[4getNo1]

Has anyone else watched their chrome Nightstick turn blue? I had dealer install SEAC and MOCO Stage 1 flash pre-delivery. Only 2500 miles total but turned blue at less than 1000, really bad up next to the headpipe joint and a healthy circle around the rear.

 

[HD-DOC]

Cat in the header and even with the flash the bike is still to lean. Doc

 

[1BigGuy]

That thing must be running HOT and Lean!!! I've got over 10K on my 2010 with the nightstick and OEM headers with very limited blueing. I did put a RideMaxx on it a while back though.

 

[Rowdy]

Has to be the cat

I am sure it is the cat in the headpipe... I have the same setup without the download, or the A/C and my entire headpipe is blue with only 5.7K on mine. I haven't been too concerned since I plan on changing out the whole exhaust sooner rather than later.

 

[Stash905]

The MOCO download leaves the bike lean. A waste of money. You need to get rid of the CATS and get a real tuner.

 

[4getNo1]

I'm betting that your all right. I've convinced myself that the CAT right there in the collector creates exhaust gasses that are just too damn hot for the muff immediately behind it.

Yep Stash, I think I heard from somewhere else (don't know if I heard right) that the flash just changes spark timing/dwell and rev limiter, not fuel ratio.

I'm pizzed that MOCO put the 2 into 1 configuration out there this way though. Seems like they used 2010 owners as their testers and, when we bought into their "50 State" Stage 1, they discovered that it won't handle the heat using a 2 into 1 configuration.

Oh well, I am going aftermarket headpipes and tuner later anyway (retired, fixed income BS to deal with for a while). I guess I'm actually just PO'ed that I wasted some $ trying to get close, for the time being, using a 1/2 way MOCO solution that they probably never tested. Thank goodness Chain has sorted out the rattle-can solution and I can cover the ugly up in the meantime but I think MOCO dropped the ball, period.

 

[triple buzz]

mine turned a slight brown near the collector, but no blue.

 

[4getNo1]

mine turned a slight brown near the collector, but no blue.

Mine is almost black instead of blue . Maybe I'm helping that by the way I ride though. I often just do a "dawn patrol" up to Daytona and back. That's a straight 1 1/2 hour haul each way on I-95 and the semis do it at about 80 MPH (I've never looked at how fast I'm actually going though but I'm pretty sure it's just 70 or so ).

 

[dgoodbmw]

breaking cat out of pipe

Has anyone removed the muffler and with any kind of utensel, tried to break the cat in pieces and removed whatever came out. It looks like this could be done and maybe easier then cutting and welding, I dont know, just asking???

 

[Spike]

Mine turned blue front and back of the nightstick after 300 miles. Did everything official,nightstick, stage one a/c and download. Dealer called Harley and they are replacing it under warrenty with no arguement. Sounds like it is a know isuue. Had them replace with a black one and ordered the black heat shields. Installed Xieds and with the new setup hope to have no more issues... We will see...

 

[HD-DOC]

Has anyone removed the muffler and with any kind of utensel, tried to break the cat in pieces and removed whatever came out. It looks like this could be done and maybe easier then cutting and welding, I dont know, just asking???

There is no way to remove all the Cat material with out cutting the header in half and welding it back. People have tried to drill the cat out with a core bit and can only remove what the core bit size is Doc

 

[dgoodbmw]

Im wondering if that is automatically a bad thing?? It would seem any addtl exhaust movement thru there can only do good. Anyone willing to try and post results. After the core is removed, is it likely that any addtl cat material would blow out over time?

 

[NakedSnowman]

Put my nightstick on at 17miles. Took the Scat Drag fast pieces off and just put the decorative endcap on. Only bluing is at the connection from headpipe to slip-on with 6600 miles on it. No download, no nothing. All stock with stock A/C as well. Light LIGHT browning from that point about 2" up. Nothing blu-job can't fix.

 

[h-donut]

my entire pipe yellowed after less than 1000 mi., flange bolts to tips, I'd say this is normal.

so I cleaned them with S100 and hot soapy water and microfiber $2
then polished them with AUTOSOL ( apply, leave for 30 seconds, work-in
you can see the surface change, little water beads pop up, blue brown or yellow will disappear)
within a 1-2 minutes of working with AUTOSOL clear the surface with PROTECT-ALL
( if you leave a high end premium chrome cleaner like autosol on there it will crack, errode or eat through chrome )
( on the upside, it actually will remove the brown, blue, whatever, unlike cheaper OTC dealer chrome polish )

wipe down with clean damp microfiber.

I also use damp microfibers all throughout, one for initial cleaning, one for polish, one for sealer, one for final inspection....

I guess having brown pipes makes me lucky, I think blue is hot.

What someone else said was true, we will end up changing these pipes and changing them often.

After "baby-sitting" true duals for years, I really prefer the 2 into 1. Way less headache.

 

[4getNo1]

Thanks for the wite-up h-donut. I'll look around for some AUTOSOL (have all the rest already).

ETA:...and yep, blue is scream'in hot, damn it.

 

[Too Short]

I had no dicoloration on mine except for near the discs and endcap. A tad yellowish brown. I use a product called copper ultra when I install pipes. I smear it into the connection point on the muffler. It acts like a gasket. Very similar to permatex. Never had any trouble. Sometimes without a sealant in there after it is disassembled, the clamp doesn't fully tighten. Exhaust gases leak and turn the outside of the pipe blue from too much heat escaping from the joint. By the way, if anyone needs a very slightly used Nightstick with the Supertrapp tuning kit, I just so happen to have one available. Pm me and let me know. Thanks.

 

[4getNo1]

<snip> use a product called copper ultra <snip>

That's a good reminder Too Short - thanks. I do have a little bit of what I consider normal gurgling when under totally "closed throttle" slowdown. Nothing serious at all but there might be a bit of a leak there.

Right now I'm saving up to change headpipes. I'm still oscillating between Fuel Moto's SS headpipe and keep SuperTrapp versus getting a full V&H system and there will be a PC-V too, no matter which way I go on the exhaust. lf I go the cheap way (probably will - retired oldphart who's sure not rich), I'll use the copper paste this time.

 

[DED HD]

Mine is blue. And Gold. Of course I ran mine with just the stock air cleaner and no reflash for about 3,500 miles.
I recently put the PCV with AC/Nightick map from Fuel moto and thats when it really started turning blue.
i tried a different map from Fuel Moto, they call it a cooling map, which runs a bit richer, and took it out yesterday for a test and the bike seemed to run cooler, and better. Of course my pipes are already majorly blued, but hoping to get a full new exhaust this fall.

 

[JasonU71]

Been running the Night Stick on my bike with no ECM flash and a factory airfilter for the last 10,000 miles with very minimal bluing at the collector.

Not super happy with the Night Stick, but its better than stock and I got for arround $150 new. Nothing to complain about I guess....

 

[skratch]

Im wondering if that is automatically a bad thing?? It would seem any addtl exhaust movement thru there can only do good. Anyone willing to try and post results. After the core is removed, is it likely that any addtl cat material would blow out over time?

removing the cat material is a major pain in the a**! it is not like the cat material that we all have come to know and love. no ceramic at all. i cut my headpipe in half, and it still took me about 2 hrs to get that junk out of there. if i had to do it again, i would cut the headpipe right in the middle of the catalyst, not on either end of it. i think then it would be slightly easier to remove.