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After a hot day freeway run/pull to side and shut off, Will only start in "limp mode"

I've got a 2011 RG Special set up like an Ultra. V&H and True Duals/SE air cleaner and Dynojet Power Vision. On a 100 degree day and an 85 degree day and after an extended 80 MPH freeway run, we pulled over to check map/clear face shield. Both times, my bike would only restart in limp mode. After 15 min wait on hottest day and 10 wait on cooler day, it re lit good as ever. All the other bikes on the ride had no issue. Obviously, there is a heat sensor that is tripping early/electronic box set too low. Where is there info on beating this problem into submission? Thanks!
 

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I've got a 2011 RG Special set up like an Ultra. V&H and True Duals/SE air cleaner and Dynojet Power Vision. On a 100 degree day and an 85 degree day and after an extended 80 MPH freeway run, we pulled over to check map/clear face shield. Both times, my bike would only restart in limp mode. After 15 min wait on hottest day and 10 wait on cooler day, it re lit good as ever. All the other bikes on the ride had no issue. Obviously, there is a heat sensor that is tripping early/electronic box set too low. Where is there info on beating this problem into submission? Thanks!
Its for sure limp mode and not engine temp management?

Any codes stored?

There have been reports of that issue with limp mode from bad connections in the induction connector and from bad grip sensor connections. And there will be a bunch of codes.

Without codes, then I would suspect the engine temperature sensor which is another issue the 9-12's can suffer from. That usually sets no codes, but often causes cold start issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Its for sure limp mode and not engine temp management?

Any codes stored?

There have been reports of that issue with limp mode from bad connections in the induction connector and from bad grip sensor connections. And there will be a bunch of codes.

Without codes, then I would suspect the engine temperature sensor which is another issue the 9-12's can suffer from. That usually sets no codes, but often causes cold start issues.

Here's what I got;

P1511 Power Management Node

p2101 EFI Motor Circuit Range Performance

S None P None

T U1016 Loss ECM Serial Data

First few seconds it seemed to run on one. Opened the throttle and I got two. Seems like Engine temp management. Regardless of throttle position, I got 2k max and it walked flat or uphill at same speed; Seems like Limp Home Mode.

I paddled and lane split this bike from Studio City to Coronado in 100 degree weather and ra it hard on Central Valley Freeways with no issue. But I gassed and Gatoraded when I stopped so it had 10 -15 minutes to cool. Freeway to shoulder and restart in 3-4 minutes is an issue.

Thanks for what ya got for me.
 

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There were several around that tear model that had an issue with the connector pins at the induction connector. My 2010 had the issue and there was even a recall on it. My 2010 had the issue and was fixed under warranty.
 

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There were several around that tear model that had an issue with the connector pins at the induction connector. My 2010 had the issue and there was even a recall on it. My 2010 had the issue and was fixed under warranty.
I looked it up on another thread and went down to the bike. Could NOT get the latch to click no matter where or how hard I pushed. Gently squeezed and eased the connector apart, and cleaned the contacts. I slid it back together; "CLICK". DAMN.... I squeezed the latch; "CLICK" and slid it apart. I made it and broke it a coupla more times each with a "CLICK".

It may have been not latched and the heat of a highway run and quick stop and shut down at maximum heat with the connector tight next to the cylinder may have been the problem. We'll see.
 

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p2101 can be set by the throttle body connector having a poor connection.

Get some contact cleaner spray and clean both sides of the connector. CRC Lectra-Motive is great. Then either bow or twist the male pins just a little, so they make better contact, and grease it up with dielectric grease. Then reconnect. Clear the codes and cycle the switch on and off three time with the bar switch remaining on, waiting 20 seconds after each movement of the switch. So the ECM can recalibrate with the throttle body.

You could still have a bad sensor, or broken blade drive in the throttle body. But most often the issue is the connector.

The 1511 just tells you it was in a commanded reduced power state, or Limp Mode.

U1016 is telling you that the ecm lost its ability to communicate its state over the serial buss. Hopefully that is related to the other issue, as it is not user friendly for diagnostics. Breakout box is required to run the diagnostic ladder on it.
 

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The wires at the bend going to the plug have been known to break and still look good. Personal experience.
 

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I've got a 2011 RG Special set up like an Ultra. V&H and True Duals/SE air cleaner and Dynojet Power Vision. On a 100 degree day and an 85 degree day and after an extended 80 MPH freeway run, we pulled over to check map/clear face shield. Both times, my bike would only restart in limp mode. After 15 min wait on hottest day and 10 wait on cooler day, it re lit good as ever. All the other bikes on the ride had no issue. Obviously, there is a heat sensor that is tripping early/electronic box set too low. Where is there info on beating this problem into submission? Thanks!
Heat related connection failures suggest a broken or marginally connected wire.
Copper has a large coefficient of thermal expansion, heating and cooling changes its length which contributes to cyclic stress fatigue.
Kinks are more susceptible. The Mo Co uses the LEAST amount of copper in wires and the shortest length they can get away with to lower costs. Small gauge wires also heat up more with the same current flow more than larger gauge wires.

The connector is vulnerable. Breaker and Relay plugs are vulnerable.

One thing about early fly by wire throttle is - there are two Throttle Grip Position signals that vary ( 1 vdc to 5 vdc and the other 5 vdc to 1 vdc from 0% to 100% WOT ).
If pre-start you roll the throttle grip forward, the code for out of range throttle position will set and you will be in limp mode until the next three cycles of the ignition switch (OFF / ON).
Some people set this code inadvertently when pushing a bike in the garage.
Now ye know.
Sin no more.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
One thing about early fly by wire throttle is - there are two Throttle Grip Position signals that vary ( 1 vdc to 5 vdc and the other 5 vdc to 1 vdc from 0% to 100% WOT ).
If pre-start you roll the throttle grip forward, the code for out of range throttle position will set and you will be in limp mode until the next three cycles of the ignition switch (OFF / ON).
Some people set this code inadvertently when pushing a bike in the garage.
Now ye know.
Sin no more.

VERY useful. Thanks and Thank You for everyone else who's chimed in so far..
 

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My mechanic is merciful

Called him up, explained that I damn near dropped my bike pulling it out of the garage - bike won't go over 20 mph.
He had me cycle the ignition switch three times.
Voila.
 
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