Road Glide banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking ahead to what I'd like to do to the bike this winter for upgrades. Bike is on 06 roadglide. Currently has freeflowing air filter and VH Pro pipe on it. I'd like a bump in power and would plan to do the work myself. I'm thinking up the displacement to 95 or 97" and change out the stock cams for geardrive units if the runout allows. Currently 20k miles on bike.

I'm looking for advise on what brand of jugs/pistons or anything in particular to stay away from,

What will I need for special tools? Beyond access to hydraulic press, what specialty tools need to be purchased?

Advise on what cam setup to use, I do a lot of 2 up riding, neither of us is too heavy, I'm about 205, wife about 140, I do like a long road trip about once a year, absolutely must keep bike as reliable as stock. We will load up the tourpack and have tent, etc loaded up, that's when you really wished you had more power--

What are these cam/bore combos going to do to fuel economy? I don't ride to save money, but I sure do appreciate that the wife and I can put $15 in the tank and have a decent afternoons ride for that vs have a musclecar at 10mpg and premium fuel.

Compression ratio--Mr Hillside cycle often mentions bumping compression to 9.6:1 for Andrews 26 cams and maybe others with larger bores. Is 9.6:1 reaching a point where it will be hard on starter? How about if I stop for gas in the middle of nowhere and all that is available is 87 (or 85 at higher elevations) Currently I've been filling with 87 and have no issues, everyso often I put in 91 and don't feel or hear a difference.

Lastly, what might I be able to expect on a dyno with a 95/97", intake filter, pro pipe, and cams of the Andrews 21/26/37 range, or S&S 509/510 range? Is there any significant power gain from gear vs chain cams? How bout keeping stock compression or raising it to 9.6/9.8:1?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
You might consider looking into what was called the Hippo Build.

95" with 570 S&S cams, set compression to 9.8 ~ 10 to 1 compression. Drago's Dragula pipe and ask builder what size carb or throttlebody you need.

The build is Reliable, plenty of power and fun to ride.

If you search google you will many entries.

Personally despite the hub bub wouldn't go to a 98" don't like the thinness of the cylinders and the possibility of issues. 95" tried and true.

Recommend John Sach's to do your heads he does a ton of work with the S&S 570 cams.

Good Luck with your build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,432 Posts
I'm thinking ahead to what I'd like to do to the bike this winter for upgrades. Bike is on 06 roadglide. Currently has freeflowing air filter and VH Pro pipe on it. I'd like a bump in power and would plan to do the work myself. I'm thinking up the displacement to 95 or 97" and change out the stock cams for geardrive units if the runout allows. Currently 20k miles on bike.

I'm looking for advise on what brand of jugs/pistons or anything in particular to stay away from,

What will I need for special tools? Beyond access to hydraulic press, what specialty tools need to be purchased?

Advise on what cam setup to use, I do a lot of 2 up riding, neither of us is too heavy, I'm about 205, wife about 140, I do like a long road trip about once a year, absolutely must keep bike as reliable as stock. We will load up the tourpack and have tent, etc loaded up, that's when you really wished you had more power--

What are these cam/bore combos going to do to fuel economy? I don't ride to save money, but I sure do appreciate that the wife and I can put $15 in the tank and have a decent afternoons ride for that vs have a musclecar at 10mpg and premium fuel.

Compression ratio--Mr Hillside cycle often mentions bumping compression to 9.6:1 for Andrews 26 cams and maybe others with larger bores. Is 9.6:1 reaching a point where it will be hard on starter? How about if I stop for gas in the middle of nowhere and all that is available is 87 (or 85 at higher elevations) Currently I've been filling with 87 and have no issues, everyso often I put in 91 and don't feel or hear a difference.

Lastly, what might I be able to expect on a dyno with a 95/97", intake filter, pro pipe, and cams of the Andrews 21/26/37 range, or S&S 509/510 range? Is there any significant power gain from gear vs chain cams? How bout keeping stock compression or raising it to 9.6/9.8:1?

OEM cylinders are absolutely fine to bore to 98". 9.8-10.0 is where the 37 wants it, depending on the application.
Been boring HD cylinders here for over 2 1/2 decades and have been boring the OE T/C's to that bore dimension since 2006.
Can't remember the last time we bored to 95" (94.3" actually)
An S&S .510 won't have the "hit" off the bottom like either of the Andrews cam, or like a Wood 6 cam set @ 10.25, as live testing years ago here has proven.
R&R Cycle in Manchester, NH recently tuned a 98" of ours with an Andrews 37 @ 10.0 in a Dyna. 51mm HPI t.body, our famous Stage II Heads, and a Bassani pipe.
108/111 sae. Not the first time we've seen that.
Andrews Products wants a copy of that dyno report.
9.6 is right where an Andrews 26 wants to be for pump gas friendly running.:)
Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Top posting this, project got postponed.

Now looking for 95"/98" build ideas, really not much older twin cam on this site, even in the dyno pages. I really like the tabletop flat torque line that this one has:

The Perfect HD Twin Cam Street Engine

I'm thinking something like that will do. I did see a couple 95" builds with about 105 hp 110 tq, what does that take? I don't recall when the power comes on, likely higher rpm

What can I expect to happen to gas milage. Reason I ask is that theres times that I really appreciate the 180-200 mile range that I currently have. Some say it can improve because it isn't working so hard and running more efficiently but then again you gotta burn more fuel to make more power...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,432 Posts
Just built/tuned another 98"/Our Stage II Heads/Andrews 26G in a 2003 Classic, for a client in Syracuse, NY.
9.6 cr w/o compression releases.
97 hp, 109 ft/lbs right where a touring bike can take advantage of it.
Tame, smooth, tried and true combination. :)
(Bored and honed 9 sets of either 98", or 107" cylinders in the past week.)
Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,931 Posts
I agree with Scott on this one. Bore to 98", set compression somewhere between 10:2-1 to 10:5-1, you can make some very nice power with the Woods 6HG cam with some good domed pistons. No reason you can't make 110hp and upper teens in tq. Also some really good builds with flat top pistons that come in at 105-108 hp and mid teens in tq. Both very good builds and will ride out very good. I used the Dave Mackie hemispherical kit in my 04. It's been to Europe for two months and also to Alaska and back. Put a lot of road miles on it and is a fun bike to ride. Always got 38-41 mpg with no problem if you stayed out the throttle. The Woods starts pulling great at about 2700 rpm and all the way to redline. Just use a good set of lifters like the S&S Premiums as the Woods do have steep ramps but can be keep fairly quiet with adjustable push rods set right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
Top posting this, project got postponed.

Now looking for 95"/98" build ideas, really not much older twin cam on this site, even in the dyno pages. I really like the tabletop flat torque line that this one has:

The Perfect HD Twin Cam Street Engine

I'm thinking something like that will do. I did see a couple 95" builds with about 105 hp 110 tq, what does that take? I don't recall when the power comes on, likely higher rpm

What can I expect to happen to gas milage. Reason I ask is that theres times that I really appreciate the 180-200 mile range that I currently have. Some say it can improve because it isn't working so hard and running more efficiently but then again you gotta burn more fuel to make more power...

Some note able items to consider when you are taking into account considerations for the final result with the link you referenced.

1. that dyno is done in STD
2. The dyno it was run on runs Winpep6 which is about 10 percent higher than what it would read elsewhere on a 250i and Winpep7 or 8.

Despite all the hoopla of we done thousands etc I would not go to a 97/98 the walls get thin and can distort, you can have issues in the thrust areas as well as bluing etc. The document you reference speaks of reliablity as close to stock, why would you put a valve beating cam in the bike. You may want more, and you can get it with good combo and headwork and pipe and fuel delivery system and not have to go beyond 10 to 1 in compression. An example of that is the hippo build add to that good headwork and you have a reliable bike that exceeds the 100/100 without the issues/pms.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
88" upgrade to 95/97" and geardrive build recs and outcomes

This is not a 95 to 98 but same principal as this is 110-113.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
523 Posts
My 04 Electra glide was built by T-Man performance when it had 5k on it. He did the 95" kit with TR590 gear drive cams, 45mm mikuni, weisco pistons set at 10.5:1. And his stage 3 heads, S&S roller rockers. She ran like a wild cat and was very dependable. It has roughly 55k on it now without any issues ever. Dyno was 112hp/ 111 tq when he tuned it all in
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,083 Posts
My buddy did a 98" build on his 02 RK last year, with woods TW5G cams. Stock exhaust with Samson slip-ons, think he was 100hp & 116 TQ, runs real nice
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
521 Posts
Another Andrews 37 fan here. Ported the heads myself and had them shaved ten thous, mik45 carb, comp came out to about 9.8:1. bored out to a 98. I used a d and d fatcat and ended up with 97/103. Still have it and is a blast to drive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
98"

Getting a 98"/107" motor to make good dependable power is not as difficult as some would make you believe. It requires a good set of heads, the correct cam and a dyno tuner that can get the tune done properly. There are many cams available that can put the power right where you ride or need it. I like many others have been over boring the cylinders to 98, 107 or the 113 for many years and it is safe and reliable, and cost effective.. any questions just ask.. thanks dsv
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top