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Discussion Starter #1
I haven't ridden my road glide in over month. I was over seas and then came down with a virus on my way back, so its been a while. I had it on one of my battery tenders (a known good one) and thought it was keeping it charged.

Went to start it tonight, the stereo comes on and I hear the fuel pump run but not enough juice to start (just clicked when I tried to start it). I check the battery tender (Deltran brand) and the red light is flashing, which means the tender is not seeing a connection to the battery. I get out my Fluke multimeter and connect to the factory battery tender lead on the bike and no voltage. I take the seat off and measure voltage right at the battery and its around 11 volts. I also have my own SAE battery tender lead on the battery that I use to run power to my tour pak. I disconnected it from the tour pack, connect my battery tender to my lead and now I have a steady red light on the tender, meaning its properly connected and charging.

I checked all the fuses, no blown fuses.

I've been around electrical enough, don't understand why I'm not measuring any voltage at the factory battery tender lead unless its bad? Only thing I can think of, either one of the wires is bad in the lead or wherever it connects to the main harness it has a bad connection or broken wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Do you know where the factory lead connects? I traced it but it disappears in a big bundle of wires under the fender.
 

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I know you said you checked fuses. Many battery tend cables have a fuse of their own.
Most battery tenders put out very low voltage. if test is not set right it may not read it.
Disconnect battery and test it .
 

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I know you said you checked fuses. Many battery tend cables have a fuse of their own.
Most battery tenders put out very low voltage. if test is not set right it may not read it.
Disconnect battery and test it .
They put out voltage higher than the battery voltage or they will not charge the battery, it is the amperage (current) that is low. Likely about 1.5 - 2 amps.
 

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I don't have a 16 wiring diagram, but looking at the wiring diagram for my 15, it shows power to the battery tender plug coming from a 20A fuse marked P&A in the fuse block.
It is numbered fuse #8, top left hand corner

It shows a spare 20A fuse at the bottom
 

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Make it easy. Take your ohm meter and ohm out the negative side of the tender cable to the battery ground or frame ground, then do the same with the positive lead. Just a way to make sure that you don't have a blown fuse or a negative lead without contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It was the P&A fuse, I thought I checked them all but must have missed that one. Put in a new fuse, wiggled the charger lead around a bunch and it didn't pop, so not sure what caused it to pop in the first place. Battery is charged now, all good.
 

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If it's just the leads that connect to the battery and you know that's the problem, you can get a new one pretty cheap. I think you can get them for about $15. Good luck.


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He is talking about the factory one that is tucked behind the left side cover. It disappears into the harness and connects to the battery through the factory wiring somewhere?

I don't use mine, I don't like the location. I installed another power cable directly to the battery with a coax end for my heated gear and have an adapter for my battery tender.
 
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