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I run a standard HD Stage 1 intake with the stock cover. They will all utilize a K&N filter or one of a different company that will mimic a K&N. All you need to do is figure out what style you want and go from there.
Yep. No oiler nothing fancy. no oil blowing anywhere and stock cover. Did replace the 114 letters with the screaming eagle logo. Just forgot to tell them to leave the 114 tag
 

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Another for the Arlen Ness Big Sucker. The reservoir, the priceand stock look what got me. It was easy to install, performs great and cleans up the bike imo. Good luck with your decision.


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Another for the Arlen Ness Big Sucker. The reservoir, the priceand stock look what got me. It was easy to install, performs great and cleans up the bike imo. Good luck with your decision.


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interesting that is what the screaming eagle high flow wedge looks like
 

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interesting that is what the screaming eagle high flow wedge looks like
I looked at that one, liked the look for the same reason I liked Mr. Ness’s intake. The screaming eagle is more expensive, had the hose oil vent thing going on and no reservoir for the oil. I previous had the stealer tell me I had a head leak from the oil coming from the vent tubes. BS fixed it and was less expensive (and made in the USA unlike a lot of our China built Harley things).


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I'll second the Nessie Big Sucker. I like the way it fits under the stock cover, so only the really tuned in people know its there.


View attachment 419348

But still has lots of surface for air flow.

View attachment 419349

Don't really need the oil catchment, I modified mine to vent to the ground.

View attachment 419350
Hello, I love your air cleaner setup, what did you do with to the breather bolts to route the oil to the fittings before it enters inside the cleaner?
TIA.
 

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Hello, I love your air cleaner setup, what did you do with to the breather bolts to route the oil to the fittings before it enters inside the cleaner?
TIA.
I filled the passages from the stand offs to the suck hole in the backing plate with epoxy. Then drilled the stands and inserted barbed nipples, interference fit with some epoxy to make sure they stay put.

This is a twin cam backing plate, but it shows the barbed fittings well.

419496


This is a Ness M8 plate set up with bottom taps, but you can see where the passages are that need to be filled with epoxy.


419497


If your backing plate bolts have hoses on them like oem, you can drill the back of the plate behind the existing tee, and run the hose out through the hole.
419498
 

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Thank you..That is a great design. I was very reluctant to put anything in with the vacuum of the intake.
 

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I just had a friend pick up an arlen ness oil filter and backing plate. What happens if you don't drill the stands? I thought the ness had hard or rubber tubes that vented back into the throttle body so there was no oil blow back?

This is a pic of the one Im getting.

419524

I filled the passages from the stand offs to the suck hole in the backing plate with epoxy. Then drilled the stands and inserted barbed nipples, interference fit with some epoxy to make sure they stay put.

This is a twin cam backing plate, but it shows the barbed fittings well.

View attachment 419496

This is a Ness M8 plate set up with bottom taps, but you can see where the passages are that need to be filled with epoxy.


View attachment 419497

If your backing plate bolts have hoses on them like oem, you can drill the back of the plate behind the existing tee, and run the hose out through the hole.
View attachment 419498
 

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+1 for the S&S Stealth. I love the classic tear drop shape! Crappy resolution pic included below. I had mine cerakoted gray. I did install a custom catch can to bypass the air cleaner entirely to prevent oil dripping out of the bottom of the air cleaner filter media.

+1 for the Arlen Ness Big Sucker right outta the box! I actually bought this for exactly that reason - well engineered solution to the oil drip! I only removed the Arlen Ness to go more old skool on the look and I wanted more airflow capacity to allow less vacuum pressure across the filter media. My goal was to create as little vacuum effect as possible on each square inch of media to lessen the possibility of particles being pulled into the engine. There are even better filters than the S&S for filter surface area.....I'm admittedly a bit vain in that I love the classis S&S air cleaner! The 'Big Sucker' by Arlen Ness is a great solution tho! Oil drip control + rain shielding since you retain the stock cover.

View attachment 419351
On the S&S stealth, where did you run the tube and mount the catch can? I’m planning to install the external breather and looking for ideas on where to mount the catch can.

Thanks


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I made a homemade catch can from home improvement store stuff. Common for me if you know me!
  • 1.5" diameter black PVC pipe cut to 4.5" long
  • 1.5" diameter black PVC top cap drilled & tapped for a 3/16" pipe nipple (input from breather)
  • 1.5" diameter PVC cleanout plug at the bottom.
  • At ~1.5" down, drilled & tapped for a 1/4" pipe nipple (drain from catch can)
  • 1.5" pipe clamp with two black socket had cap screw (allen heads) for appearance.
  • Black plastidip for the pipe clamp for appearance
  • I threaded & tapped the frame for a 5/16" x 1/4" (3/8"?) bolt (if I remember right) and placed the bolt through the back of the frame and then threaded the pipe clamp onto the bolt to hang the catch can onto the frame. The pipe clamp mounting thread will dictate the frame bolt size and I 'think' it was 5/16".......very short so the bolt threads don't interfere with the catch can and poke a hole into the catch can.

419594


419589


419590


I used the cleanout plug to seal the bottom of the can. I use some makeup wipes from my wife or cotton balls to act as an absorbent inside the can itself. That's why the drain is so high....to allow the cotton to absorb the blow by for an easy, cheap solution to any oil drip or smells escaping. I use 1/4" on the drain side to ensure the escaping pressure will always be higher than the input pressure of the engine blow by pressure coming out of the head breathers.

Ran the drain along the frame and secured with cable ties. I thought this out and tried two different versions. I wanted the high drain & resultant loop to help as an extra oil catch safety margin to prevent oil drip below the bike. Not needed at all. I was changing the cotton balls after every ride to check for oil blow by and prevent any possibility of smell or drippage.........nothing, nada! The amount of blow by is so minimal I only check every month or so now and still.....nearly nothing on the cotton and no drip. I even checked my breather lines by blowing light compressed air through the lines into the catch can to make certain there wasn't a clog! Clean - no problems. I still blow out my breather lines on occasion as an extra safety margin, maybe every two months. I'm OCD however.
419591


I used my stock breather bolts in place of the S&S breather bolts. I ran the two separate breather lines into a 3/16" 'T' fitting to make the single 3/16" catch can input line. I filed a relief notch into the S&S Stealth air cleaner at the front to allow clean clearance for the front side breather line. I loosely stuffed the 3/16" catch can input line under the fuel tank and routed to the catch can.

419592


419593



This should get you going or at least allow you to consider this as a solution if you choose. Super cheap, reliable as a hammer with no smells or oil drip. I did get some burned oil smell so there was obviously more vaporization of that particular oil. [edit] = I did get some burned oil smell from a different oil brand I tried during one oil change so there was obviously more vaporization of that particular oil. However; not since that time.

Lemme know if you have any questions should you go this route. I can detail more if needed.
 

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Way a catch can?

Something wrong with just running the hose on down the frame beside the fuel drain and letting it vent to the ground?
 

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Way a catch can?

Something wrong with just running the hose on down the frame beside the fuel drain and letting it vent to the ground?
I have it that way and my garage floor has marks now... and yes I keep forgetting to put some cardboard down to catch it... lol

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I have it that way and my garage floor has marks now... and yes I keep forgetting to put some cardboard down to catch it... lol

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Jest spill some drops of urethane furniture finish on the floor, it'll look like drops from an oil leak every time you notice them. Ask me how I know.
 

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I made a homemade catch can from home improvement store stuff. Common for me if you know me!
  • 1.5" diameter black PVC pipe cut to 4.5" long
  • 1.5" diameter black PVC top cap drilled & tapped for a 3/16" pipe nipple (input from breather)
  • 1.5" diameter PVC cleanout plug at the bottom.
  • At ~1.5" down, drilled & tapped for a 1/4" pipe nipple (drain from catch can)
  • 1.5" pipe clamp with two black socket had cap screw (allen heads) for appearance.
  • Black plastidip for the pipe clamp for appearance
  • I threaded & tapped the frame for a 5/16" x 1/4" (3/8"?) bolt (if I remember right) and placed the bolt through the back of the frame and then threaded the pipe clamp onto the bolt to hang the catch can onto the frame. The pipe clamp mounting thread will dictate the frame bolt size and I 'think' it was 5/16".......very short so the bolt threads don't interfere with the catch can and poke a hole into the catch can.

View attachment 419594

View attachment 419589

View attachment 419590

I used the cleanout plug to seal the bottom of the can. I use some makeup wipes from my wife or cotton balls to act as an absorbent inside the can itself. That's why the drain is so high....to allow the cotton to absorb the blow by for an easy, cheap solution to any oil drip or smells escaping. I use 1/4" on the drain side to ensure the escaping pressure will always be higher than the input pressure of the engine blow by pressure coming out of the head breathers.

Ran the drain along the frame and secured with cable ties. I thought this out and tried two different versions. I wanted the high drain & resultant loop to help as an extra oil catch safety margin to prevent oil drip below the bike. Not needed at all. I was changing the cotton balls after every ride to check for oil blow by and prevent any possibility of smell or drippage.........nothing, nada! The amount of blow by is so minimal I only check every month or so now and still.....nearly nothing on the cotton and no drip. I even checked my breather lines by blowing light compressed air through the lines into the catch can to make certain there wasn't a clog! Clean - no problems. I still blow out my breather lines on occasion as an extra safety margin, maybe every two months. I'm OCD however.
View attachment 419591

I used my stock breather bolts in place of the S&S breather bolts. I ran the two separate breather lines into a 3/16" 'T' fitting to make the single 3/16" catch can input line. I filed a relief notch into the S&S Stealth air cleaner at the front to allow clean clearance for the front side breather line. I loosely stuffed the 3/16" catch can input line under the fuel tank and routed to the catch can.

View attachment 419592

View attachment 419593


This should get you going or at least allow you to consider this as a solution if you choose. Super cheap, reliable as a hammer with no smells or oil drip. I did get some burned oil smell so there was obviously more vaporization of that particular oil.

Lemme know if you have any questions should you go this route. I can detail more if needed.
Dan,

Thanks for the detailed write up of how you made your Catch Can and routing of the hose. I just ordered the DK Customs External breather kit with Catch Can and was trying to figure out where to run the hose and mount. Now I wish I had delayed my purchase and just built my own like you did.
 
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