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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, as I stated in my question a few weeks back I figured I’d throw something together showing some of the things I came across as well as suggestions I’ve received from some members here with their installs. I thought I’d do this due to the extremely limited info of what to expect with doing this job.

First and foremost special thanks to @Darkness54 and @RoadGlideRider for direct assistance and messaging in the background.

Not going to bore you with the redundant stuff. We know how to take em apart and put em back together.

Opening up the dash we have the same layout with the wiring and the cables routed under the riser cable tied to the base.



Unhook all the wires and pull the bars as usual. Cut the wire ties and bring your cables up and over the top of the riser.



Lay out the bars and remove/install the wiring in your choice of bars. I went with the KST Straight Jackets, polished, with a 14” rise.


One thing I noticed while running wires. The TGS plug has been changed for 2021. It is now a much smaller version of what it used to be. On my 17 King I had to depin the connector and remove the molex plug because it was too big to run through the inside of the bars. Thank god no more sticking your fingers with a sewing needle.




One thing I noted when done pulling, the factory can bus wires are just long enough to fit in the 14’s. Any higher and you’ll most likely want to add your cable extensions before your pulls as the connectors will most likely be inside the bars when done. Here is a pic showing what was left exposed after pulling in the 14’s. Note the TGS cable is still plenty long.





After rewiring the new bars slap em in, drop your controls and cables over the top of the riser, and snug the top clamp down.

My goal when doing this was to try to maintain as much factory routing and connections as possible for freedom of movement and no stress on the parts. I used a set of 8” can bus extensions from Custom Dynamics to keep the factory plug backer installed and snapped in place.



I then used one of Fat Baggers Inc 4” clutch cable extensions so the clutch cable maintained its gentle bends to prevent binding and kept it within the factory brackets on the frame neck.




The 4” extension was enough to keep it as shown within the clamps and gave enough slack to mount up on the bar with no issue.

As for the brake cable there was one change I noticed which I did to reroute it to gain a little more slack to mount the control on the bar. The cable is originally mounted to the inside of the ignition switch and aux switch harnesses.



Unplug the harnesses and flip them to the other side to reconnect them to bring the brake cable to the outside of the dash.



After rerouting the cable had plenty of slack lock to lock.




Bolt everything back together and clean up as usual.

Finished product.





I’ve changed out bars on three Softails, two Sportsters, and a Road King and I gotta say this was probably the easiest one I’ve done. Hope this helps gets some info out into people’s hands with some pics to show you what to expect. Any questions feel free.


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Great right up. Ive recently bought a '21 and this is on the long list of things to do. Old bike had 16s on it and I will probably get the same on the new one.
Seems like a lot of the bars are polished SS and not chrome. Hard to tell from pictures but how well do they match the rest of the chrome?
 
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'21s habe the gas cap on the side like that. If the OP's bike is snake venom, I have the same one
 
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Great write up with excellent pictures. Is that a different gas tank I thought all 2021 road glides had a gas cap in the center under a chrome cover.
Only the 2021 Road Glide Special has the filler cap on the side. The Road Glide Standard and Road Glide Limited still have the filler cap under the door on the center dash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great right up. Ive recently bought a '21 and this is on the long list of things to do. Old bike had 16s on it and I will probably get the same on the new one.
Seems like a lot of the bars are polished SS and not chrome. Hard to tell from pictures but how well do they match the rest of the chrome?
Is polished stainless an exact match? No as it is missing that bright pop that only chrome can give you. The polish though is smooth as glass and has no visible distortions that I can see so I’d say it’s a 95% match sans the nickel plating. It is going to come down to prep and quality control of the manufacturing and KST has not let me down to date.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One thing I forgot to mention. Standard procedure calls for pulling the main fuse to kill the bike before proceeding. I did this and while pulling the dash after turning the switch to accessory there was constant clicking from the relay box and the gauges were constantly flashing. Stuck the fuse back in to prevent any shorting and just cleared the standard check engine light and codes when done. Not sure what the issue was or the root cause.


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Would disconnecting the positive battery cable stopped the clicking and flashing?

By the way I forgot to mention. Those tool boxes!!!!! Im a Snap On whore
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Would disconnecting the positive battery cable stopped the clicking and flashing?

By the way I forgot to mention. Those tool boxes!!!!! Im a Snap On whore
Well…… I’m sure disconnecting the battery would kill the entire bike. Just thought it was an interesting sight to see that occur as the SOP was to just pull out the main fuse


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Well…… I’m sure disconnecting the battery would kill the entire bike. Just thought it was an interesting sight to see that occur as the SOP was to just pull out the main fuse


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I did the same thing 3 times, however on my 4th time, when I move my bars to the right, the upper nacelle snaps open. I am sure it has to to with how the cables are running. Any chance you can relate how your cables are routed in the upper nacelle? For me, it seems the clutch cable raises up the main harness and cramps the plastic harness connector plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I did the same thing 3 times, however on my 4th time, when I move my bars to the right, the upper nacelle snaps open. I am sure it has to to with how the cables are running. Any chance you can relate how your cables are routed in the upper nacelle? For me, it seems the clutch cable raises up the main harness and cramps the plastic harness connector plate.
Throw up some pics to see what you’re dealing with. Is it the right or left side popping up? Take off your gauge cluster and snap a pic from over head to see what you have as well


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Judging by what I’m seeing I believe you’re getting tension on the right side (brake side). You still need to move the front brake cable to the outside of the ignition switch wiring harnesses.

Taking your photo here….



You still have the brake cable on the inside of the harnesses. You need to move it to the outside as I have it shown in my pics above. (sorry for delayed responses in middle of evening shift)


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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Looking at this one as well


Your clutch cable looks like it’s still attached to the riser? Assuming given how low it’s positioned. Make sure you have it coming up over the top of the riser clamp and it will exit out the side of the nacelle towards the front of the bar as I have showing


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