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2008 Electra glide Ultra classic to Road glide conversion

10K views 28 replies 8 participants last post by  BCSavage  
#1 ·
Well after humming and hawing about it, doing LOTS of reading and research, and after a few too many wobbly pops I decided to go for it! Hahaha no this isn't going to be an exciting build compared to those that are doing the Rushmore conversions but I thought I'd share the project anyway. So these are the before pics..

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#8 ·
Man I love wobbly pop parts shopping - ended up with a few more guns that way, too! lol. Looking forward to seeing the progress. Over the years, I have not been able to get my Pre-Rushmore outer fairing on without taking out the headlight and popping it in last - so that is always an option for getting it back mounted.
 
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#10 ·
Another tip is the two bottom screws holding the inner to the outer are longer. I just about shit my pants when I first took the fairing off my new 08 and I put a short screw in the bottom and it stripped! Good luck on the project, it will be fun!
 
#11 ·
Never heard "Wobbly Pops" LOL! Those things sure do get people in trouble. Good luck with the project.

You can probably sell the batwing to a Road King owner that doesn't know any better.
 
#19 ·
And this is how it's sitting as of last night's adult beverage session. The only pieces I'm missing are the fairing support brackets that go from the crash bar to the fairing. I had originally ordered some phantom supports that mount inside the fairing but the product that showed up was missing holes and when I tried to line them up to make my own holes they were clearly bent wrong as well so I've since scrapped that idea. Be wary of ordering off eBay!

I also still have to do some tweaking on the wiring for the nacelle but I'll deal with that when it comes off for paint.

Oh and I need a better solution for mounting the windshield. Probably buy one of those aluminum trim pieces because of the size of the slots in the windshield I don't have a lot of confidence that it won't come loose while riding.

Anywho, any questions feel free to ask 😎
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#20 · (Edited)
Even though you didn't ask - I'll throw in my $0.02.

- take the glove boxes off and have them painted the same blue as the bike. It pops and yet keeps the black inner fairing.

- pull that wiring immediately to the sides as much as you can, zip tie it tight to the inner fairing support. Mounting these Pre-Rushmore fairings is a royal PITA and no matter what I have tried to do to get my wiring out of the way - I can still only get my outer fairing on by popping the headlight out first, mounting the fairing, and then popping the lights back in. Doing that procedure can lead to cracking the fairing where the light mounts are located - my new inner fairing cracked and I needed to fix it after only a year.

I created this thread about wiring when I was trying to make sense of the rat's nest: https://www.roadglide.org/threads/pre-rushmore-inner-fairing-wiring-pics.386447/#post-4839669

- I swear by the Klockworks rivnuts that you can buy for the windshield. They are a little pricey, but they are sized just a little bigger and expand well into the inner fairing, so they never pop out and make you take the out fairing off and try again.

- one more thing taht I forgot about. Up to 2010, the fairing supports from the engine guard to the inner fairing behind the turn signals were shorter than post 2010 - by almost 2". Some guys upgrade to the 2010 to get my clearance under the fairing to the fender. If you do that, make sure you have the proper fairing mounting plate to accomodate the taller supports. I stuck with the 08 shorter supports and inner fairing mount, I like the lowered look and I find the wind management was perfect the way it was, I didn't wanna gamble with adding a 2" rise and then hate how the wind would be affected.
 
#22 ·
I had thought about painting the glove boxes and the nacelle blue. It's gonna spend on time and cost.

I did pretty much what you said with the wiring. What I find is the biggest issue getting the outer fairing on is the stupid headlight adjustment bolts wanna hang up on everything and never find their holes. So yes, taking the headlight out makes things easier but then getting the headlight in becomes a bit tricky. Which is why I haven't had it all fully together like this before because I didn't want to risk damaging things with in/out/in/out/etc.

I didn't know about the pre/post 2010 height differences. My bike is a 2008 and the fairing I ordered just said "1998-2013" 🤷🏼‍♂️ you got a measurement from crash bar to bottom edge of fairing that will direct me on which supports I need to buy?

Even though you didn't ask - I'll throw in my $0.02.

- take the glove boxes off and have them painted the same blue as the bike. It pops and yet keeps the black inner fairing.

- pull that wiring immediately to the sides as much as you can, zip tie it tight to the inner fairing support. Mounting these Pre-Rushmore fairings is a royal PITA and no matter what I have tried to do to get my wiring out of the way - I can still only get my outer fairing on by popping the headlight out first, mounting the fairing, and then popping the lights back in. Doing that procedure can lead to cracking the fairing where the light mounts are located - my new inner fairing cracked and I needed to fix it after only a year.

I created this thread about wiring when I was trying to make sense of the rat's nest: https://www.roadglide.org/threads/pre-rushmore-inner-fairing-wiring-pics.386447/#post-4839669

- I swear by the Klockworks rivnuts that you can buy for the windshield. They are a little pricey, but they are sized just a little bigger and expand well into the inner fairing, so they never pop out and make you take the out fairing off and try again.

- one more thing taht I forgot about. Up to 2010, the fairing supports from the engine guard to the inner fairing behind the turn signals were shorter than post 2010 - by almost 2". Some guys upgrade to the 2010 to get my clearance under the fairing to the fender. If you do that, make sure you have the proper fairing mounting plate to accomodate the taller supports. I stuck with the 08 shorter supports and inner fairing mount, I like the lowered look and I find the wind management was perfect the way it was, I didn't wanna gamble with adding a 2" rise and then hate how the wind would be affected.
 
#23 ·
The nacelle painted is a good idea as well - just the main trim part, but the lower section that holds the switches can stay black.

I am no expert obn parts and I gotta run out here for the rest of the day. Hopefully, @skratch can help, he generally has the parts list on his fingertips.
 
#28 ·
yep, the -10 in the part number shows that it came out in 2010. so that's the one you want. using that, you'll be able to use the 2010 and newer fairing supports, and they will also give you enough room to use the same fairing lowers as the batwing bikes.

i'd get the brackets off amazon. the hd ones are gonna run you over $400 for the pair. here's a set for 1/8 of that cost: Amazon.com: SHMTOOL Chrome Front Zinc Alloy Fairing Support Bracket Mount Kit Compatible With Harley Touring Road Glide Ultra FLTRU CVO Custom FLTRXSE 2010-2013 : Automotive

or if you're lucky enough to find a used set.