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2013 Roadglide Custom FLTRX
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2013 Roadglide FLTRX, 103 engine. I am having issues shifting from 1st to Neutral at low RPMs with the clutch pulled in. When I am riding, I have no problem shifting through all of the gears. When I am approaching a light or a stop sign, I would shift to 1st, then try to bum it in Neutral.

For some odd reason, it seems very difficult to get the bike in Neutral. I feel like I have to force it in Neutral, and it still doesn't go in Neutral. I have use my toe and heel to shift to Neutral and still no luck.

What I am currently doing to rectify the issue at a light or a stop sign, is roll the throttle, bring the RPMs up, then I am able to get the bike in Neutral. Otherwise, I have to keep the bike in 1st and squeeze the clutch. That's getting very old, because some lights stay red longer than others.

I am putting this on the forum, to see if others ever had this problem and what was done to rectify the situation. There has to be a better way, than what I am currently doing. Any assistances will be great appreciated.

A concern RGFLTRX (2013) rider. This issue is very frustrating!!!!
 

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2018 Roadglide Special Wicked Red
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Have you done a fluid change recently? If you overfill it, it will cause that issue. What changes have you done recently and how long have you owned it, plus, how many miles are on it? Welcome Aboard by the way!
Kevin.
 

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It's just the nature of the beast.
Try changing the tranny fluid and use 75 w 90 or 75 w 145 full synthetic gear lube in the tranny. I used Mobil 1 75 w 140 and I used 75 w 140 Valvoline full synthetic gear lube in my tranny and it helps.
It may not be a fix all but it helps and using the gear lube will help lube the tranny better and increase the life time of the tranny..

Mark
 
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Clutch adjustment is within spec as per SM? oil level in chain case not too high?
 
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I will just chime in since there is some advice on fluids. I did a three-hole change on my 2016 FLTRU about a month ago and used the RedLine Transmission oil.

Now I can't speak to perceptions or coincidences, by my neutral is now very easy to find. Heel shifter, toe shifter, accidentally.... LOL

Anyway, maybe there is something to look into.


Hope you get it sorted as having the Big Green N is definitely a nice 'feature'.
 

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Shark of the Month October 13
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I also ride a pre-Rushmore 103 FLTRX. When you find a solution, let me know because mine has been like that since new. Both the dealer and a couple of indy shops have all said "that's just the way they are." Mine shifts perfectly, except trying to find neutral at a stop. The only reliable way I can hit neutral at a stop is to reach across and hold the clutch with my right hand while using my left to pull the shift lever into neutral. I don't mind having to remain in neutral it at a traffic light so that I can make a hasty getaway if I need to - like when some a-hole comes flying up behind you and it looks like he's not going to stop. I mostly miss being able to 'toe' it into neutral when I get caught in a lengthy stop-and-go situation in a traffic jam. The left hand gets mighty tired of holding that clutch in.
 
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Shark of the Month October 13
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Removing the stock shifter linkage and installing the solid joints as found on CVO not rubber mounted

I am told the rubber allows flex
Have you or someone you know tried that and found that it cures the problem, or just someone suggested it? I changed my main shift rod to PM with spherical ball (hiem) joints built in and it made no difference, but that may not be the lnkage piece you're referring to.
 

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Have you or someone you know tried that and found that it cures the problem, or just someone suggested it? I changed my main shift rod to PM with spherical ball (hiem) joints built in and it made no difference, but that may not be the lnkage piece you're referring to.
Yes it is I believe. One of my riding buds said he changes his out for that reason. I plan on doing mine as soon as I deal with JS Jack's. I will not buy one from HD since I hate the fact that they put stuff like this on the bikes. They don't get repurchase money. That's just me.


Here is a video from Law Abiding biker. Doesn't discuss the issue. Just the replacement
 

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2020 RGS, FLTRXS that runs great out the gate. Added "jewelry" as some say
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H-Ruo Black CNC Gear Wing Shift Linkage Shifter for Harley Touring Street Glide Road Glide Softail 1986-2019

Amazon

Here's one for less than $25.00...works the same....😉
 

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I guess it may be a good time to consider and replace shifter shaft, shifter arm, splines, and shifter linkage.

I removed some play from my 2016 just by using this. ( see below)
However, I may need another 'project' and so will just buy all the stuff to re-do these alhtough I have no issues at this time.



Yes it is I believe. One of my riding buds said he changes his out for that reason. I plan on doing mine as soon as I deal with JS Jack's. I will not buy one from HD since I hate the fact that they put stuff like this on the bikes. They don't get repurchase money. That's just me.


Here is a video from Law Abiding biker. Doesn't discuss the issue. Just the replacement
 

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I will just chime in since there is some advice on fluids. I did a three-hole change on my 2016 FLTRU about a month ago and used the RedLine Transmission oil.

Now I can't speak to perceptions or coincidences, by my neutral is now very easy to find. Heel shifter, toe shifter, accidentally.... LOL

Anyway, maybe there is something to look into.


Hope you get it sorted as having the Big Green N is definitely a nice 'feature'.
After switching to Redline transmission oil on my 2013 custom, finding neutral was much easier and shifting through all the gears seemed smoother.
 

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I guess it may be a good time to consider and replace shifter shaft, shifter arm, splines, and shifter linkage.

I removed some play from my 2016 just by using this. ( see below)
However, I may need another 'project' and so will just buy all the stuff to re-do these alhtough I have no issues at this time.

Yeah, I know 2 people that the stock linage failed, on the road. (Always good to have tie wraps.) I am changing mine for that reason as reason 1. Reason 1a if it improves finding N. At eh end of the day, other than the crappy looking rod. Hardware stores sell the Hiem joints. But Ill get a better looking product while I am at it
 

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I also ride a pre-Rushmore 103 FLTRX. When you find a solution, let me know because mine has been like that since new. Both the dealer and a couple of indy shops have all said "that's just the way they are." Mine shifts perfectly, except trying to find neutral at a stop. The only reliable way I can hit neutral at a stop is to reach across and hold the clutch with my right hand while using my left to pull the shift lever into neutral. I don't mind having to remain in neutral it at a traffic light so that I can make a hasty getaway if I need to - like when some a-hole comes flying up behind you and it looks like he's not going to stop. I mostly miss being able to 'toe' it into neutral when I get caught in a lengthy stop-and-go situation in a traffic jam. The left hand gets mighty tired of holding that clutch in.
I changed to Red line with shock proof in the tranny and adjusted the clutch. That alone made it 90% better. It's still not like my other bikes.
I will try in inward pressure trick next time I ride. Always seems it's harder to find when engine is hot also.
 
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Yeah, I know 2 people that the stock linage failed, on the road. (Always good to have tie wraps.) I am changing mine for that reason as reason 1. Reason 1a if it improves finding N. At eh end of the day, other than the crappy looking rod. Hardware stores sell the Hiem joints. But Ill get a better looking product while I am at it
I recently put one of the PM models on my bike, just for cosmetic reasons. Except for the finish on it, it looks exactly like the Kuryakyn one shown in the post above. The hiem joints look to be of good quality, etc. and it looks nice on the bike but it did nothing in terms of helping with the "neutral" issue.

I'll try the inward pressure trick later today when I go out for a ride.
 

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I recently put one of the PM models on my bike, just for cosmetic reasons. Except for the finish on it, it looks exactly like the Kuryakyn one shown in the post above. The hiem joints look to be of good quality, etc. and it looks nice on the bike but it did nothing in terms of helping with the "neutral" issue.

I'll try the inward pressure trick later today when I go out for a ride.
Darn!! I'll change it just because of joint failures for now. One trick I am sure we all know is just throttle up a bit and it typically hits N. Even if you don't want to
 

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2020 RGS, FLTRXS that runs great out the gate. Added "jewelry" as some say
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Darn!! I'll change it just because of joint failures for now. One trick I am sure we all know is just throttle up a bit and it typically hits N. Even if you don't want to
For since I can remember, that shift rod is the absolute first thing to replace, or be prepared to rig it up as it will break, at the most inopportune time...always. Spent many a time, with bud's who's broke on side of road ... Doesn't necessarily help with finding neutral, but does provide peace of mind.
 
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