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After a Stage 1 upgrade, Fuel Moto 2-1-2 SS ceramic coated pipe, Fuel Moto Pro billet A/C, Powervision tuner and RCX exhaust, curiosity got the best of me. Don't have my stock map for comparison, but just felt like I lost low end torque since the upgrade, hence the Dyno run. My bike's tune is with a map Fuel Moto provided when I purchased it, coupled with a few of my own Auto Tune runs. Prior to the Dyno run, conversations with Brian at Fuel Moto lead to the RCXs possibly being source of torque problem. While the numbers seem to be ok, I mentioned seat of pants felt 60-70hp and 70 tq at best. Was really surprised at the Dyno results, expected much worse. Torque still comes in too late for my liking. Also, AFR has a bad bump at the outset and looks to run a little lean overall. The AFR is spot on, oddly enough, where torque takes a dip. Seat of the pants ride is unimpressive, except in 2nd gear running about 3000rpm. Bike jumps like a rabbit and scoots, but that's not where I ride in the powerband. Tuner said the drop could be caused by reversion, (so pipes) but not sure. Said an actual tune could get a much better torque curve. Anyway, Fuel Moto will work with me and hopefully with this additional info they might be able to tweak it. I'm not tuner competent enough to mess with it. A very good tuner should be here for Thunder Beach, and I trying to decide on a cam so holding off on a spendy tune just yet. Thoughts or comments (good or bad) from those in the know are welcome. Thanks!




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Thanks Hillglide. At 2.5k, the STOCK setup on the graph you provided shows about 8-9lbs MORE TORQUE than my Stage 1, so the loss of torque in my seat of the pants dynometer was right. It'll scoot, but again, later than where I want it. It's that dip in torque, and a flatter AFR I hope can be tweaked.

I'm going to try and get my tune and dyno sheet to Fuel Moto some time this week. They've helped me in the past, and more than willing to help now, so that's encouraging.

No doubt, 80lbs of torque with the 585s doesn't sound right. Was actually looking at that cam, but pretty sure I've narrowed it down to a Wood TW222, or TW555.
 

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I see your in Florida, not sure where though. I got my bike back from H&D in Lillian AL 2 weeks ago. Heath broke the motor in and tuned it. Bike runs incredibly smooth and pulls real hard. Heath is a good dude and jam up tuning bikes.
Ive read on many sites that there a good/great tune makes the build. I can verify that statement is completely true.
H&D is a mile or so across the state line. Easy run from Panama City beach.
 

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Your only above 90 lbs TQ from 2800 RPM to 4500 RPM. That's only 1700 RPM's of decent power band. Combine that with that early power dip and that is going to make for a very unresponsive motor. A good tuner can help some with that early dip and give you some more throttle response, but those mufflers are not helping either.

You have a good Peak TQ #. Your Averaged TQ # from 2000 RPM to 5000 RPM is not very good

A good set of TQ building mufflers and a "good" Dyno tune will make a big difference in throttle response.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Your only above 90 lbs TQ from 2800 RPM to 4500 RPM. That's only 1700 RPM's of decent power band. Combine that with that early power dip and that is going to make for a very unresponsive motor. You have a good Peak TQ #. Your Averaged TQ # from 2000 RPM to 5000 RPM is not very good
Sloride, you hit the nail on the head and described exactly what's going on - unresponsive bike. All bark, no bite. 1700RPMs of decent power in the power band go by quickly, and it no sooner kicks in before it starts petering out. Been looking for decent slip ons since the start of this venture, and seems like many are running either the stock CVO pipes, or the CVO pipes with full sac baffles. So either those for the quiet factor my passenger prefers, but also leaning towards the new Jackpots for starters. I agree, a dynotune is in order, but really thought a map and a few autotune sessions would get me in the ballpark for the small improvement in performance I was anticipating. Brian told me to just put my stock pipes on and see if it made a difference. I'm sure it will, and plan on doing that today since I have the day off.

I got my bike back from H&D in Lillian AL 2 weeks ago. Heath broke the motor in and tuned it. Bike runs incredibly smooth and pulls real hard. Heath is a good dude and jam up tuning bikes.
Thanks Phillyfan. Followed some of your posts regarding your build and yours and Dragon Dude's high regard for H&D. They're definitely within riding distance and definitely worth a shot when I get that far into it (cams). Any idea which tuner they're most comfortable using?

Thanks for the input, all. Much appreciated.
 

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Sloride, you hit the nail on the head and described exactly what's going on - unresponsive bike. All bark, no bite. 1700RPMs of decent power in the power band go by quickly, and it no sooner kicks in before it starts petering out. Been looking for decent slip ons since the start of this venture, and seems like many are running either the stock CVO pipes, or the CVO pipes with full sac baffles. So either those for the quiet factor my passenger prefers, but also leaning towards the new Jackpots for starters. I agree, a dynotune is in order, but really thought a map and a few autotune sessions would get me in the ballpark for the small improvement in performance I was anticipating. Brian told me to just put my stock pipes on and see if it made a difference. I'm sure it will, and plan on doing that today since I have the day off.



Thanks Phillyfan. Followed some of your posts regarding your build and yours and Dragon Dude's high regard for H&D. They're definitely within riding distance and definitely worth a shot when I get that far into it (cams). Any idea which tuner they're most comfortable using?

Thanks for the input, all. Much appreciated.
TTS or PowerVision is what we talked about. I went with the TTS
 
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Did you put headpipes on or are you still running stock headpipes with the catalytic in them. If you're running stock headpipes then either pull the cats out of the pipes or put on aftermarket headpipes. It may not cure all your problems but a free flowing exhaust will help.
 

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Did you put headpipes on or are you still running stock headpipes with the catalytic in them. If you're running stock headpipes then either pull the cats out of the pipes or put on aftermarket headpipes. It may not cure all your problems but a free flowing exhaust will help.

Thanks Ironmark. Yes, my Stage 1 consists of a Fuel Moto 2-1-2 Headpipe, Fuel Moto Pro billet A/C, Powervision tuner, and what I think is the weak link - the RCX mufflers. Oddly, was told perhaps I have too much flow with the RCXs and need more back pressure. Love the sound of the system, but will sacrifice sound and looks for a better running machine (to a certain point, drawing the line at 2-1). Sent Fuel Moto my map and Dyno Run for their recommendations and currently waiting for a reply.



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Sloride, you hit the nail on the head and described exactly what's going on - unresponsive bike. All bark, no bite. 1700RPMs of decent power in the power band go by quickly, and it no sooner kicks in before it starts petering out. Been looking for decent slip ons since the start of this venture, and seems like many are running either the stock CVO pipes, or the CVO pipes with full sac baffles. So either those for the quiet factor my passenger prefers, but also leaning towards the new Jackpots for starters. I agree, a dynotune is in order, but really thought a map and a few autotune sessions would get me in the ballpark for the small improvement in performance I was anticipating.
I have a 15 RGS and just did the Jackpot 2/1/2 headers and Jackpot Hi-Roller exhaust. With the 555 cam, there is no dip in torque and the difference from what I had was remarkable. No dyno runs, just Power Vision with Target Tune. But seat of the pants is super impressed.
 
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I see your in Florida, not sure where though. I got my bike back from H&D in Lillian AL 2 weeks ago. Heath broke the motor in and tuned it. Bike runs incredibly smooth and pulls real hard. Heath is a good dude and jam up tuning bikes.
Ive read on many sites that there a good/great tune makes the build. I can verify that statement is completely true.
H&D is a mile or so across the state line. Easy run from Panama City beach.
Do you know of any indy shops in this area. Thinking about doing cams and not really trying to pay hd the $150 am hour to do it. Been also debating doing it myself
 

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H&D Cycles seem to come well qualified and a whole lot closer to you than they are to me. Give them a call and see what they can do for you. Best to talk to a tuner that knows their stuff and can put proven performance parts together for you. My slip-on pipes were leftovers from a completely stock bike I owned prior, and just an after thought when I put my Stage 1 together (plus was trying to save a buck too).
Cam swap looks pretty straightforward. Get yourself a manual if you don't already have one. Lots of how to videos available, and knowledgeable folks in this forum too.
 

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Do you know of any indy shops in this area. Thinking about doing cams and not really trying to pay hd the $150 am hour to do it. Been also debating doing it myself
Call Heath at H&D Cycles. He broke in and tuned my bike after I put it together. Runs perfectly.
Less than 90min from FWB. I rode over there sunday to the dealer to just check it out. Stopped at Navarre beach on the way back, got real thirsty!
 
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