[Kevincanta]

* 2016 FLTRXS with FM STAGE 1:2-1-2 Headers, Hi-roller slips ons, Pro billet AC, and Power Vision*

First of all, I'm doing my own 1k service...and I guess that's why I'm here. Again, this is my FIRST HARLEY and FIRST BRAND NEW motorcycle. This will be my first 1k service for any of the bikes I've had and I'm just looking for pointers, tips and tricks, and overall advice/help.

I have the owner's manual...and first want to know if the checklist in the back is the same as the service manual. Would I need to get the service manual to do a proper 1k service.

I KNOW I WILL PUT THE RIGHT OILS/LUBES for each hole, none of that same liquid in all 3. So I've heard great things about amsoil and redline or whatever. A comment on what you use would be great guidance...I live in Sunny SoCal(Los Angeles).

Lastly, I'm currently at about 800 miles and a quarter in to my tank. I'm sure i will reach 1k before I finish the tank before this weekend's ride...SO would you guys recommend I do my 1k service before I do my WEEKEND riding regardless of mileage or should I do my WEEKEND riding then do the service after, like Sunday after all the activities. I know I will be well over 1k by that time so just advice would be great.

On my list of oils as of now is:
1. Amsoil Premium Protection 20w/50 Synthetic Motor Oil (i have read some controversy on this, but I do not have cats anymore since I did a FM stage 1)
2.Redline 20w/60
3.Mobil1 15w/50
4.Shell rotella t for primary
I'M UP IN THE AIR FOR GEAR LUBES for the TRANNY

Any knowledge on oils from MY SHARK BROTHERS would be very helpful!

Thanks in advanced and sorry for the long read. I JUST REALLY TRUST YOUR OPINIONS AND INPUT.

Blessings from the City of Angels,
Kevin Canta

 

[Spoon Bob]

Tons of info on do it yourself 1K service. Do a search....

 

[Smarty]

I love Amsoil and have used it for years. I like Redline 20w50 and it's a great oil. I use Liquid-Moly and buy it on Amazon. It's made by BMW. I use the 20w60 and pay about $40 for a 5 litre bottle. I and others have run test and had it check at Blackstone Labs and intervals all the way to 8000 miles on an oil change. Every single one came back with shining great reports. The one at 8000 said they believed it could stay in til 10,000 miles and be ok. I didn't but now when I go on the long trips, I don't worry about getting the oil changed in the middle of it. I use Wix oil filters from O'Reilly Auto Parts. One of the best filters made. In the tranny, I use Redline shock proof gear lube, and in the primary I use the Liqui-Moly or prefer the Redline or Bel-Ray primary oil. Either is equally as good. It's an oil thread and you can get a hundred different testimonies on this subject. The one I have has been tested and proven. But then again, I imagine, others have been too. Good luck and happy servicing.

 

[Big_gary]

* 2016 FLTRXS with FM STAGE 1:2-1-2 Headers, Hi-roller slips ons, Pro billet AC, and Power Vision*

First of all, I'm doing my own 1k service...and I guess that's why I'm here. Again, this is my FIRST HARLEY and FIRST BRAND NEW motorcycle. This will be my first 1k service for any of the bikes I've had and I'm just looking for pointers, tips and tricks, and overall advice/help.

I have the owner's manual...and first want to know if the checklist in the back is the same as the service manual. Would I need to get the service manual to do a proper 1k service.

I KNOW I WILL PUT THE RIGHT OILS/LUBES for each hole, none of that same liquid in all 3. So I've heard great things about amsoil and redline or whatever. A comment on what you use would be great guidance...I live in Sunny SoCal(Los Angeles).

Lastly, I'm currently at about 800 miles and a quarter in to my tank. I'm sure i will reach 1k before I finish the tank before this weekend's ride...SO would you guys recommend I do my 1k service before I do my WEEKEND riding regardless of mileage or should I do my WEEKEND riding then do the service after, like Sunday after all the activities. I know I will be well over 1k by that time so just advice would be great.

On my list of oils as of now is:
1. Amsoil Premium Protection 20w/50 Synthetic Motor Oil (i have read some controversy on this, but I do not have cats anymore since I did a FM stage 1)
2.Redline 20w/60
3.Mobil1 15w/50
4.Shell rotella t for primary
I'M UP IN THE AIR FOR GEAR LUBES for the TRANNY

Any knowledge on oils from MY SHARK BROTHERS would be very helpful!

Thanks in advanced and sorry for the long read. I JUST REALLY TRUST YOUR OPINIONS AND INPUT.

Blessings from the City of Angels,
Kevin Canta

I'd ride it this weekend, then start the service incase you run into trouble. It's always helpful to have a shop manual around when your working on the bike. You'll need it for torque specs anyways.
Try to loosen the clutch cover screws when the bike is hot. This might help soften up the lock tite on the threads . They can be a pita the first time. You can reuse the the clutch covers gasket too, and the O rings on the plugs if they look good. I always fill the engine oil to between the marks. This will keep the blow-off into the air cleaner to a minimum. The other two holes I add what's recommend.
I run Mobile 1 20/50 in the engine and Redline gear oil with shockproof in the tranny. I use HD SN3 in the primary because of its synthetic properties, witch indurse heat better than non synthetic and it's HD approved. If you choose Rotella or atf, that will be fine too for the primary .
Good luck .

 

[Smarty]

I'd ride it this weekend, then start the service incase you run into trouble. It's always helpful to have a shop manual around when your working on the bike. You'll need it for torque specs anyways.
Try to loosen the clutch cover screws when the bike is hot. This might help soften up the lock tite on the threads . They can be a pita the first time. You can reuse the the clutch covers gasket too, and the O rings on the plugs if they look good. I always fill the engine oil to between the marks. This will keep the blow-off into the air cleaner to a minimum. The other two holes I add what's recommend.
I run Mobile 1 20/50 in the engine and Redline gear oil with shockproof in the tranny. I use HD SN3 in the primary because of its synthetic properties, witch indurse heat better than non synthetic and it's HD approved. If you choose Rotella or atf, that will be fine too for the primary .
Good luck .

Actually Gary, they are not recommending that anymore for the primary due to the failures of the compensators over the last several years. A good synthetic oil or a Redline or Bel-Ray primary oil is much better on the lubrication of the compensator and works well with the clutch pack too,

 

[Big_gary]

Actually Gary, they are not recommending that anymore for the primary due to the failures of the compensators over the last several years. A good synthetic oil or a Redline or Bel-Ray primary oil is much better on the lubrication of the compensator and works well with the clutch pack too,

I read about folk's having problems with slippage on the clutch using full synthetic. I got almost 40k and never changed the compensator. Been using SN3 since day 1 in the primary. Maybe I'm lucky. I hadn't heard that the moco disapproved of the usage of the SN3 either. I will have to check on that , thanks.

 

[twowheeladdict]

I read about folk's having problems with slippage on the clutch using full synthetic. I got almost 40k and never changed the compensator. Been using SN3 since day 1 in the primary. Maybe I'm lucky. I hadn't heard that the moco disapproved of the usage of the SN3 either. I will have to check on that , thanks.

I sure hope not, since they say that syn3 comes in the bike, and it is all over the manual to use syn3.

As far as all the other stuff besides the fluids, you need the service manual for the torque specs of all the fasteners that should be checked.

I bought the service manuals from boardtracker. Got a good price compared to local dealer.

Since this is my first Harley, I bought the funnel to put the fluid in the primary, and the funnel to capture the oil that will otherwise drip all over the front of the bike when you pull the oil filter.

 

[Q-Hog]

Smarty, you have any model number for the Wix oil filter you use?


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[RGornothin]

sup kevin. i do my own service too. all (3) drane plugs are the same on the new bikes. do not pull the "set screw" below the crank. you will get a bit of oil out of doing this but its for tear down, or major motor work when you need to split the case...the first time you do it , it may be easy to drop one oil at a time. i use ams oil in everything i own.. they just came out with a specific trans oil . in the bike now. i like it a little better, seems a bit heavier. before that i just used motor oil in both.

 

[Smarty]

Smarty, you have any model number for the Wix oil filter you use?


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Wix 51348 or Wix 57348

I prefer the 51348, the microns it filters is a little bigger like the older Harleys were. I've heard horror stories of the new higher microns making the bypass valve open sooner which is not filtering at all. Another thing most people don't understand is, when you crank your engine on cold mornings, the bypass opens to let oil through until it has warmed enough to become thin enough to pass thru the filter. Always a great idea not to blip your throttle on startup and wait a minute before and let it warm before you take off. This is when the most metal on metal happens and micro particles circulate thru out the system. If you want what the Harley filter is, get the 57348.

 

['05Train]

Oh goody, an oil thread.

I had a 2010 FLHTK, and did UOA through Blackstone every 5,000 miles. I exclusively ran Amsoil in the engine. After 50,000 miles, I came to two conclusions....First, that there's no need to change the oil more often, and second that I won't use Amsoil again. The Amsoil's viscosity was just not stable enough for me, though realistically the motor would have been fine for another 150,000 miles. I've since started using Mobil 1, and with the couple of UOAs I've done, I've found it to be much more stable. That's been the case in everything from my 120hp Night Train, to my 160hp K1600.

My transmissions get Mobil 1 gear oil, and I change it every 10,000 miles.

I've tried all sorts of stuff in the primary. ATF sucks, and it's hell on the compensator (replaced two in the FLHTK). I've found nothing that works as well as Formula +. It gives the best clutch feel and the smoothest shifts. The only fluid that comes close is Drag Specialties Primary Fluid, and my local source has gone out of business. I'm a true believer in changing the primary fluid every 5,000 miles.

 

[Smarty]

Oh goody, an oil thread.

I had a 2010 FLHTK, and did UOA through Blackstone every 5,000 miles. I exclusively ran Amsoil in the engine. After 50,000 miles, I came to two conclusions....First, that there's no need to change the oil more often, and second that I won't use Amsoil again. The Amsoil's viscosity was just not stable enough for me, though realistically the motor would have been fine for another 150,000 miles. I've since started using Mobil 1, and with the couple of UOAs I've done, I've found it to be much more stable. That's been the case in everything from my 120hp Night Train, to my 160hp K1600.

My transmissions get Mobil 1 gear oil, and I change it every 10,000 miles.

I've tried all sorts of stuff in the primary. ATF sucks, and it's hell on the compensator (replaced two in the FLHTK). I've found nothing that works as well as Formula +. It gives the best clutch feel and the smoothest shifts. The only fluid that comes close is Drag Specialties Primary Fluid, and my local source has gone out of business. I'm a true believer in changing the primary fluid every 5,000 miles.

Dead on. You might give the Liquid-Moly a try. I buy from Amazon with free shipping.

 

[batman825]

Many of you are recommending a different fluid that the moco's brand. Should you avoid their products? I'm finding it confusing reading this as there appears to be problems with all the brands. Which are the safe products to put in my expensive sled?

 

[tdkkart]

Many of you are recommending a different fluid that the moco's brand. Should you avoid their products? I'm finding it confusing reading this as there appears to be problems with all the brands. Which are the safe products to put in my expensive sled?

The problem with the MoCo's products is that they are bid out for the lowest bidder.

"We want these specs, which one of you can give it to us for the least money??"

So you're getting the cheapest available product, sold to us for the highest price they can get away with.

There are better products out there for the same or less money.

I run Redline products in the primary and transmission, change them every time I change the engine oil at 5000mi.
Never understood why you would change the oil that had the best chance of have wear causing contaminents only 1/2 as often as the filtered engine oil??

I run Mobil1 15w-50 in the engine.
Yes, the car stuff, because the old timers that ran synthetics when Mobil1 was THE synthetic, swear by it. Something better out there?? Maybe, but this works, and it's commonly available if I should need some away from home.

 

[Smarty]

The problem with the MoCo's products is that they are bid out for the lowest bidder.

"We want these specs, which one of you can give it to us for the least money??"

So you're getting the cheapest available product, sold to us for the highest price they can get away with.

There are better products out there for the same or less money.

I run Redline products in the primary and transmission, change them every time I change the engine oil at 5000mi.
Never understood why you would change the oil that had the best chance of have wear causing contaminents only 1/2 as often as the filtered engine oil??

I run Mobil1 15w-50 in the engine.
Yes, the car stuff, because the old timers that ran synthetics when Mobil1 was THE synthetic, swear by it. Something better out there?? Maybe, but this works, and it's commonly available if I should need some away from home.

For the same reason in our cars and pickups we change the transmission and rear end grease almost never. No hydrocarbons contaminating the system that really causes most of the problems with engines. In a tranny, if the gears were produced correct with excerptible tolerances, a good gear lube should go 10,000 miles easy. Not so much if you are using an oil made for the motor. In there primary, you have clutch debris contaminating the oil so that is a different story too. You have gears and chains and clutch plates. One oil is good for chains and sprockets, one is great for the clutch. So to do the best we can, we use a lubricant that is made with that in mind. Like Bel-Ray primary lube and Redline primary lube.

 

[smitty901]

Any brand oil or lube you use that meets the spec is fine. No one oil is going to make much if any difference in your bike.
Many have run nothing but HD products in their bikes of years and put 100,000 Miles on them . Others have run every fancy name brand magic oil or lube and toasted them at less than 50K.
Don't get too rapped up in that nothing but the best stuff. It is mostly hype .

 

[GusEmery]

On my list of oils as of now is:
1. Amsoil Premium Protection 20w/50 Synthetic Motor Oil (i have read some controversy on this, but I do not have cats anymore since I did a FM stage 1)
2.Redline 20w/60
3.Mobil1 15w/50
4.Shell rotella t for primary
I'M UP IN THE AIR FOR GEAR LUBES for the TRANNY

Any knowledge on oils from MY SHARK BROTHERS would be very helpful!

Everyone on here will have a different favorite.. Mine happens to be Amsoil! I love the stuff.. I also like the Heavy Gear 90-145 for the Tranny! Got my buddy hooked on that stuff too! much different feel when shifting into N!

-G

 

[hifiho]

Amsoil in the motor and transmission. Royal Purple in the chaincase (Primary).

I'm on board with the frequent changes of Primary fluid. As stated above- It's unfiltered, and highly abused. I don't like the particulate that always comes out the drain hole. Never fails, but it is what it is. With all the debris getting repeatedly slung around in the case, I always feel better when it's cleaned. I use Brakekleen, compressed air, and a magnet. Wipe it dry, and double-check for gasket leaks after a few hundred miles.

Good to hear so many do their own maintenance. Sucks to see a brother pay the dealership to change the oil, check the air in the tires, and adjust the mirrors. It's almost shameful!

 

[smitty901]

Read up on the ones that have the compensator failures. They generally do not put many miles on. They use all kinds of special lubes in the primary , they change it way to often. Then do some more home work There are many that use nothing but HD F+. The stuff so many label as cheap junk and they never have any issues and out a lot of miles on.I am one of them.
You cash your bike but avoid all the hype if you can big waste of time and money.
New bikes it is simple unless you are in extreme conditions .
Oil 5k,Primary 10K Trans 20K. Changing it once a week will not do you any good.

 

[G5Driver]

Hey Kevin,
You're on the right track doing your own maintenance. I don't let the dealerships touch my bike.....too many horror stories.
For the engine, you can't beat Amsoil 20-50 synthetic motorcycle oil or Mobil 1 V-twin 20-50 synthetic.
For the transmission I use Redline synthetic V-twin transmission fluid with shockproof. Shifts are super smooth.
After reading numerous threads on all the various Harley forums regarding clutch slippage, I've stopped using Redline synthetic or any type of synthetic in the primary. Most synthetics have 'friction modifiers' which reduce friction and can cause slippage.
I just started using Valvoline 20-50 motorcycle oil (non-synthetic) in the primary. The label states, "superior wet clutch performance". I now use any straight 10-40 or 20-50 motor oil that says exceeds JASO/MA requirements, which is designed for wet clutch performance to reduce clutch slippage. You can Google and read up on JASO/MA ratings for wet clutches.
You will get a million different opinions on lubrication and everyone has their favorites. Also, have plenty of drain plug o-rings on hand. Harley charges $2.50 apiece for them. Take one with you to the Home Depot Plumbing department and match up the size.
I just paid $2.67 for a 5-pack.
Congrats on the new scoot,
Ross