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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, I'm new to the forum. I am working on my 13 rg with a pro street stage 4 kit. It has the heavier clutch spring in it. I'm trying to get the clutch dialed in and I'm having a tough time compared to the new clutch in I put in on my 01 fxdx.
It feels like it pops into fully engaged at the end of the normal slipping while taking off so I took it to 0 on clutch pack side and cable side and started my adjustment all over. now it is just all at the end of the clutch lever and still pops in last second once you're rolling.
I'm heading to the dyno on Thursday and didn't want to tune a bike with a bad clutch. any input would be great.
thanks
 

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Hey, I'm new to the forum. I am working on my 13 rg with a pro street stage 4 kit. It has the heavier clutch spring in it. I'm trying to get the clutch dialed in and I'm having a tough time compared to the new clutch in I put in on my 01 fxdx.
It feels like it pops into fully engaged at the end of the normal slipping while taking off so I took it to 0 on clutch pack side and cable side and started my adjustment all over. now it is just all at the end of the clutch lever and still pops in last second once you're rolling.
I'm heading to the dyno on Thursday and didn't want to tune a bike with a bad clutch. any input would be great.
thanks
The manual says to seat the adjuster screw "slightly" I think this is where most have the problem. Watch for movement in the plates when you set the screw, I set the screw at the point of just touching the plates then back it out a 1/4 turn then lock the jam nut down. I set the gap between the ferrule and the perch at 1/8 inch. The cable adjustment is where you have some wiggle room to adjust the lever engagement. Remember all clutch adjustments should be done on a completely cold bike.
 

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ok, I took the clutch cable adjustment to 0 when I did this. Also I did more of a 1/2 turn if not a shade over. I noticed on a test ride its almost impossible to get into neutral.... frustratingly hard !
 

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ok, I took the clutch cable adjustment to 0 when I did this. Also I did more of a 1/2 turn if not a shade over. I noticed on a test ride its almost impossible to get into neutral.... frustratingly hard !
Redo the adjustment completely and try backing out the adjuster screw 1/4 turn. Also what type of fluid do you have in the transmission? I prefer 75w-90 gear oil as opposed to motor oil.
 

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Loosen the cable adjustment until the lever almost hits the grips. Now back of the jam nut on the clutch pack adjustment. Now use the allen wrench and loosen the adjustment shaft a half a turn, now as you turn it back tight, work the clutch lever a little making sure the clutch plates and ramp and ball are settled in. Now, run the rod until it touches solid and go back and forth a couple of times seating everything in. Next run it in until it barely moves the clutch plates and back off a 1/4 turn. While holding it, tighten the jam nut. Now adjust the cable until when you work the lever, and when you release the lever, tug on the clutch cable. When it is set correctly, you should be able to get about a dimes width between the clutch ferrel and the lever housing. Lock the adjustment down and you are set.

EDIT: If you are not running primary specific oil like Bel-Ray or Redline, drain the oil and change it to one of these. If the clutch plates are good, this should fix you up.
 
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