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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This job is not as hard as it may seem. The only SPECIAL tools you need that most will not have laying around:

Motion Pro 08-0121 Fork Oil level Tool- $20



Motion Pro 08-0494 Seal Driver
( You can make your own from modified 2" PVC )

12mm allen socket (about 3" long allen )
19mm allen socket

( Both of these allen sockets are about $35, but you can make your own by cutting up regular allens and a 3/4" is the same as 19mm )

Pick up some new fork seals ( 46514-01A ) and 2 brass crush washers ( 46615-06 ) for 12mm allen in the bottom of the slider

HD calls for 24oz of fork oil IN EACH TUBE to get the proper measurement at the end... this is (3) 16oz bottles





There is not much to taking apart the front end at all.

Remove the Fender, Calipers, and Front Wheel
Remove the ignition switch cover and ignition
Remove gauge cluster bezel, unplug and remove the rear gauge bezel by splitting

At this point you want break loose the 12mm allen bolts in the bottom of the fork tubes... DONT REMOVE THEM, you just want to get them off the torque setting so you can remove later.

Now... one side at a time... loosen the top pinch bolt at the triple.
loosen one lower pinch bolt, then holding the fork assy, loosen the other lower pinch bolt and slide the fork assy down far enuf to get the 19mm ( or 3/4" ) allen socket on the top fork tube nut. Re-Clamp the tube using a lower pinch bolt to hold it steady and from rotating.
BREAK THE Tube end cap LOOSE... DO NOT REMOVE it. I found a 12" extension works great to get down in there without hassle and no need to remove your bars.



Holding the fork assy again.... loosen the lower pinch bolt and slide the fork assy from the triple...
( repeat for the other side )

At this point, put a soft pad on the floor to stand your fork assy up as you apply pressure to the fork end cap to remove it.. it's UNDER PRESSURE... so keep a good hold of it with control and downward pressure as you unscrew it.

Remove the spring spacer, washer and spring and drain the tube... pump it a few times to get most of the fork oil out.

Move to the bench and pad it with a clean towel to lay it horizontal.
re-insert the spring and spacer and apply hand pressure.. this will allow you to remove the 12mm allen on the bottom of the slider.

Once the bolt is out, remove the space and spring and tilt the fork assy to slide the damper tube and damper spring out.

Remove the spring clip that retains the seal in the top of the slider... VERY EASY to remove with the small flatblade screwdriver.

Using the fork tube as a slide hammer against the seal, remove the seal and separate the fork tube from the slider.

Tip the slider upside down and remove the oil lock piece

Clean it all up, inspect your parts ( replace as necessary ) and swap in the new sliders following reverse order.

Use a piece of masking tape around the top of the fork tube ( folding over about 1/2" inside the tube ) to install new seal on the fork tube. This will prevent nicking the new seal.

There are some steps for re-assembly that I won't go into as this point since I am providing a link below to a manual.

THERE IS NO EXACT FLUID MEASUREMENT GIVEN for the 2014-2016's... you can get close my measuring what you drain, but best to use the Fork Oil Level Tool following the procedure in the manual.

2014-2016 Touring bikes all have 49MM forks, so here is a link to an online manual ( 2014 Touring ) to obtain specific step-by-step instructions and torque specs....

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1gXrzoWX0YcAk_i6mjO4-xieMDihhMSQrmI-boTYbzMI/edit (access is now restricted by the owner.... not me... sorry )

Took me about 3 hours total... GOOD LUCK!

If you are a VISUAL type person that needs to SEE things to better understand... this YouTube video series ( 3 parts ) will give you a good understanding on the teardown and rebuild of the fork assy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdEB76xsxWk ( link is now private and not mine. sorry)
 

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Nice write up as I know several of us are getting ready to install monotubes and doing chrome or blacked out forks. I have done many of these on batwing bikes but never on the Roadglide. I knew it would be similar but is actually easier than the older bikes. Thank you for the write up.
 

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Nice job. I will be using this in the near future.
 

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Spazz, Fantastic job. Thorough and detailed. I am future planning a chrome front end and monotube or progressive front end upgrade. This will be handy to have. Thanks for taking the time to write this up with pics.
 

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Spazz, Fantastic job. Thorough and detailed. I am future planning a chrome front end and monotube or progressive front end upgrade. This will be handy to have. Thanks for taking the time to write this up with pics.
When you do, you should call Drew @ Hogpro! He's a member here and will take care of you. Just walked to the front door and the UPS driver rang the bell. My Progressive monotube system and the Arlen Ness hidden axle chrome lowers and sliders arrived today. I ordered late last week! Pretty damn good service! Thanks Drew!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys.... Just trying to add the wealth of info everyone provides here.... GREAT bunch of Shark owners on this Forum! Just doin' my part!
 

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Thanks for the thorough write-up, Spazz. After browsing the photos, it's looking pretty simple. I did the forks on my Night Rod Special a few years ago (Progressive kit, custom signals, homebrew fork shrouds, and fork boots), and I *thought* I had to pull my handlebars to do that. I looked at a couple of photos of that project, and I see I could have done the same thing. Hindsight and all that.....

My F47 bars haven't arrived yet, so I'm thinking I might dive into the forks after work Saturday night. Then I can stop tripping over my front tire in the garage!

I've attached a couple of photos of the Night Rod Project.... You can see how tight the space is between the fork caps and the bars. But even with the cowl on (can't really call it a fairing), I think I could have managed the fork removal...

Thanks again.

Before:





After:

 

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I pulled the bars anyway. But it was a pretty simple swap. And now the bike's prepped for the new bar install. Still need to get the fender and brakes on, but I like the looks of the chrome sliders and black cowbells.

Again- Great write-up Spazz!






 

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Man thanks for the write up. I have been looking for pics of this all over the place for my spring swap..
 

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HD Service manual

The manual says to adjust the fork oil level tool to 3.74"

For those of us with a non-HD tool, that means use a caliper and measure 3.74"/95mm and adjust the level ring so that amount of length is exposed?

That's what I did and several buddies have done. Any arguments here?
 

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Hi Spazz,

I am going to do the chrome fork upgrade also and a great write up once again.

When I try to access your documents and the You tube video I get a "private" message on my screen that does not allow me to proceed further .

Do I need a password or special permission?

Regards

SLIM
 

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Hi Spazz,

When I try to access your documents and the You tube video I get a "private" message on my screen that does not allow me to proceed further .

Do I need a password or special permission?

Regards

SLIM
Ditto!
 

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Why can't you just drain the fork-oil and replace it with "new" oil without having to pull the front forks off the bike? Can't you just drain the oil...then "re-fill" the shocks from the bottom-up? Meaning, pump the oil up through the drain plugs? I have a 2012 KTM and the brake fluid cannot be replaced so they function "properly" without pumping the "new" brake fluid up through the bleeder on the caliper...and NOT using the traditional method of filling the master-cylinder. Why can't this be done with the RoadGlide front forks as well? Anyone ever try it? Pipe dream, or a legitimate option?


D-
 
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