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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have Progressive Monotube shocks up front, and had those for a year with the stock air shocks in the rear. I had never noticed any rear end wobble while cornering. And I like to corner hard.

I installed the Progressive 444 12" shocks in the rear this spring. Now I get a ton of rear end wobble and feels like twisting of the frame while cornering. These shocks are also very stiff while riding solo with empty bags. I have them turned all the way out, and are still very stiff, and I made sure if didn't buy the heavy duty shocks.

So am I getting more frame twist due to having a better suspension? A more rigid suspension now puts all the pressure on the frame and geometry of the bike, vs. the shocks soaking up most of that when they were a lot more cush?

Or do I have a problem with my bike? Or did I install the shocks incorrectly? I followed the instructions, but they were not very good. It doesn't seem to be binding or anything like that.

Now I feel like I need to keep putting more stuff on the bike to get it to handle better, even though when I had the stock rear shocks, it handled great. The only reason I put the 444's on was I kept bottoming out on large bumps. I think I would rather have that than the corner twisting.

Any advice would be helpful as I like to ride hard and push the bike's cornering limits, but now I am a little more nervous to do so because I feel like it is going to go out from under me.

thanks.:D
 

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Grab an Alloy Art touring stabilizer to help keep the swing arm from moving laterally on hard high speed cornering. Personally I have never been happy with Progressive rear shocks and will never purchase them again. I run the Harley "Premium Ride" 13" rears but I much prefer a solid firmer feel on the road to that of the wallowing stock air shock which are absolutely insufficient for anyone that actually likes to ride twisty roads at any sort of speed.

I sell the AA stabilizer for $135 shipped so let me know if you need one. Simple install and makes a nice difference.


Drew
 

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Check the swing arm bolts for proper tightness also.
 
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12" shocks

By putting 12" shocks on with a stock length front end you have lowered the rear end 1". This changes the rake and trail of bike. The handling of bike will be affected. How much I don't know. My Road-King with 1" lowered rear end wobbled like hell at low speed (5mph and down). Put back to stock and all was well. Just something to consider.
 

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By putting 12" shocks on with a stock length front end you have lowered the rear end 1". This changes the rake and trail of bike. The handling of bike will be affected. How much I don't know. My Road-King with 1" lowered rear end wobbled like hell at low speed (5mph and down). Put back to stock and all was well. Just something to consider.

You do know a RG custom comes stock with 12" shocks right? He didn't lower the rear any. It's still stock height.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Correct, the custom comes lowered so that's not it. I've been looking at all these stabilizers. Wow, a lot to choose from with a wide price range and I'm not sure which one is the best, or even works.

Alloy Art shown above
Progressive has one
True Trak is one
Glide Pro actually changes the rear motor mounts. Seems like the others might be band aides where this one fixes the problem?

Not sure which way to go.
 

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Correct, the custom comes lowered so that's not it. I've been looking at all these stabilizers. Wow, a lot to choose from with a wide price range and I'm not sure which one is the best, or even works.



Alloy Art shown above

Progressive has one

True Trak is one

Glide Pro actually changes the rear motor mounts. Seems like the others might be band aides where this one fixes the problem?



Not sure which way to go.

All of the above may "fix" your symptoms, but your bike shouldn't be noticeably wobbling from just changing out the shocks in the manner you did. Something is NOT right.




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Correct, the custom comes lowered so that's not it. I've been looking at all these stabilizers. Wow, a lot to choose from with a wide price range and I'm not sure which one is the best, or even works.

Alloy Art shown above
Progressive has one
True Trak is one
Glide Pro actually changes the rear motor mounts. Seems like the others might be band aides where this one fixes the problem?

Not sure which way to go.
Of all of the systems that we offer designed to eliminate wobble(link below), the Glide Pro Stabilizing System is by far the best selling system that we offer. What I personally like about the Glide Pro System is that it completely replaces all of the components that are essentially the "source of the problem" so as you mention, it's a true "FIX" and not simply a patch. It's also important to note that while you will receive replacement front / rear motor mounts (depending on model year) with the Glide Pro System, you'll also receive a replacement pivot shaft that limits flex which when used in conjunction with the new motor mount(s) will help eliminate overall vibration....so much so that folks riding '08 & older models claim that the bike will be much smoother than when purchased brand new.

http://www.ironacesspeedshop.com/handling/

Hope this helps but certainly let us know if you have any other specific questions.

Good luck with your research!

Lindsey :0)

fyi...it's also worth mentioning that all the folks at Glide Pro are great people and Jake Ore, the owner, is truly one of the most helpful people in the industry. He has put together a lot of videos that will help answer almost any question you may have about not only the Stabilizing System but their replacement Motor Mounts. The link below will take you to all of the videos they have online.

http://glide-pro.com/media.html
 

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Check the stabilizer link that's welded to the left down tube and goes horizonaly to the right side of the front cylinder where it's bolted in.
For whatever reason, that bolt has loosened up and fallen out TWICE since I bought my 2013 RGC new. It gets real squirrelly real fast when that link loosens up. Might not be the problem but worth checking.
I also have 444s with the standard weight springs and they weren't what I was expecting. Super harsh ride. ( I ride solo and am damn skinny )
I talked to Frank at Progressive and explained what was happening and asked if there was a lighter weight spring that could be put on. He agreed to change the spring at no cost but I had to pay shipping to progressive.
The lighter springs helped , especially when I'm loaded up for a long trip but still not the ride I was expecting. They seem to be getting better as they get more miles on them. If I had to do it over I'd save a few hundred more dollars and go with better shocks.
Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just an update, after riding both two up for about 1200 miles, and then 1700 miles single up with gear, the shocks are doing very good. What I think I was experiencing is just cupped tires, and a little loose steering head. It seems to only happen when hitting large bumps while cornering. If the road is smooth, then I can corner as fast as I want with no rear steer. The shocks seem to be broke in now, and much better once I add a little weight to the bike.

So I am not going to add a stabilizer for now. I need new tires, and am going with Avons. Should be even better for cornering.

Thanks.>:)
 

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Just an update, after riding both two up for about 1200 miles, and then 1700 miles single up with gear, the shocks are doing very good. What I think I was experiencing is just cupped tires, and a little loose steering head. It seems to only happen when hitting large bumps while cornering. If the road is smooth, then I can corner as fast as I want with no rear steer. The shocks seem to be broke in now, and much better once I add a little weight to the bike.



So I am not going to add a stabilizer for now. I need new tires, and am going with Avons. Should be even better for cornering.



Thanks.>:)

Watch out for the Avon tires I put them on my bike I have a 21 front and the 17 rear and get a lot of flex and wobble from the rear tire. I spoke with the reps from renegade the wheel company at Sturgis and there answer was pump up the tire to 55lbs of air pressure the side walls can't hold the weight of the touring bikes that's what causes the wobble.


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