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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am looking for advice and suggestions.

Did the Fueling Cam Chest with OE+ Oil Pump. TW222 cams. New woods Lifers. Fuel Moto Quickie Pushrods.

There is a noticeably loud tick from the front cylinder. I adjusted them with the cylinder on TDC and did 4 full turns per FMs instructions.

I pulled the clips on the front pushrod tubes and the intake pushrod had a bit of play in it.

I removed the front 2 pushrods and reinstalled again. Motor is hot so I haven't pulled the clips yet. It sounds slightly quieter but not much.



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Have you taken a stethoscope or another type of tool to pinpoint the exact location of the noise. I would do that first so you are not taking things apart that don't need to be taken apart.
Aside from that, here is a true story. I put 222 cams in my 2012 a number of years ago with the stock lifters in place. I knew the pushrod adjustment was spot on but the motor was noisy so I changed the oil and put Amsoil in it and the motor quieted right down. Not trying to sell you on the product but as strange as it sounds....... an oil change is what the motor wanted.
Also make sure the pushrod is not contacting the tube at any point causing the noise, had that happen on my 2007.
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
It's a fresh 3-hole Amsoil/ filter change. I don't own a stethoscope, unfortunately

I don't think it's the pushrods contacting the tube, it's loudest on the front left of the motor.

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You can use a screwdriver, a socket extension or anything similar as a stethoscope fyi. One end to where you want to pinpoint and the other end up to your ear. Just be careful around moving parts.
 

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loudest on the front left of the motor.
So the noise is opposite side of the pushrods on the front cylinder side. I ask this way because when you talk left and rights with people regarding vehicles, people have different interpretations. This i can tell you from decades of experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So the noise is opposite side of the pushrods on the front cylinder side. I ask this way because when you talk left and rights with people regarding vehicles, people have different interpretations. This i can tell you from decades of experience.
Correct.

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Ugh....that's noticeable. I am stubborn enough that I'd check the following :
1) orientation of the lifters - logo faces anti-rotation pin &
2) intake and exhaust pushrods are in the right place.
 

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How long did you run it? It sounds like a lifter or two isnt all the way pumped up.
The second video sounds more like a "rub" than a tick to me. If you ran it for awhile and feel that the lifters should be fully pumped up, You can also try turning (lengthening) the p-rods another flat or 2 to see if that helps. Just don't go too deep to where you bottom em out.
 

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So I am looking for advice and suggestions.

Did the Fueling Cam Chest with OE+ Oil Pump. TW222 cams. New woods Lifers. Fuel Moto Quickie Pushrods.

There is a noticeably loud tick from the front cylinder. I adjusted them with the cylinder on TDC and did 4 full turns per FMs instructions.

I pulled the clips on the front pushrod tubes and the intake pushrod had a bit of play in it.

I removed the front 2 pushrods and reinstalled again. Motor is hot so I haven't pulled the clips yet. It sounds slightly quieter but not much.



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I had a bad tick when I came back from a shake down ride after my cam install. I could of sworn it was coming from the front tappet area. I went to lean in closer and put my hand on the floor board for support and the noise immediately stopped. Somehow I lost the rubber bushing that fits under the board support.
Something to check.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How long did you run it? It sounds like a lifter or two isnt all the way pumped up.
The second video sounds more like a "rub" than a tick to me. If you ran it for awhile and feel that the lifters should be fully pumped up, You can also try turning (lengthening) the p-rods another flat or 2 to see if that helps. Just don't go too deep to where you bottom em out.
First time after the new lifters and new oil, I rotated the wheel in 6th a half dozen times, then cranked it over for probably 30 seconds with the plugs out to move the oil through. It's been run for maybe 5-8 minutes total since the first restart.

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I used the same lifters....they settled in quickly with no pre-lubing them.

First time after the new lifters and new oil, I rotated the wheel in 6th a half dozen times, then cranked it over for probably 30 seconds with the plugs out to move the oil through. It's been run for maybe 5-8 minutes total since the first restart.

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I used the same lifters....they settled in quickly with no pre-lubing them.
I also used the Woods lifters and FM quickie pushrod. Same as you , they immediately primed up.
 

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I wonder if with the new cams that have more lift if maybe a rocker is clacking, after I did my Cams and lifters on my 2011 Dyna it made a super annoying tick which I corrected with a set of Rock outs , just thinking out loud , cause Woods cams are know to increase valve train noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I wonder if with the new cams that have more lift if maybe a rocker is clacking, after I did my Cams and lifters on my 2011 Dyna it made a super annoying tick which I corrected with a set of Rock outs , just thinking out loud , cause Woods cams are know to increase valve train noise.
That's one of the reasons I posted here. But, I would expect both front and rear to be loud if that's what this was. Right now the front is much louder.

It got cold last night, but now that it's warming up I'll go pull the clips off the pushrod tubes and see if one is loose again. I suspect that's the case.

I'll post back shortly.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I popped the caps, the exhaust pushrod is solid, no movement.

The intake, while it does not feel loose moving it up and down, I can move it and hear tapping in the rocker box.

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I did a 107 build to my 96 with 27 k on the OD used a
ALL Fueling parts camchest, oil pump,lifters and pushrods.
It did tap,
In summer I switched to an AMSOIL straight 60 wt and calm was restored. Reguardless of what size or configuration the builder did he said he only used Fueling lifters.
The cam was a woods777
 

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You could take the lifters out and disassemble them and clean them out super good. Then reassemble, pump them up manually then reinstall them. See if that helps....

Next question I have and not to sound belittling but purely honest since we are online reading each others answers, How did you find TDC? You know you made the adjustments at TDC?

Next how long did it take before the lifters bled down and you could freely spin the pushrods before going to the next cylinder?

Did you not replace the exhaust gaskets after you reinstalled the pipes? It almost sounds like an exhaust leak....
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You could take the lifters out and disassemble them and clean them out super good. Then reassemble, pump them up manually then reinstall them. See if that helps....

Next question I have and not to sound belittling but purely honest since we are online reading each others answers, How did you find TDC? You know you made the adjustments at TDC?

Next how long did it take before the lifters bled down and you could freely spin the pushrods before going to the next cylinder?

Did you not replace the exhaust gaskets after you reinstalled the pipes? It almost sounds like an exhaust leak....
Found TDC using my fingers on the Lifers and confirming with a straw in the cylinder through the spark plug hole.

Let them sit 20-30 minutes, then spin them by hand, installed tubes. Repeat. Spun the wheel a half dozen times. Then cranked the motor with the plugs out 20-30 seconds to get oil flow. Then started.

The exhaust gaskets are brand new gaskets that came with the Rineharts. And yes, I removed the old ones.

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