multiple places to ensure that my "path" was exact. I marked the cord and measured. According to that unscientific method, the stock clutch line is 71" long. However, the Magnum Shielding website says that the stock cable is 74" long. Go figure...............

At any rate, I know that the stock hydraulic clutch line works on my 13" apes so I think I'm going to gamble and order the +4" lines (78" according to the website). I'll order them through DK that way if there's an issue I won't have any problem exchanging them for longer or shorter versions. I'm hoping it works first go round though so that I won't have much downtime.
Wevsspot

Did you call my contact?

He can help you out with your questions and sell you whatever it is you need.

My cables are the perfect length without all the extra length and he will hook you up.

If you need help just give me a call.

You have my cell number.

Scott

AKA Swomack

Swomack
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Wevsspot
Did you call my contact?
He can help you out with your questions and sell you whatever it is you need.
Swomack
Hey Swo, no I didn't contact JMC because I'm set on the bars I want. I'm going with a 1.5" diameter bar this time around. Two prime reasons; appearance and ease of internal wiring. I've done a couple of meat hook installs now and even though I'm not going with a drastic 90 degree or more hook and bend up top, I don't want any issues pulling wires in 16" rise bars. This will be the second time my particular wire loom has been tugged, pushed and pulled through a set of bars. My patience paid off first time around because I didn't have a single issue with my first bar installation.

When we did my buddies' 2015 with FMB Gorilla Killer bars we had all kinds of issues with the wiring post install.

I'd absolutely hate myself if I have any problems this time around with mine. You know the old saying......... if it ain't broke don't fix it. Well mine ain't broke but I really do want some taller bars.

I did reach out to David B. at FMB yesterday evening and asked about hydraulic line length. Get this, he sent me a reply at 11:30PM last night. Gotta love that.

He recommended +4 on the brake and clutch, so I'm going to follow his guidance.

Thanks buddy.
 

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+10? That really surprises me. I installed 16” Vindiktas on my 17 RGU this past fall and I went +4” on both the brake and clutch line. No wire extensions were needed.


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Discussion Starter #14
@Swomack and others who commented......

Just ordered the bars today. I went with the Phatty Blazed.
16" & Satin Black Powder Coat

David at FMB is even going to cover the shipping cost :)

I'll follow up with pictures and comments once I get everything together in the next month or so.

Thanks everyone.
 

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@Swomack and others who commented......

Just ordered the bars today. I went with the Phatty Blazed.
16" & Satin Black Powder Coat

David at FMB is even going to cover the shipping cost :)

I'll follow up with pictures and comments once I get everything together in the next month or so.

Thanks everyone.
Very Cool

Looking forward in seeing your pictures once the installation is completed.

Swomack
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Just an update. I've got all the bits and pieces ordered (in addition to the bars) that I think I'll need to get this done in one fell swoop.

Description

16” FMB Phatty Handlebar
Magnum Shielding Ext. Clutch Line
NAMZ Switch Wire Extension
NAMZ TBW Wire Extension
Arlen Ness Riser Bushings
Bolt 1/2"-13 x 2 1/4"

The hydraulic clutch line is +4" (78" total)
The TBW wire extension is 18" but only because that's the only length they offered that already had both ends terminated with the appropriate connectors
The Switch wire exentsions are 8"
New riser bushings were a "splurge buy". I figured that I was going to be that far in, I might as well do them.

Honestly, I think the most time consuming thing is going to be dropping my head pipes and exhaust so that I can get the transmission side cover off to change the hydraulic line.
 

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Just an update. I've got all the bits and pieces ordered (in addition to the bars) that I think I'll need to get this done in one fell swoop.

Description

16” FMB Phatty Handlebar
Magnum Shielding Ext. Clutch Line
NAMZ Switch Wire Extension
NAMZ TBW Wire Extension
Arlen Ness Riser Bushings
Bolt 1/2"-13 x 2 1/4"

The hydraulic clutch line is +4" (78" total)
The TBW wire extension is 18" but only because that's the only length they offered that already had both ends terminated with the appropriate connectors
The Switch wire exentsions are 8"
Not in one fell swoop if ya forgot the brake line! :surprise: Tell me you ordered a brake line, but didn’t list it. Two bolts, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Not in one fell swoop if ya forgot the brake line! :surprise: Tell me you ordered a brake line, but didn’t list it. Two bolts, right?
I extended the brake line last summer in early prep :)

It's a Magnum Shielding +6 and it's really too long, has the wrong banjo fitting / finish on it so it won't match but will work short term. I'm eventually going to change out the upper brake line to a +4 with the matching banjo angle and finish so that it matches the clutch line. That's an easy and inexpensive job so it will be last and down the road a bit.

Yep, two bolts. Our local Fastenal store has 1/2" -13 x 2 1/4 in stock. Just trying to decide whether to go with the hex head or the cap head screws. Leaning seriously towards the cap heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
For anyone that has done the riser bushing swap using Arlen Ness or some other aftermarket bushing....................

Is there any reason a cap head (allen) wouldn't work as well as the hex head? The only real difference I can see is the pressure surface between the bolt and bushing cap (washer). The hex head looks like it would have a little more and the cap head sits a little taller than the hex head.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Bump :)

For anyone that has done the riser bushing swap using Arlen Ness or some other aftermarket bushing....................

Is there any reason a cap head (allen) wouldn't work as well as the hex head? The only real difference I can see is the pressure surface between the bolt and bushing cap (washer). The hex head looks like it would have a little more and the cap head sits a little taller than the hex head.

Has anyone used a cap head bolt instead of a hex head bolt to refasten the riser bushings?
 
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