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Just realized a few days ago my 16 road glide special will not start when in gear and clutch lever pulled in, it used to before, anyone else have that happen to them?
 

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Just realized a few days ago my 16 road glide special will not start when in gear and clutch lever pulled in, it used to before, anyone else have that happen to them?


Have you replaced grips recently?

Check that the end cap on the clutch switch is intact


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Odds are something disturbed the clutch switch in the handlebars. Or, the switch broke. That is a CAN Bus switch pack, and the switch is supposed to be out with the clutch lever pulled in. Not sure how you can test that on the clutch side, as it probably is starting fine in neutral, and you cannot engage the clutch with the lever off. You can check the travel on the button. Harley shops probably have that built into some computerized test.
 

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Just realized a few days ago my 16 road glide special will not start when in gear and clutch lever pulled in, it used to before, anyone else have that happen to them?
Common issue. As mentioned, make sure everything is tight and that your clutch lever is hitting the clutch switch. If you haven’t changed grips or bars, then that’s pretty not needed. More than likely, your LHCM has a problem. Since they are non-repairable (like the older models), you will Ned the whole switch pack. If you’re out of warranty, you can buy the P&A lighted switches (the pair) for what just the LHCM would cost you.
 

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It's not a good practice to do that anyway. It is always best to start in neutral as there is still a small amount of drag at startup when it's in gear even with the clutch pulled in. You can tell this by the bike lurching forward at startup.

Here is a copy and paste explanation from another forum:

"Here's why:

In neutral, you're (starter) spinning the clutch basket and trans output shaft, in the 24 onces of trans fluid, with gears unmeshed at idle.

With clutch in/in gear, you're spinning the clutch basket, with the clutch plates separated, in 32-38 onces of primary oil. There's parasitic drag between the wet clutch plates that doesn't break when cold, or the first time you pull the clutch lever.

Both can depend on fluid viscosity (20w50 vs 75w140 for trans), ambient temps, and/or bike's operating temp.

If the bike is WARM, either/or is about the same. Oil is more fluid and clutch plates separate easier, with less drag.

IF COLD, the clutch plates can stick, causing higher drag, wearing on the starter jackshaft and primary bughing, due to higher amps to start the bike.

TEST: First thing in the morning, put your bike in gear (not running) and pull clutch and try to push it. You'll immediately note the excess drag due to the clutch plates sticking...."


I'm still researching for an answer to your symptom as this seems to pop up fairly frequently. If your clutch switch is good then there is possibly a fuse that is blown or a pinched wire somewhere. Someone stated that if they pull the clutch lever in 3-4 times rapidly then it would work. You could see if that works for you but if not just keep starting it in neutral and ride on until you find the fix. Better for the bike anyway but you still need to find the answer to why it will not start in gear.
 

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It's not a good practice to do that anyway. It is always best to start in neutral as there is still a small amount of drag at startup when it's in gear even with the clutch pulled in. You can tell this by the bike lurching forward at startup.
while true, there are times that you might want to be able to just pull in the clutch to start. like if your bike stalls in the middle of an intersection......
 

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while true, there are times that you might want to be able to just pull in the clutch to start. like if your bike stalls in the middle of an intersection......


Not disputing that and that is why I said I would still try and help find the answer to his question. It should do it so something is wrong and needs to be rectified.


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while true, there are times that you might want to be able to just pull in the clutch to start. like if your bike stalls in the middle of an intersection......


One of the reasons I passed on a used ‘17 roadglide...



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This was a problem on my 15. Had to replace the clutch lever pack. Hopefully you're still under warranty. It's a $200 fix at a dealership.
 
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Just realized a few days ago my 16 road glide special will not start when in gear and clutch lever pulled in, it used to before, anyone else have that happen to them?
Common issue. As mentioned, make sure everything is tight and that your clutch lever is hitting the clutch switch. If you haven’t changed grips or bars, then that’s pretty not needed. More than likely, your LHCM has a problem. Since they are non-repairable (like the older models), you will Ned the whole switch pack. If you’re out of warranty, you can buy the P&A lighted switches (the pair) for what just the LHCM would cost you.
crazy4ink nailed it and my dealer recommended the lighted switch option as well since that was in stock and the factory one wasn't. I was in a hurry and glad I did it.
 
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starting in gear

I have a 2016 Freewheeler (also) and couldn't start in gear. Read the operators manual Says if in gear you have to have one of the brakes applied while starting. Worked for me. Try it.
 

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Mine has been doing the same thing, mostly after rain or washing. The lighted switches seem like good idea. Will likely go that route
 

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I had the same problem. About 8 months ago they replaced the clutch switch park. It failed again. This time they replaced both the switch pack and the clutch lever. Dealership noted that this was done in accordance with a recent service bulletin. I lucked out - I was within one week of my warranty expiring.

BTW the next morning my key fob didn’t work. I guess it’s back to the dealership before the end of the week.
 
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