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I called Vance and Hines, hoping I could adjust the idle on my Road Glide since I am using their Fuelpak, and of course, no... So I suppose I have to take to dealer?? It idles around 1300 till it warms up and then 1000-1100 when warm..
 

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I called Vance and Hines, hoping I could adjust the idle on my Road Glide since I am using their Fuelpak, and of course, no... So I suppose I have to take to dealer?? It idles around 1300 till it warms up and then 1000-1100 when warm..
What's wrong with those #s ?
 

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Yep, sounds pretty normal.

The only way you're going to adjust the idle would be through a good tuner, like a Power Vision, TTS, etc. Even then, I've read that you'd be ill-advised to go much below 1000 rpm.
 

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Lowering the idle on your bike will starve the top end of the oil that it needs. This is a twin cam, not an evo. The traditional potato potato sound is not how a twin cam sounds.
 

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Normal idle is approximately 1000/1100 rpms. When mine starts cold it will idle around 1300/1400 rpms for a about 30 secs then will drop to normal. I too have the V&H fuel pak.
 

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Sounds like you are normal. You can set it back to factory by turning igition to on and then the switch to run (no start) then repeat four more cycles. 1000 to 1100 rpm is good.
 

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Not so HD has the idle set for the EPA only.
I don't think EPA regs have anything to do with the idle setting.
HD sets the idle at 1000 to 1100 rpms because they have found that running the engine at a low idle will harm the top end because the oil will not reach the to end at such low oil pressure.
Also with all the electronics and lights on the newer bikes it is important to have the charging system put out more current at a idle.
I have a T-Max tuner and I can adjust the idle and T-Max suggest the idle can be set somewhere around 850 rpm but I still set my idle at 975 rpm.
 

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Last time I had a tune I asked the tech to set the idle at the low end of the range, i.e. between 900 & 1000. When it's hot, no problem. But when cold it seems to be cycling between closed & open loop and the idle cycles from 900 to 1100 and back every few seconds. Could be a bad tune also. CFRs didn't help.

I just did engine work and either need another SEPST tune or considering cutting the stealer cord and getting a PV.

Either way, not going below 1000 rpm at idle again.
 

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I have a Thundermax tuner and the program it came with the bike idles at around 1100 when cold and about 950 when warm. oil pressure is around 15 psi at idle on a hot day.
 

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Same Conclusion

I set the idle warm (with the PV) at about 950. Hot, I have about 12psi oil pressure.
Because of the TC top end oiling system design, I'm hesitant to drop much lower. Tried it at 850--didn't like the drop in pressure.
 

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According to the service manual a cold engine will "fast idle" at 1200-1300 rpm until it warms up. When it comes off "fast idle" it should idle between 950-1050 rpms.
The later model twin cams with fuel injection have requirements different than carbureted earlier bikes. They need a faster idle to supply oil to the top end. They also squirt oil on the bottom side of the pistons. If you drop below the 950 rpm speed at idle you will deprive it of this necessary lubrication and cooling.

The "potato-potato-potato" sound is no longer available with the modern twin cam fuel injected bikes. If you want that you will have to get yourself an older carbureted bike that idles at 650 rpms. There are plenty of them still left out there.

Someone correct me if I am mistaken but I believe Harley started making fuel injection optional on Sportsters and a few other bikes as early as 1996. By 2007 all Harleys were being sold with fuel injection only.
 

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I think 98 was the first year on the anniversary models .
 

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96 touring got 1st fule injection "magmerili" as a option, 02 got Delfi fule injection as option on all big twins, 07 got injection only and 1st year sportster FI
 

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Hello folks, newbie here, been following this thread. Old 1980 shovel was getting a bit tired... Just got my hands on a 2010 Roadie. Came with a Screaming Eagle Super Tuner pro VCI, VH 2 to 1 pipe and SE air cleaner. I hated the idle but heard about the oil pressure and charging issues. Purchased the cables for the SESTP VCI, downloaded the software to my laptop, hooked it up to the bike. There are two similar plugs to plug into. The correct one is on Derby Cover side. Under the side cover. Plugged it in and followed directions. Lowered the idle to 800 rpms. SESTP does not let you lower any lower. Saved that file as "800 rpm" and reflashed the computer. Results...
Engine at temperature and idling for 10 minutes;
Idle 800 rpm, Oil Pressure equal to 1000 RPM..Solid at 15 psi. Using Valvoline Moto Syn 20/50 I think the oil pressure is a misnomer.
Charging 800 rpm, measured at the gauge and a voltmeter showed 12.5 to 13 charging volts. 1000 rpm 13 to 13.5 Volts. Charging increased with throttle of course.

No issues with electronics to date but no parade rides yet... I will keep you updated.

Ride safe
Mike
 

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If oil pressure gets below factory recommendation the oil squirters on the bottom of the pistons will not work, resulting in a hot situation. You don't want that. Suggestion is that you stay at factory idle rpm recommendations.
 
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