Damn bro, gettin close…. Looks sharp.

 

it looks worse than the previous photo but that was mostly test fitting for the custom work on the fairing bracket - what you see now is things going back together that will be road worthy, rather than test fit...so tank, outer fairing, and seat missing is all by design! Hit a couple of new challenge areas to think about:

1. moving from 4 to 2 gauge set up - chose fuel (duh) and oil pressure. If I want oil temp I can always add that to the filler cap.
2. gauge sizes pre-rushmore. Since I have an 03, the guages are smaller and dont fit the fairing without a custom bracket...in the works!
3, main gauge fit...nacelle issues. The nacelle isn't quite going back together - its gapped by about 5mm.

At issue is the 49mm fort width and the nacelle coming from a bike that was 41mm designed. Ive reached out to Geezer for assistance...they are about the best customer care Ive ever experienced. My guess is that they know the issue and how to cope...worse case Jim is confident that he can figure it out too. Something to note with anybody considering some of the stuff I am doing will report back on what the fix is...didnt think to take photos of the nacelle fitment, but not hard to imagine. Dont think I can use the 2014+ nacelle with the round early model gauges...bummer.

Just another hurdle in doing things for the first time!

 

Quick update from Geezer Engineering is that the OEM 1998 to 2013 Nacelle will fit their 49mm fork conversion. More updates later in the week!

 

Another snag today....but a potential fix in the works, and something that will be useful for others wanting to retrofit using the stock HD head unit or the Notes head unit I went with!

As the fairing is coming together, aside from test fitting everything, was also thinking through the radio - unboxed the one I purchased and quickly realized that while I didn't get the CANBUS input version of the Notes Cycle radio I set up, it does require CANBUS inputs for the hand controls (there is also one that takes CANBUS input from the engine etc).

I didn't convert my bike to the newer wiring system, so this creates a challenge.

First is the wiring itself - different plug in the factory harness so that needs rewiring and marrying with the right inputs/outputs. That is when we discovered the 2 wires for CANBUS input to the radio and started thinking it through. As I understand it the CANBUS system broadcasts a signals from sensors and nodes/microprocessors. This system then interprets these signals as noise (and priority) abd responds accordingly. Each hand control on the new bikes contains a node. If I updated the controls, in theory this would allow the bike to operate the radio control. But its a sealed circuit board that also operates signals, start and stop/run so...not possible.

Drag Specialities offers a CANBUS conversion 'box' for people with new bikes that want to use non-CANBUS hand controls...so, that the solution! It will take the input of your radio hand controls and convert it all to 2 wire CANBUS output. From there it's a matter of taking those wires and connecting them to the 2-wire CANBUS for the 2015+ radio.

The "test" part of this is we aren't sure it will work. It should work, but the concern is that the CANBUS network has some other interpretation in line with the other nodes, that without the whole network the signal isn't interpreted correctly and the device cant do its job. Fingers crossed. Could also get another head unit that doesn't require CANBUS but would prefer this first. It looks OEM and the screen is better than anything else I have seen. This could be seen in pure sunlight without issue plus it is IP65.

 

OK posted this in the hand controls section as well, but want to keep this thread complete for those folks interested in doing part or all of what I am doing.

In fact, I think I may have been over complicating this. I thought it was a hard requirement that the deck received hand control updates via the canbus system - the wiring diagrams indicate that this isnt correct.

After looking a little closer into the wiring, the deck itself receives inputs from SWC (steering wheel controls) PINs in the main harness plug. Most aftermarket decks have this resident as a 3.5mm jack - this is where you would then add a module that has been programmed to send information by input type (ie Harley Davidson).

Here is the deck wiring harness (pic 1) and the head unit side PIN config (pic 2):

pic1:

Pic 2:

The branch off for the hand controls looks like its taking the SWC inputs (12-PIN connector) and converting it within the box circuitry and then sending that back out
with modern hand control config (14-PIN connector):

Of course, this means breaking apart the wiring loom supplied, but the 12-PIN needs to be converted to a universal 3.5mm jack input to allow for a hand control adapter - so, this item does exactly that. Here is the item: PAC SWI-ADAPT Steering Wheel Control Input Adapter

Once this interface is in place it converts it to any other aftermarket set up and just requires the adapter that converts it to readable information win the SWC inputs:

Hawg Wired

High Performance Audio for Motorcycles. Amplifiers, Speakers, Grills, DIN Accessories, Adapters, and more.

hawg-wired.com

The Soundstream Unit I purchased for the 03 config (HDHU9813RG) was a Sony head unit private labelled. For the universal adapter to work, I need to know the brand and then flip the dip switches accordingly - still need to confirm the brand.

This adapter supports Sony, Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood, JVC, and Clarion.

 

Update on the radio: I was correct. The radio doesn't require canbus; it actually needs to convert it to standard steering wheel controls input (thats the pins SWC 1 and SWC 2). This head unit only communicates via SWC1.

The layout is actually simpler than the 3 step layout I described above. Hawg Wired has an updated version of the interface that is SW programmed to send brand specific signals, and they have a direct wire interface for SWC 1 communication. The deck uses two different versions of brand comms. The MFG said that most use Kenwood but if that doesnt work, than the other is Pioneer.

So, the good news is that this radio can work perfectly with pre-2014 hand controls! New gauges in now too!

 

Progress update:

The head unit continues to be a struggle. I ordered a couple of other hand control interfaces so we can get to the bottom of what the bike needs for readable step change voltage. Everything works, as tested on a 2014+ bike, and confirmed the module in the supplied wiring loom is doing exactly what was expected - taking canbus inputs from the controls and converting it to readable voltage into SWC1. The two converters I have on order (between them) cover about 30+ aftermarket head unit mfg's, including Soundstream - fingers crossed for solving this next week.

On a positive note, the bike fired up - sounds REALLY GOOD. The cam and new exhaust give it a much deeper sound. Looking forward to seeing this thing on the dyno. Not expecting modern bike numbers, but with all of the work, it will be quite different from the factory rated 67HP. New gauges look great too! I was going to do a dakota digital update and Jim showed me these as an alternative (also Dakota)....I like them MUCH better.

From here there is still a decent punch list of work:

Rushmore Conversion finishing touches:

• radio
• headlight & signals
• all custom wiring for merging old to new
• garage door opener wiring
• final assembly marrying the inner/outer fairing

Rest of Bike:

• timing and derby covers
• foot controls/ floor boards
• 2014+ bags and wiring for speakers
• 2014+ razor tour pack mounting
• wiring clean up (a few hacks to clean up from years gone by)
• dyno tune!

 

SUCCESS!

solved the problem with wiring the HDHU.14+ head unit into the bike - all hand controls work despite it being designed to use with the canbu2 2014+ bike set up. This was the last piece of the puzzle and the fairing is going back on for the last time - everything works. Now its all about fitting the rear bags (also 2014+).

Its heading to the dyno early next week to see what we can get out of the engine with the recent updates. Found a custom dash, made for a street glide; meant replacing the seat but to me, the seat not crawling half way up the gas tank is a much better look! Should be about another week before its on the road, but its all there now!

 

SUCCESS!

solved the problem with wiring the HDHU.14+ head unit into the bike - all hand controls work despite it being designed to use with the canbu2 2014+ bike set up. This was the last piece of the puzzle and the fairing is going back on for the last time - everything works. Now its all about fitting the rear bags (also 2014+).

Its heading to the dyno early next week to see what we can get out of the engine with the recent updates. Found a custom dash, made for a street glide; meant replacing the seat but to me, the seat not crawling half way up the gas tank is a much better look! Should be about another week before its on the road, but its all there now!

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@skilly you stated that you had successfully figured out the hand controls. If you detailed that, I am missing it. Can you explain what you ended up using and the wiring please?

 

Everything is a bit of a treasure hunt for finding good parts on a pre-2007 (at least from my experience).

Pretty much everything you look for tends to be 2008 or newer. Given what I'm doing it doesn't matter as much until you get to parts that require you to mount to the frame....like side covers. They look the same, but they aren't. So, if you are changing colors like me, you have 3 options - find em used, use knock offs from china, or use your old stuff and paint em. I went the china route first, and the paint,...you can see it in the last photo; a brownish grey black. Not acceptable.

Painters are the most expensive option and my experience has been the better the painter, the more you are gonna wait for your stuff. My tins look great but they took almost double the time the painter committed and price was not cheap. Hard to plan around.

Every once in while, you get luck though...Ebay special. New old stock side covers painted Vivid Black with OEM stamps and quality control stickers. Never been on a bike.

 

Everything is a bit of a treasure hunt for finding good parts on a pre-2007 (at least from my experience).

Pretty much everything you look for tends to be 2008 or newer. Given what I'm doing it doesn't matter as much until you get to parts that require you to mount to the frame....like side covers. They look the same, but they aren't. So, if you are changing colors like me, you have 3 options - find em used, use knock offs from china, or use your old stuff and paint em. I went the china route first, and the paint,...you can see it in the last photo; a brownish grey black. Not acceptable.

Painters are the most expensive option and my experience has been the better the painter, the more you are gonna wait for your stuff. My tins look great but they took almost double the time the painter committed and price was not cheap. Hard to plan around.

Every once in while, you get luck though...Ebay special. New old stock side covers painted Vivid Black with OEM stamps and quality control stickers. Never been on a bike.

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On my 2011 I went about removing saddle bag guards from the bag lids that the previous owner had installed, which left holes in the lids. So me and a painter buddy tried filling the holes and repainting the lids, which failed after the epoxy shrunk a week later. So I then purchased Advanblack lids and the color match sucked…….. At the end of my rope, I too got lucky and found new old stock bags and lids in my OEM color on eBay that had never been mounted….. They’re a perfect match and they’re OEM which makes me happy……. It took $2,000 after purchasing the shit that didn’t work and then the stuff that did, so lesson learned…..

 

Not even remotely close to as extensive as your updates, but I hear ya as it’s been a lot of trial and error (and money) for me also in updating my 13 year old bike to make it relevant with todays bikes, while still being my own style…... I started out trying a lot of Chineseium parts because, well, they typically cost 1/3rd the price of the HD or big aftermarket stuff. But I quickly learned my lesson on fit and finish with that stuff; it’s just not the same. The only Amazon stuff I have kept is a detachable tourpack mount and an Advanblack tourpack. The tourpack is ehhhh, and it’s definitely thinner than OEM, but it’s only on the bike two or three times a year for trips…. I also still use a pair of chrome levers I got new off Amazon for like $40 and they are dead-ass identical to OEM levers, although I do carry an OEM clutch lever in my saddlebag for “just in case” lol. Everything else I tried cheaping out on has been replaced with mostly OEM stuff off the forums and eBay…….

My lesson learned is to not compromise on quality and on exactly what you want just to save money, because in the end you’ll regret it and end up spending money twice……

 

"Chineseium" - great word and very wise words of wisdom. I could have saved a BUNCH taking your 'lesson learned' as my own - in the end, I have replaced almost every chinese sourced part....funny enough, Im keeping my tour pack too (and for the same reasons!).

 

I get it bro. You want it right, not just “good enough”….. I would not be any different…

Very much looking forward to seeing the end result of your project…

 

The bike is gonna be back on the road next week. A few updates.

BUY OEM IF YOU CAN AFFORD THE FIRST TIME:
In the end the inner and outer fairing are a problem. It barely comes together....it's the category of you get what you pay for. I purchased the "complete" kit on Amazon for 800.00 . its hard to tell if the inner/outer are a problem as you are putting it all together but the internals were issue enough that I sourced OEM parts after trying to put it all together. I have mentioned earlier the brass fittings are sketchy...and everything is ever so slightly off. So...OEM. after that everything bolted together. The trouble comes when putting the top valance, windscreen and inner/outer together. Took two people to flex it into what it needed BUT its not happy. So....OEM it is.

Its also noteworthy the complete kits arent actually complete. None of the padding; no hinges; painted inner but no painted glovebox doors, upper valance is missing/incomplete etc. So, these kits have a lot of gaps.

Here is the math...the 'all in' for the China stuff is about 800.00 and add an extra few hours for making it work, and it's pretty much one time use and problematic long term. Same parts from HD painted plus the internals are $2,100.00. It sounds like a big difference till you start adding in labor rate for the added work to make the other stuff work and if you need back in once its put together. Also, avoid the Ebay 'junk' - if a part is offered, its almost always part of a wreck so you are buying someone elses problems and paying nearly OEM pricing for the part!

ENGINE WORK UPDATE:
The bike was updated with a Harley Dealership (circa 2003) 88 to 95 update before it was taken home. The friend I purchased it from had all of the paperwork so we knew what we were dealing with before we started. Added a more recent cam update (documented earlier) and true duals with MK 45s. Decent results with the tune that finished today. Not in the numbers that some have posted but the range in how dynos can fluctuate...pretty sure there is a customer button to produce HP and Torque bragging rights but I digress. The results were right about where I expected them to be - somewhere in the stock TC110 range - pushing 86/98.

No pics of the bike for now - its still in the shop but has the 2014+ bags fitted. Ill get it home and clean it up from the 4 months of shop dust and then post. Maybe take a shot at the BoM for Nov! Here is the dyno sheet:

 

Bike is home! Its definitely more spicy and the ride is dramatically improved.

Here is the short list of updates:

Geezer Engineering - 2014+ front fork update
Geezer Engineering - 180mm rear tire kit and carbon fiber fender
Legend Rear shocks
Prodigy front wheel/ matching rear (w/o cushdrive)
2014+ bags
2008 brembo front brake update
Performance Machine 2 piece rear brake update
Dakota digital analog gauge update
2014+ Soundstream deck
inner/outer Rushmore fairing update
complete lighting update to LED (brake/signal/headlight)
Arlen Ness foot controls and mirrors
Harley "Empire" footboards (driver/passenger)
Drag seat - Street Glide
Custom dash - long version for seat conversion
M45 S&S pipes & true dual exhaust
new bars (mini apes)
2014+ front fender

That's the major stuff - tons of powercoating, paint, and of course hours! Nothing really fits perfectly so you either find really well done aftermarket kits (like Geezer) or you lean on a guy like Jim at Metal Dragon to fab a solution. The great part is that it finished exactly like what was in my head, and so far, makes everyone smile and scratch their head when the see it and try to square up the fact its a 20 year old bike!

"Wait, this is an '03??"

Hope that this is helpful for anyone else who takes on some or all of this. Happy to help where ever I can; this forum is built on that!

 

What an awesome project!!! Well done! You've really gone all the way in - I appreciate it. The result is perfect. You really made it your own. Is it time to think about upgrades yet? Hahahaha

 

Great job - it sure looks good.

 

Sweet ride…….

 

now its done, I thought I should enter it in BOM, so here goes!

https://www.roadglide.org/threads/november-bike-of-the-month-contest.396024/

 

November voting is looking good! Thanks to those following this thread for giving the bike your 'like'. Its actually only 2 votes away from getting enough to win Bike of the Year. If you had a min and you liked this thread, please smash the like button for my November entry - thanks everyone!

https://www.roadglide.org/threads/november-bike-of-the-month-contest.396024

 

they opened up Bike of the Year - if you liked this built, it would be great to get your vote! Thanks everyone!

https://www.roadglide.org/threads/2023-bike-of-the-year-vote-now-through-the-end-of-january.396643/

 

@skilly can you pm me , I have some questions about the radio wiring final product, I’m doing the same conversion right now .(sorry to resurrect an old post )

 

Doesn’t @skilly has been on since June but hopefully he has email notification setup on his thread……

 

Hi I’m getting ready to change my 2012 sg fairing to a 2014+ rg and in also expect to use hdhu.14+ from Soundstream what did you end up using to get the handlebar controls to work. Kind Regards Carsten