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Discussion Starter #1
My cruise control started only working in 6th gear. Bike is a 2012 FLTRU. It does not throw any trouble codes. Both sets of wheel bearings have been replaced with new harley encoder abs bearings with no other recent work done. Cruise did work after bearings were replaced.

Has anyone else had this happen and if so what was the faulty part or what was needed for repair?
 

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You'll need to run through the self diagnostic ladder and see if the scooter will tell you what's wrong.

Its in the cruise control section of the electrical diagnostic manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
6th gear only cruise control

I've already done that and nothing, even had the stealership look at it and they can't come up with a reason why either
 

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This really isn't related but when I got my 13 the clock didn't display in the speedo. Always had it on my 11 but I just figured HD decided to get rid of it for some reason. Fast forward 2 years and I was putting in a new amp and unplugged the main fuse. When I buttoned it back up I had the clock. I have no idea if pulling that fuse did the trick but maybe it's worth a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You know what, it's worth a try. A brother mentioned the same thing to me think I'll give it a try. I'll post results
 

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Reboot the bike, interesting, worth a shot. I would leave the fuse out for 10+ minutes before you plug it back in.
 

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on touring my'16 there is a procedure to test the cruise control, it might apply to yours.
try as follow:

IGN ON
press cruise to turn on orange light on instruments
IGN OFF
hold cruise SET switch ON while switching IGN ON

in diagnostic mode green light is on when these inputs are actuated
SET switch
RES switch
front brake
rear brake
twist grip in "cruise roll off"
clutch lever is pulled in

exit diagnostic switching IGN OFF

anyhow, the electrical manual for my'16 list as a cause for inoperative conditions "transmission is in too low of a gear or in neutral", so maybe you're fine.

I remember I used cruise in 5th sometimes, but not below that gear.

hope this can help
 

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on touring my'16 there is a procedure to test the cruise control, it might apply to yours.
try as follow:

IGN ON
press cruise to turn on orange light on instruments
IGN OFF
hold cruise SET switch ON while switching IGN ON

in diagnostic mode green light is on when these inputs are actuated
SET switch
RES switch
front brake
rear brake
twist grip in "cruise roll off"
clutch lever is pulled in

exit diagnostic switching IGN OFF

anyhow, the electrical manual for my'16 list as a cause for inoperative conditions "transmission is in too low of a gear or in neutral", so maybe you're fine.

I remember I used cruise in 5th sometimes, but not below that gear.

hope this can help
There is a diagnostics mode for 13' and older also. It is actually for all of the hand control switches. I can't remember if it was the same sequence as this but I did it on my 2012 once and it solved my cruise issue.
 

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I've already done that and nothing, even had the stealership look at it and they can't come up with a reason why either
Is everything stock on the scooter? Primary and final drive ratio changes can mess with the cruise. Electrical addons can mess with the serial data. And tall bars usually involve splices in the switch harnesses, which are always suspect.

Beyond that, the only way the scooter knows its in 6th is a calculation by the ecm. It basically counts rpm ticks and speed ticks then makes a comparison. If that result is within the 6th gear results window, the ecm grounds the 6th lamp to turn it on. If its enableing the cruise only when it enables the 6th lamp, it's suffering from a brain fart.

And since the cruise uses serial data, any sort of electrical add on can cause an issue by overlaying that particular signal.

Basically, pin 35 at the ecm enables the cruise, red w/green trace. After that the brakes, clutch, and bar switches can disable it via information passed back through the serial buss.

If I was going to suspect a bad buss signal on a 12, Id be looking at the clutch switch, they have a history of being wet. If the bars have been swapped out and wires spliced, then the splices to the bar switches would be suspect.

And Murphy's law says it will be a bad ecm, since that's the most expensive part.


To actually diagnose it on the shop floor would take some special tools beyond what the MoCo has. But you could do it on a dyno if you had an ecm breakout box.

At this point, pulling the main fuse is as good an idea as anything I can come up with. Wouldn't be the first time rebooting fixed a silicone malfunction.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No modifications to the drive ratio. I replaced the bars several years ago and there are no splices in the wiring. My cruise has always worked at 35 mph or higher since I've had the bike new this issue is recent. Have had no work done on the bike recent to this issue either. Ran it through the cruise diagnostics and everything shows it is functioning properly......soooo gonna try the main fuse and see what happens. Thank you for all the suggestions I'll keep y'all posted
 
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