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Discussion Starter #1
So a week ago I leave on a little ride ~ at less than 16k I have a knock in the bottom end ~ check the compensator ~ chain ~ all good here. Take it to the boutique and the bottom end is the culprit ~ crank pin or rod bearings ~ I can tell you reassambly will include Timken Bearing conversion, Lefty Bearing, Crank Trued, plugged, welded.... Downside is I won't be riding for a month or so ~ upside is that a more dependable platform when complete.... The bike is less than six months old and I understand these things happen just a little frustrating.
 

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I assume the work is being done under warranty with you just paying for the extra parts?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Qkshift ~ I ride all year ~ fortunately ~ thinkin about a month or so to get it back. Going to make sure that all products goin back in are a step up from the stock build ~ Goin with Darkhorse crankworks crank, gonna bore to 113 and do the cp pistons/rings ~ Whole bottom will be new except the cases. Just will be going nuts with the wait...
 

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Looks like your paying to have the work done, why not go bigger than 113, the cost won't be much different.
 

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What are you going to do with the old parts? I'm sure you're not going that far and put the 259s back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What are you going to do with the old parts? I'm sure you're not going that far and put the 259s back in.
Goin with the Woods 777's ~ I'll check on the 259e's ~ thinkin there may have been some metal in the bottom end ~ I'm going with a darkhorse crankworks crank/flywheel (SE trued, welded, plugged and balanced for the 113" C&P Pistons. Feuling Camplate/Oil Pump/Zippers cam chain tensioners/ woods 777's, boring the jugs and a set of worked heads ~ should be a good solid motor puttin out 120+Hp and 125+TQ ~ I just want a solid platform to go with the Baker DD7 ~ I'll let ya know on the cams...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Looks like your paying to have the work done, why not go bigger than 113, the cost won't be much different.
I could go bigger but in my small brain ~ the bigger I go the more stuff I can break ~ my goal is 100k motor (2-2.5 years for me) ~ Just want a nice mix of power & dependability ~ This thinking may be wrong but I would be happy if I am at 120+hp and 125+tq ~ So you are probaly right dbel ~ but I'm already headed down the path and hope to do some ridin with ya in South FL ~ SemperFi
 

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Good luck MitchD, just went thru this 12 months ago with rod bearing in lower end. I agree build one that you can get the other 80k miles on. Looking forward to seeing how it all turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Still waiting ~ The crank seems to be the holdup ~ all parts except for crank ~ all machine work in the cases, heads, & jugs are complete ~ just a few days to assemble, and all will be well. List includes:

Darkhorse Crank w Carillo Rods ~ Welded, proplugged, trued
Feuling Camplate/Oil Pump
Timken Bearing Conversion
Zippers Cam Chain Tensioners
Woods Cams (not sure which one yet)
Woods Directional Lifters
SE adj push rods
Hi Flo heads (Rosa's Cycles)
113 C&P Pistons/Rings
58mm Throttle body/intake

Only stock items will be cases and bored jugs ~
The bottom end should be rock solid/overbuilt for a touring application

The numbers should be 120+hp/130+tq ~ based on the dyno's at the woods website.

I am hoping another two weeks and I'll be ridin so I'll keep ya posted
Fortunately HD esp has a rental in the garage (10 days) and friends have been kind enuf to keep me on bikes since this little episode began.

BTW if you have not ridden a vrod it is definitely an interesting powerplant. I have a muscle in the garage till Friday. It starts pulling at 5k all the way to 9k ~ thinkin this would not help with my speeding tickets. I'm not sure if it would be right for a bagger yet but with a bit more torque would probably be a blast....

SemperFi
 

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BTW if you have not ridden a vrod it is definitely an interesting powerplant. I have a muscle in the garage till Friday. It starts pulling at 5k all the way to 9k ~ thinkin this would not help with my speeding tickets. I'm not sure if it would be right for a bagger yet but with a bit more torque would probably be a blast....
I had a 2009 Muscle. You're right, it's an all you can eat buffet on the top end of the Revolution engine. I always thought it was a little soft on the bottom end for anything bigger than a V-Rod. Now if you made that 1250cc into a 1753cc you might have something for a touring bike.

Good luck on getting your skunk back together soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I had a 2009 Muscle. You're right, it's an all you can eat buffet on the top end of the Revolution engine. I always thought it was a little soft on the bottom end for anything bigger than a V-Rod. Now if you made that 1250cc into a 1753cc you might have something for a touring bike.

Good luck on getting your skunk back together soon.
Thanks on the wishes ~ The Skunk should be worth the wait ~ interested to see if HD tries the Revolution in the 15 Road Glide ~ Tried to by Brad Pitt's Road Rod (VRod Road Glide) on ebay but the seller and I were about 1200 bucks apart ~ Oh well ~ here I sit patiently awaiting a Revived Stronger Skunk ~
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So the 12 CVO RG Custom is now a 113 Oasis Cycles Build

Rosa's Cycles reworked 110 Heads
Stock cylinders bored to 113
Screamin Eagle ADJ Pushrods
Woods TW8-6 Cams
Woods Directional Lifters
Feuling Camplate/Oil Pump
Zippers Cam Chain Tensioners
Timken Conversion
Hefty Lefty on the Right Side
SilverMoon Crank with H Beam Rods
Wiseco 10 1/2 to 1 Pistons/Rings
S&S Power Tune Duals Jet Black
Technoresearch Fuel Management (also fixed DD7 Cruise Issue only working in 7th gear now works in 4th - 7th):)
HPI 58mm Throttle Body
My goal was to have a dependable touring platform.

Will let ya know dyno results after break in.

Initial impression is motor is quiet and responsive compared to the stage III that was done before I purchased ~ dyno'd at 104/109 with the Stage III.

Crank bad at 15,600 miles ~ (Rod bearing on the front cylinder), so might as well upgrade a couple of items.

I did not want to bore cases so 113 was the best option for me.

Bike is in breakin period and I have done 660 miles so far ~ it runs great ~ and definitely has a bit more snap. I have been diligent to keep the r's around 3k on the high end but can't wait to get the final dyno done.

I have to be cautious what I post here ~ I am not endorsing or recommending a specific shop ~ as there are many pro's out there and as many snakeoil salesman..... I am only providing my experience with the businesses I have done business with and am not discrediting any other organization. This disclaimer is on here since a few of my post's have mysteriously disappeared into cyberspace while the thread remains...

SemperFi
 

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I know you are "chafing at the bit to let that horse out of the gate", but I know that you will break it in properly as this isn't your first rodeo, and you wern't selling peanuts at the last one...

Why did you go to the S&S exhaust?

Gotta put in 'dem disclaimers.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I know you are "chafing at the bit to let that horse out of the gate", but I know that you will break it in properly as this isn't your first rodeo, and you wern't selling peanuts at the last one...

Why did you go to the S&S exhaust?

Gotta put in 'dem disclaimers.
The S&S Exhaust was not my choice ~ I told em to do whatever they wanted ~ but I will say the black exhaust on my skunk looks great & the pipes sound great ~ SemperFi
 
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