[paid4c4]

Here is a link to their website;
https://aim-tamachi.com/collections/light-force-slave-cylinder
Bill

 

[JakeC7R]

Follow Up From AIM RE New Product

Hi All, I asked the folks at AIM about the changes to the new model due out this month. Here is the response I got, posting with their permission. He also talks about the throw being adequate.I thought you guys would be interested in this...

That is awesome to hear that many are happy with this new product. As for the revision is concerned the performance has not been changed. Still functions same as the first version. Only difference being the clutch line inlet onto the cylinder has been matched with stock so the installation of the line will be a lot more simpler than before. Many have loosened the clutch line bracket to give some slack and pulled the clutch line or have slightly shaped the line to match the version 1 to fit but now all of that should not be necessary. In addition, we’ve done some testing as well with the 2019 bikes that is now equipped with a thicker seat/damper spring and an extra clutch plate. Our light force does indeed have the necessary push rod throw to properly disengage and engage the clutch. The throw is all but slightly shorter than stock but with Harley’s conservative specifications ours exceed the minimum travel needed for proper and smooth clutch operation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z28JC0NHEWo

If you have any other questions in regards to the LF please let me know.

Best regards,

Alex

 

[enddav]

Its seems like this AIM Light force should be simple. I have the new version.

I got it installed pretty easy (2018 RGU), hardest part was moving the exhaust enough to get the pretty cover off.

So I cant seem to get it to actuate the clutch. (being doubtful, I just put in gear, engine off and try to move the bike, clutch pulled or not, it tries to turn the engine over)

I've bled this thing 20+ times. Got some bubbles near the start and one more time when I let the reservoir get a little too low. Other than that, Ive pumped about 6 oz of brake fluid through this thing.

I still get no friction point, the clutch lever just has no difference in pull from full open to full pulled.

I talked with AIM tech support and all they can say is probably a bleeding issue. So I did some more bleeding (I am using the method in the service manual), no joy.

Ill call AIM back tomorrow (gotta walk away for awhile), but just wondering or maybe just venting. Im thinking Im going to have to put the stock one back on just to prove its not me (or is me if that fails also).

I feel better already, in the 70's again tomorrow, Ill feel bad if Im still messing with this.

Thanks for listening. Willing to take any suggestions or abuse if it helps me get back on the road.

 

[RGKen]

Its seems like this AIM Light force should be simple. I have the new version.

I got it installed pretty easy (2018 RGU), hardest part was moving the exhaust enough to get the pretty cover off.

So I cant seem to get it to actuate the clutch. (being doubtful, I just put in gear, engine off and try to move the bike, clutch pulled or not, it tries to turn the engine over)

I've bled this thing 20+ times. Got some bubbles near the start and one more time when I let the reservoir get a little too low. Other than that, Ive pumped about 6 oz of brake fluid through this thing.

I still get no friction point, the clutch lever just has no difference in pull from full open to full pulled.

I talked with AIM tech support and all they can say is probably a bleeding issue. So I did some more bleeding (I am using the method in the service manual), no joy.

Ill call AIM back tomorrow (gotta walk away for awhile), but just wondering or maybe just venting. Im thinking Im going to have to put the stock one back on just to prove its not me (or is me if that fails also).

I feel better already, in the 70's again tomorrow, Ill feel bad if Im still messing with this.

Thanks for listening. Willing to take any suggestions or abuse if it helps me get back on the road.

If you are testing to see if the bike will roll in gear with the bike off you won't be able to tell that way. The clutch plates will stick together in what they call oil lock. You need to start the bike and the plates will break free then when they are all loose and warmed up you should be able to roll the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in and the bike off.

 

[RGKen]

Also the feel you are describing with the clutch lever is how mine feels. The difference in pull is reduced enough to where it makes you think something is wrong.

When you go to start the bike I would leave it in a sturdy wheel chock or at least have the bike pointed in a safe direction when you go to pull in the clutch and put it in gear for the first time just in case there is a bleeding issue. My guess is that you are fine but better safe than sorry.

 

[enddav]

If you are testing to see if the bike will roll in gear with the bike off you won't be able to tell that way. The clutch plates will stick together in what they call oil lock. You need to start the bike and the plates will break free then when they are all loose and warmed up you should be able to roll the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in and the bike off.

Never thought about that. It has been sitting for a few days. Sounds like test #1.

Also the feel you are describing with the clutch lever is how mine feels. The difference in pull is reduced enough to where it makes you think something is wrong.

When you go to start the bike I would leave it in a sturdy wheel chock or at least have the bike pointed in a safe direction when you go to pull in the clutch and put it in gear for the first time just in case there is a bleeding issue. My guess is that you are fine but better safe than sorry.

Ok, good to know.

If test one works out, I guess Ill point it in a safe direction and be brave before I take it apart again.

Appreciate the quick replies. And if thats how the clutch is going to feel, OMG what an easy pull.

 

[RGKen]

AIM Light Force Review & Tips

Never thought about that. It has been sitting for a few days. Sounds like test #1.







Ok, good to know.



If test one works out, I guess Ill point it in a safe direction and be brave before I take it apart again.



Appreciate the quick replies. And if thats how the clutch is going to feel, OMG what an easy pull.

Just to be clear, test one would be to start the bike in neutral, hold the front brake firmly, pull in clutch with bike pointed in a safe direction or secured in a good chock, then put it in gear (I would pullup into 2nd) if the bike doesn't creep on you ease out the clutch until you feel the friction zone. it does creep or lunge when you put it into gear then shut the bike off and try and re-bleed.



If all is working well take it for a test ride and enjoy the new easy pull clutch! Good luck

 

[Buzzy]

I've heard of people bleeding the front brake on older bikes from the bleed valve to the master cylinder to push the bubbles up. Does that apply here?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[RGKen]

I've heard of people bleeding the front brake on older bikes from the bleed valve to the master cylinder to push the bubbles up. Does that apply here?

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Absolutely. I use a large syringe I bought at Harbor Freight that comes with a long section of the clear bleeder hose. Empty the reservoir first, fill the syringe with your fluid, connect the hose to the bleed valve with the wrench already attached, crack the valve open and then push the fluid into the system. You may still want to check using the conventional method but you won't have to pump it through near as much as you would starting that way. Pushing the fluid through from the bottom is by far the easiest way I found.

My guess is still that he is good and that it's the new slave cylinder that is making him think something is wrong. I feel this way because I went through the exact same thing he is. My bike had sat for more than a week, and when I thought I had it bled properly I could not roll the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in. I knew about oil lock but had forgotten all about it and it caused me a lot of extra work. I even called Smarty and when I told him what I did he quickly reminded me about the clutch plates and the oil lock possibility. I felt pretty dumb but I'm getting old so it didn't last long. Lol!

 

[Stoic Joker]

When I converted my 10 to a hydraulic clutch I wasn't sure what the pull was supposed to be, so I opened the derby cover to see if the pressure plate was moving appropriately before trying one of the more (poke into gear and hope) dramatic results tests.

 

[RGKen]

When I converted my 10 to a hydraulic clutch I wasn't sure what the pull was supposed to be, so I opened the derby cover to see if the pressure plate was moving appropriately before trying one of the more (poke into gear and hope) dramatic results tests.

I also did that and put a dial caliper on it to see if it was in spec and it wasn't but it was moving. After I started the bike and put it in gear, I found that all was actually good I remeasured the pressure plate movement and now it was in spec. The clutch plates were sticking together and once you get them to separate it makes all the difference in the world.

Also, the poke in gear hope test really isn't that dramatic. I guess that depends on who you are and what you actually expect from it though so it could be for some I suppose.

 

[Stoic Joker]

Also, the poke in gear hope test really isn't that dramatic.

I know - just having a spot of fun with it.

I guess that depends on who you are and what you actually expect from it though so it could be for some I suppose.

Yes, especially if someone misjudges the objective of the test and blips the throttle...:surprise:

 

[RGKen]

I know - just having a spot of fun with it.

Yes, especially if someone misjudges the objective of the test and blips the throttle...:surprise:

But then they've just taught themselves how to do a burnout. [emoji12]




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[RGKen]

@enddav - In all seriousness, if you don't feel comfortable trying what I suggested don't try it. Just because I went through very much what you have described doesn't mean you have the same issue so please proceed with only what you feel you can. Please let us know what you figure out.

 

[enddav]

@enddav - In all seriousness, if you don't feel comfortable trying what I suggested don't try it. Just because I went through very much what you have described doesn't mean you have the same issue so please proceed with only what you feel you can. Please let us know what you figure out.

RGKen, I am totally comfortable with your plan. I should be getting to it this afternoon and will provide results.
My indecision right now is if Im confident enough to put it all back together, because Im not sure I should run with the exhaust loose. I'm leaning toward full reassembly before start up, leaning toward confidence:smile:
Thanks.

 

[RGKen]

RGKen, I am totally comfortable with your plan. I should be getting to it this afternoon and will provide results.

My indecision right now is if Im confident enough to put it all back together, because Im not sure I should run with the exhaust loose. I'm leaning toward full reassembly before start up, leaning toward confidence:smile:

Thanks.

You should be able to put it all back together and if for some reason you need to re-bleed just loosen the exhaust enough to take that side cover off. I would NOT run it with the exhaust loose.

***I also forgot to say, take the derby cover off first like Stoic was talking about and see if you are getting movement at the clutch pack. If so I bet you're good to go.




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[enddav]

You should be able to put it all back together and if for some reason you need to re-bleed just loosen the exhaust enough to take that side cover off. I would NOT run it with the exhaust loose.

***I also forgot to say, take the derby cover off first like Stoic was talking about and see if you are getting movement at the clutch pack. If so I bet you're good to go.




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Well, I was going to pull the derby cover frst (thought about that yesterday), but decided to just button it up and be hopeful. Bad decision.

Bad news, FAILED. (should have done the derby cover LOL)

Gotta let it cool down and Im going to go through the whole thing again (remove the AIM and inspect and reinstall-rebleed etc)

Thanks everyone. Good thing Im not working, so I have plenty of time to screw around with this stuff.

 

[RGKen]

Well, I was going to pull the derby cover frst (thought about that yesterday), but decided to just button it up and be hopeful. Bad decision.

Bad news, FAILED. (should have done the derby cover LOL)

Gotta let it cool down and Im going to go through the whole thing again (remove the AIM and inspect and reinstall-rebleed etc)

Thanks everyone. Good thing Im not working, so I have plenty of time to screw around with this stuff.

Well I lost that bet.....

Go get you a syringe from the parts store or harbor freight and push the fluid through from the bottom up when you re-install. Speeds up the bleeding process. After that and you still can't get it I don't know what to say. Wish I was close enough to come help you out.

 

[enddav]

Success.
I ordered a couple syringes on Amazon (one for suctioning out the master, one for pushing in at the slave)

Pushed through almost 150ml of fluid (crazy amount:surprise and checked the clutch movement (inspected behind derby cover).... none.

So I went to refill the syringe and noticed some air had entered the tube, while it was still attached. Should not be there, that was the clue.

Then I remembered that the AIM bleeder was a little smaller than OEM, well that slight difference was apparently the problem. (they even mention in their instructions that you must use their bleeder because its a different size) I bought some 3/16"ID tubing to replace the 1/4"ID I was using. It was difficult to get the 3/16" on the valve to stay, but once I did, it was tight. I went through the whole process one more time and checked for clutch movement and SUCCESS.

So everyone here probably knows the right size tubing to use, but I didn't and this was probably my issue all along. So Ill say it here and maybe some other hydraulic neophyte will have an easier time with it, use 3/16" ID on the AIM Light Force v2. And definitely use the Reverse bleeding method.

Ive tested it running, in gear, in the garage, and there is no drag (my test is running in 1st gear, with clutch pulled and roll the bike backwards without any more effort than when in neutral).

I do have to get used to the friction point being about 1 inch from the grip. Its amazing how muscle memory tells my hand the bike wont start moving until I release the lever a couple inches.... have to relearn that:grin: It should stop raining in the next day or two and I can road test and learn the new feel.

I want to thank y'all for the guidance and encouragement, heck RGKen even PM'd me his phone number if I needed to talk through it.

 

[enddav]

Ok, I know you guys are getting tired of me posting on this.

But,
The sun came out and I got to take my test ride. O.M.G. This thing beat all my expectations.

Feels like a clutch should feel. Less effort, definitely better control due to longer engagement zone. I now feel that Im getting the feel of the 'smooth new 6 speed trans' rather than the clunky shifting if you didnt hit it just right with the minuscule friction zone of the OEM slave. Every shift is easy and smooooth.

Yeah, $280, and yeah, I spent more time than I should have installing it, but absolutely worth it.
:grin::grin::grin: