Thinking about changing the brake fluid myself. Anyone with ABS bleed themselves and have success? I would be using a hand pump vacuum gauge system. Thanks for the input.
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2011 RGU with ABS - Brake Fluid Change
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"They" say that you have to use the digital technician to bleed the ABS system. I hope there is an alternative, because I am perfectly capable of installing my own apes and don't want to have to pay HD to do it just to get the ABS system bled properly.
"They" say that you have to use the digital technician to bleed the ABS system. I hope there is an alternative, because I am perfectly capable of installing my own apes and don't want to have to pay HD to do it just to get the ABS system bled properly.
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I don't have ABS so I don't have this concern, but, some people have said they bled an ABS system themselves. I would imagine it can be done yourself but you can't get air into the system. Try it and see how you make out. Worst case is you'd have to take it into the dealer. Open the master and use the hand vacuum pump to draw fluid through the system. Just make sure you have someone to keep the reservoir full
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Not sure how the ABS is set up on the Harley, buy when I owned a BMW, BMW said the bleeding had to be done by the dealer, which was bull.
There was a sequence on the BMW, the ABS had a separate reservoir under the fuel tank. If I had bled the old fashioned way I would have pumped the ABS reservoir dry and the brake fluid reservoirs would have appeared to remain full.
I pumped fluid from the ABS reservoir first, watching the brake mounted reservoir, i.e., as I pumped from the ABS I had to add to the brake reservoir. Then I went to the brakes themselves and pumped and as I did I had to add to the ABS reservoir.
The front brake and rear brake had separate reservoirs in the ABS unit.
Sounds complicated but actually wasn't, just took a little extra time. I installed speed bleeders as I had multiple bleed points (6) and bled my brakes annually without any issues/problems.
There was a sequence on the BMW, the ABS had a separate reservoir under the fuel tank. If I had bled the old fashioned way I would have pumped the ABS reservoir dry and the brake fluid reservoirs would have appeared to remain full.
I pumped fluid from the ABS reservoir first, watching the brake mounted reservoir, i.e., as I pumped from the ABS I had to add to the brake reservoir. Then I went to the brakes themselves and pumped and as I did I had to add to the ABS reservoir.
The front brake and rear brake had separate reservoirs in the ABS unit.
Sounds complicated but actually wasn't, just took a little extra time. I installed speed bleeders as I had multiple bleed points (6) and bled my brakes annually without any issues/problems.
Decided to change my brake fluid myself. Extremely easy to do if you take your time and use the proper tools (I used the MityVacPump). After reviewing my service manual I noticed that the dealer would use a Snap On Pump (or one similar) and use a HD diagnostic system to verify there was no air in the lines. After I was finished I started my bike and the ABS light blinked for 5 seconds and shut off. My front and rear brake feel great and if I had air in the lines my ABS light would stay on. Replaced it with Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3/4.
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Service manual calls for a flush every two years. Its been 4 years and my fluid was light brown as opposed to clean (yellowish tint). Took me a little over an hour to flush the front and rear and cost me $40. The MiteVac Pump was $35.00 and the fluid was $5.00.
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Maybe I should have invested in that MiteVac pump and saved myself money and aggravation.
I knew I needed to flush the system, so before I take a trip next week I decided to head to the dealer ( that I don't like ) and have the service done. I also knew it would cost $170., but without the tools and time I headed off to the dealer. Well, they rolled the bike out after telling me they wiped it down ( it wasn't dirty ) and I looked at the bike, the first thing I saw was fluid on the floor board. Then I saw drops on the lower and some on the cross bar. The more I looked, the more I saw. I got the service adviser and told him to get somebody to clean it right. They send the "lot" boy that sprays something from a can to clean off the fluid, only problem that stuff changed the black plastic on the lower to a milky white. That meant they had to get some stuff that restores the black plastic. After all that I still pointed out fluid they still missed. Then it got a soap and water wash and hose off.
What a bunch of clowns, with piss poor service and lousy work ethic.
I'll never return to them again and will take my bike 50 miles away to next closest dealer if there is something they must do.
The dealer ... southern New Jersey's only remaining dealer. Barb's.
I knew I needed to flush the system, so before I take a trip next week I decided to head to the dealer ( that I don't like ) and have the service done. I also knew it would cost $170., but without the tools and time I headed off to the dealer. Well, they rolled the bike out after telling me they wiped it down ( it wasn't dirty ) and I looked at the bike, the first thing I saw was fluid on the floor board. Then I saw drops on the lower and some on the cross bar. The more I looked, the more I saw. I got the service adviser and told him to get somebody to clean it right. They send the "lot" boy that sprays something from a can to clean off the fluid, only problem that stuff changed the black plastic on the lower to a milky white. That meant they had to get some stuff that restores the black plastic. After all that I still pointed out fluid they still missed. Then it got a soap and water wash and hose off.
What a bunch of clowns, with piss poor service and lousy work ethic.
I'll never return to them again and will take my bike 50 miles away to next closest dealer if there is something they must do.
The dealer ... southern New Jersey's only remaining dealer. Barb's.
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Yeah, whoever did that obviously had no clue.
When I changed my brake lines, I just filled the master cylinder, pressurized the mityvac, opened the bleeder screw, and let it flow. I just kept an eye on the master cylinder and kept adding fluid as it went down. Once I didn't see any bubbles coming out into the mityvac line I closed the bleeder screw. Didn't get a drop anywhere on the bike but then again, I took the 5 mins to properly cover the bike to protect it.
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