I’m trying to find out how many amps a road glide special 2018 charging system puts out I was told 48 amps, but does anybody know for a fact what it is I know they put something special in it not quite as CVO but because it was a special it’s a bigger power plant than the regular road glide does anybody know?
As best I can provide for you is all 2018 Touring models. It does not distinguish between models so they will all be the same output with the exception of Police and Fire. Hope this helps.
Stators put out various volts depending on RPM. 18, 36, and 54 volts. The voltage regulator is suppose to keep it at 14 to 14.6 on your dash volt meter or multi meter with the bike running
Is there such a thing as the battery heating up too much due to overcharging? After about 20 minutes it feels like I'm trying to put out a campfire with my backside.
All the touring models from the RK Standard up to the CVO's have the exact same charging system now days. It's not like it used to be where you had to upgrade the charging system if you added a sound system and extra lights. Now that's not to say you may not need to but you would have to be adding more than the average bear to warrant going to aftermarket components to upgrade the charging system. As far as HD parts it's as much as you can go.
From the 2018 Touring Electrical Diagnostic Manual:
A/C Output Test:
1. See Figure 5. Using TEST CONNECTOR KIT (Part Number:HD-41404), test AC output.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator [47] from alternator stator wiring.
b. Test for VAC across stator [47B] terminals 1 to 2.
c. Run the engine at 2000 rpm.The VAC output should be 40-55 VAC (approximately 19-28 per 1000rpm).
d. Repeat test using terminals 2 to 3 and 1 to 3.
2. Compare test results to specifications.
a. If the output is below specifications, charging problem could be a faulty rotor or stator.
b. If output is within specifications, charging problem might be faulty voltage regulator. Replace as required.
Total Current and Output Test:
1. See Figure 2. Connect load tester.
a. Connect negative and positive leads to battery terminals.
b. Place load tester induction pickup over battery negative cable.
2. With IGN OFF, disconnect voltage regulator [77].
3. Start engine.
4. Turn all continuously running lights and accessories ON (headlamp on high beam).
5. Run engine at 3000 rpm and make note of the current draw.
6. Turn IGN OFF.
7. Connect voltage regulator [77].
8. Remove the induction pickup from the battery negative cable.
9. Place induction pickup over positive regulator cable.
10. Start engine and run at 3000 rpm.
NOTE: Do not leave any load switch turned on for more than 20 seconds or overheating and tester damage are possible.
11. Increase the load as required to obtain a constant 13.0V.
12. Current output should be 35-50A. Make note of current output.
NOTE: Rider's habits may require output test at lower rpm.
13. Compare both of these readings.
a. The current output should exceed current draw by 3.5A minimum.
b. If output does not meet specifications, there may be too many accessories for the charging system to handle.
Thanks for the insight. This is my first HD and was totally caught off guard by the heat. Next 3-hole will definitely be full synthetic and also look for some shield options.
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