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Stumbled on this forum trying to figure out a back end wobble I now have after putting new rims on my 15 RG special. Wheels are spaced correct and belt is tightened properly. Since putting the 18" rear on, the bike now starts to sway back and forth only at speeds of 70+mph. The downforce from the front fairing is now making the back end of my bike light. I put a 1" lowering kit on and it improved but didn't get rid of it entirely. The shock part numbers are different. Anyone have any idea if the new bikes have different length shocks from a 2015? I'm really wanting to keep on the new wheels but if I can't get my bike back to riding like it did i'll have to go back to the old wheels. Thanks for any help.
 

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Stumbled on this forum trying to figure out a back end wobble I now have after putting new rims on my 15 RG special. Wheels are spaced correct and belt is tightened properly. Since putting the 18" rear on, the bike now starts to sway back and forth only at speeds of 70+mph. The downforce from the front fairing is now making the back end of my bike light. I put a 1" lowering kit on and it improved but didn't get rid of it entirely. The shock part numbers are different. Anyone have any idea if the new bikes have different length shocks from a 2015? I'm really wanting to keep on the new wheels but if I can't get my bike back to riding like it did i'll have to go back to the old wheels. Thanks for any help.


Just because it feels like a rear end wobble doesn't mean that the rear is the culprit. You could have an issue up front that is the culprit and it just feels like it's the rear. Could be anything from tire pressure to neck bearing adjustment to engine alignment. If your tire pressure is good then I would have the neck bearing fall away checked to see if it is in spec. Also, verify that the rear wheel is aligned properly and don't just trust that the cam adjusters are right. You can make a home made tool to measure from the center of the swing arm pivot shaft to the center of the axle. Make sure the distance is as exact as you can make it on both sides.
 

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One other thing is to check the wheel bearings. If the wheels you bought were used and had bad bearings that could be the problem. If they have non ABS bearings in them and you have ABS the spacing will be off but you would know that because the ABS would not work and the light would be on in the speedo telling you so.
 

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@RGKen has some great points to look at and measuring the rear wheel to make sure it is straight regardless of the cams is spot on. I would say also to put your old wheels back on and reassess to make sure it wasn't there before to some degree and then maybe put either the front or rear on next and reassess and so on. I am also saying this as I am going to go with the fact that you are positive that the wheels, bearings and tires were all assembled correctly and are new like you stated. What tires did you install, were they new? Watch out for shifted belts in a new tire as I had a brand new Avon Cobra that costed me mounting fees twice because the first one had a shifted belt. This was my fault as I went with Ride On balancer as opposed to balancing on a machine. If it was on a machine then a competent installer would be able to identify something was a miss with the tire or the rim was tweaked. Another thing to look at is, does the issue change at all with tire temperature? Does it get worse the longer you ride? My 2012 RG developed a tire belt issue in the original front Dunlop and it felt worse the longer I rode or the warmer the rubber got. It was replaced under warranty for being defective. That one caused a front end shimmy that was most noticeable at slower speeds. Just some ideas and possible riding conditions to think about. Good luck!
 

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So the new back wheel you put on is an 18 (bigger)...And you lowered the bike 1"? How? just shocks? or a kit like the DK kit? Why did you lower?

Oh, please refrain from going 70+ till you figure it out...

EDIT: You put a larger circumference wheel on (2") and lowered your bike another 1", assuming from the stock 12", furthur closing the gap between tire and frame...alot of geometry changes going on too...

I helped a bud put a set of 18s on his 15 RGS last month, but also put on 13" Ohlins, took off the 12s, and he has no issue. Just a recommendation, unless you need it to get flatfoot...
 

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I had the same issue on my 16 rgs. For what ever reason when I put on a Dunlop American elite rear tire on and it cured my issue. But I was going on a big ride and put the stock tires back on for it.
 

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the wheel may be 2'' larger in diameter, but with the lower profile of the tire, the overall size difference is less than 3/8'', effectively raising the rear of the bike 3/16''.

the wheel size is not an issue. otherwise, there would be thousands of problems since that is the size the specials come stock with. this is of course assuming that he is using stock size rubber.
 

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I was perusing the forum a couple days ago and in one of the posts, someone linked to a video from Rack & Pull Industries. Watching their videos, it was interesting to see how they were able to show that a bike was out of alignment, and how adjusting something up front affected how the swingarm was aligned, and how the top bolts for the suspension can also have an effect on how things track. Just something to take into consideration as a wobble MIGHT not even be caused by the wheel itself. YMMV
 

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I was perusing the forum a couple days ago and in one of the posts, someone linked to a video from Rack & Pull Industries. Watching their videos, it was interesting to see how they were able to show that a bike was out of alignment, and how adjusting something up front affected how the swingarm was aligned, and how the top bolts for the suspension can also have an effect on how things track. Just something to take into consideration as a wobble MIGHT not even be caused by the wheel itself. YMMV
Good info here, just like you said it was so interesting to see what the problem was and the fix was up front! :wink:
 
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