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Where and how in what orientation did you try mounting it?
It will work fine with the kappas, just turn the gain down. Yes, higher end speakers will sound better, but it’s not an issue of the kappas being able to handle it.
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I'm with Roadie here. The DA Micro4v2 may not fit between the headlight tabs (the 4v2 is 9.1" long) but I don't see any reason that it wouldn't fit under the radio.

I've had Kappas in my last two RG's and power handing capacity was never an issue. Pushing 225W peak power per channel, using Full pass on the AMP and Bill's BT355. I adjust the volume based on the source, bit rate and recording amplification. The only time I've ever blown a Kappa was when I forgot to disconnect a speaker and I ran a 1kHZ test tone through the speakers at 180W. Melted the tweeter............. Live and learn.
 

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I installed Diamond Audio 4v2 in 2018 RG fairing, below the HU above the headlight, oriented sideways. Simply move the two connectors that are secured by plastic tabs above the headlight. The amp fits there like it was made for that spot. I’ve seen photo where someone had two DA amps mounted side-by-side oriented lengthwise in that spot. I didn’t need a line leveler because I replaced the 4.3 boom with Sony ax5000.

I also installed Hertz HCX speakers in the fairing. Did use BikeTronics tapered adapters.

Setup works and sounds great. Can hear music fine at 80 with 60% volume.

The DA 4-ch amp is bridged, so 300w is available to each of the 4-ohm HCX speakers.

Some think HCX sound as good or better than Hertz MPX.
 

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I noticed no one mentioned the Biketronics amp. Is this due to the cost?

I had the 4 channel Biketronics amp in my 16 FLTRU and it worked very well. Yes it was expensive but you can't beat an amp with a life time warranty and there support is outstanding especial for a novice.

The system I had would make your ears bleed at 80 mph if you turned it up over 3/4 volume.
 

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I haven’t tried BT amp. I haven’t ever gotten my DA amp over 65%, even at 90 mph, and that’s with fairly conservative gain on bridged HCX speakers. My ears felt like bleeding when I setup gain after install, which is why gain setting is on conservative side.
 

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my 2 cents left after my stero upgrade

I got an 2005 RG so probably different issues but in hindsight this is what is important to me.

Mine is a Single Din. Get a head unit that you can read outside your garage. This is probably the only downfall of my upgrade set up. It seems that not many units made for direct sunlight notwithstanding the fact the convertibles would have the same issue.
Never had an issue with the Harley "Radio Sound" unit.

I also miss the Weather channel on the Harley Radio , especially when you heading into weird weather.

I put speakers in the lowers but I don't think I really hear them that much for the money spent on pods, painting and grills and speakers.

Initially went with Kappa's but they blew out in a monster downpour. Relatively cheap so not a big loss.

Now got Hertz Milli pro 165 speakers and they seem good.

Kenwood 998 HU with bluetooth ,front and back usb ( there is an issue with the Kenwood Bluetooth app for iphones- not working so it's really just like hooking up a shuffle deck of songs since the radio controls will not change anything playing on the phone and when riding i will never be using my phone to change anything )

Soundstream 4 channel amp PN540?? (i think) that I thought I toasted, but once I took the fairing off the remote wire had come loose after several 1000 miles of travel. It's been going strong for three years. Check your wires occasionally as they vibrate loose.

Forgot to mention I don't like the Sirius radio as it just seems to cut out a lot even though i moved the antennae from under the fairing to sitting on top of the brake reservoir on the handlebars. Heading out on the highways is better but anywhere mountains, trees or high buildings just use regular radio, even though I do like Ozzy's Boneyard channel.

So you can spend as much as you are comfortable with to get a good sound at 70mph -or for others means just putting in a pair of earbuds with smartphone in ones pocket.
 

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I noticed no one mentioned the Biketronics amp. Is this due to the cost?

I had the 4 channel Biketronics amp in my 16 FLTRU and it worked very well. Yes it was expensive but you can't beat an amp with a life time warranty and there support is outstanding especial for a novice.

The system I had would make your ears bleed at 80 mph if you turned it up over 3/4 volume.
BT makes fine AMPS, you can't beat their warranty or customer service either. For many it comes down to 2 things;

1. Cost differential
2. BT AMPS (with the exception of the new 4280) do not have adjustable gains
 

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One of my amps installed the biketronics BT 4180 amp, and a set of Hertz Millie MLK 1650.3 without the Crossovers I have to use this different set of crossovers by ds18 cuz the originals won't fit in the fairing at 80 90 miles an hour I can have the volume at 6 to 8 out of 17 and hear it perfectly and is loud. Also using biketronics line levelers but those are going to be replaced by a DSP another amplifier better crossover so smaller and work better.
 

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Also looking at a pair of the kappas and a CV B52 amp with line levelers. Going to probably order them in December and install. From what i’ve read it is a very noticeable step up from stock.


18’ FLTRX
Twisted Cherry
12” Straight Jacket bars


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Discussion Starter #32
So after my install I have noticed a couple things and have changed some things and still am having some problems.

As originally stated after the install I could never reach target ac voltage when setting the amp, manual calls for 23.7 and when adjusting at about 50% on the input voltage, volts are around 18, moving the dial any further does not raise the voltage on the meter. I just left it at the point of the last reading where it was responding and hit 18 because before that the voltage was going up proportionately to sensitivity setting, this winds up to be about 50% on the input sensitivity setting.

So with this as a problem I wound up finding an audio shop who could flash the radio. Perfect. Also ditched the Biketronics loc at this point and got a standard loc. Still was having same problem with reaching target voltage. Contacted JL and they were equally confused but determined it must be a faulty amp. I contacted the company I bought from and got a new amp on warranty.

So now I install the new amp, JL tech told me to ditch the loc and just wire my speaker inputs to rca’s. All is done and new amp is installed! But it is still doing the same thing. I am really at a loss and have no idea what to do now.

To bring a little clarity to the situation. When trying to set amp sensitivity; bike running, treble and bass zero, speed setting off, speaker volume 75% or three bars not lit from maximum, playing 1k test tone from JL site (tried others none made a difference), speakers disconnected, fluke multimeter set to AC V and connected leads to amp speaker outputs, gain from zero reads about 2.5V, increase sensitivity, see an increase, get to about 50% on setting at 18V, no change to voltage above 50% on sensitivity setting.
 

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To bring a little clarity to the situation. When trying to set amp sensitivity; bike running, treble and bass zero, speed setting off, speaker volume 75% or three bars not lit from maximum, playing 1k test tone from JL site (tried others none made a difference), speakers disconnected, fluke multimeter set to AC V and connected leads to amp speaker outputs, gain from zero reads about 2.5V, increase sensitivity, see an increase, get to about 50% on setting at 18V, no change to voltage above 50% on sensitivity setting.
Trevor, before I proceed with the rest of my comments I'll assume that you know for sure that your Fluke is operating and reading correctly............................

It would be my recommendation to connect the input side of the AMP per best practice using RCA y-splitters and selecting the appropriate operating mode for stereo bridged mode. See the attachment.

Once you've done that we can move onto gain settings.

Set both front channel and rear channel gain knobs to their lowest settings (full counter-clockwise)

Set all EQ controls to flat

Set source to 3/4 volume

Remove the speaker wires and check the output voltage directly at the speaker output posts.
Place positive lead of DMM on FL+ (white wire)
Place negative lead of DMM on FR- (grey/black wire)
Adjust front channel gain to 23.7v

Move on to the rear channel AMP
Place positive lead of DMM on RL+ (green wire)
Place negative lead of DMM on RR- (purple/black wire)
Adjust rear channel gain to 23.7v

At this point you should be done. But if you're still stuck at 18v there is something else going wrong, but I doubt it's the AMP. Are you using minimum 8ga power and ground wire? Is your ground wire properly grounded? Are you using minimum 40A fuse?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thanks for the reply. I already have the RCA’s split per that drawing and 4 channel selected. Those wires are where I’m measuring from in the fashion you stated. Which is why I’m confused.

The 8 gauge power wire has a inline fuse at the battery that came with the amp kit at about 50amps I believe, then the amp itself calls for a 35amp fuse. The negative is grounded to the battery with 8 gauge wire also.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I already have the RCA’s split per that drawing and 4 channel selected. Those wires are where I’m measuring from in the fashion you stated. Which is why I’m confused.

The 8 gauge power wire has a inline fuse at the battery that came with the amp kit at about 50amps I believe, then the amp itself calls for a 35amp fuse. The negative is grounded to the battery with 8 gauge wire also.
That makes two of us then.................
 

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Since you're not locked in to a budget build you've got some options... Remember that a lot of amps also kill FM reception. I don't use FM so not an issue for me, but if that's your main music source your choices are very limited.
What decent amps are you aware of that don't affect FM reception?
 

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What decent amps are you aware of that don't affect FM reception?
Any Biketronics, arc 600.4, focal fdp sport, diamond (cuts it some but not bad). There are others as well, I just have personal experience with those.
 

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Have A Biketronics BT4180 amp and 1 pair Hertz Millie MLK 1650.3 speakers custom crossovers and adding second set Hertz Millie MLK 1650.3 speakers in tour pack pods. So far just the fairing speakers are loud as hell at well over 55Mph to triple digits cough cough. LOL!!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Sorry to bring this thread back to life, I unfortunately have a bad voice coil in my hertz MPX 165.3 Mille pro. It is a huge unknown if warranty will cover them based on needing to send them back to where I bought them.

So I would like to possibly change up the speaker selection in an attempt to improve from what I had. Current amp is a JL MX280/4, stock radio has a flash for the eq curve. And I have a normal loc for rcas. I always felt like I was missing something from my setup.

Moving forward I am torn between keeping the same speaker and adding a tweeter to the grille but am unsure of what would be involved to do this, wiring, and such. Or changing over to a component style system that is near the same price range or slightly more. So I’m looking for suggestions for either way.

Also while I am doing this I would really like to solve the issue I had with tuning my amp for target voltage. It is the first time I have done it but felt I was doing it correctly. Bass/treble zero, volume at 13, iPhone hooked up to usb input playing the test tone, and bike running. I started with the dial on the amp all the way down and as I turned it I would see an increase in voltage until I reached about 12 o clock and voltage would be at 18, any increase on the dial would not increase voltage from this point. Surely I’m doing something wrong as this is the second amp and they both are doing the same thing. I find it hard to believe I recurved 2 bad amps.
 
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