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Discussion Starter #1
I posted about getting a 92 tour glide and it was mentioned that I would probably have the handlebars that double as a air reservoir to be able to put air in the frontend to help keep from diving when braking. I couldn't find anything on this site solving the issue of replacing the handlebars. So far from what I can find is that I can just eliminate the air all together and keep the frontend the same, or add stiffer springs from progressive. I guess I could have a mini air reservoir built to keep air, or use part #42475-97(air manifold assembly from later models). Some even say that you could just add Schrader valves to the fork caps. Does anyone have any experience with this and what's the best way to go? I want to be able to change the handlebars and be able to make the bike still handle good.
 

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IIRC only the FXR's ran air to the handlebars, the FL's ran the air into the front crashbar.
 

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IIRC only the FXR's ran air to the handlebars, the FL's ran the air into the front crashbar.
Not correct. My 93 FLHS had the bars as the reservoir. I think some older FL's used the crash bar but I know in 93 it was the bars. I don't think just running a valve would in your bars would work because the whole bar is the reservoir. I could be wrong. I just got some progressive springs and pulled all the air stuff out of mine. and put some new bars on. I lowerd the front an inch when I did it. It is not that hard or ecpensive to do. I had the spring put in the fork tubes shop. They didn't charge me much for that.
 

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Not correct. My 93 FLHS had the bars as the reservoir. I think some older FL's used the crash bar but I know in 93 it was the bars. I don't think just running a valve would in your bars would work because the whole bar is the reservoir. I could be wrong. I just got some progressive springs and pulled all the air stuff out of mine. and put some new bars on. I lowerd the front an inch when I did it. It is not that hard or ecpensive to do. I had the spring put in the fork tubes shop. They didn't charge me much for that.

Interesting.. For the (anti-dive) air delete I converted my 81, and my brother's 85 to the 2000 up style forks so we could use the late model 4 piston Brembo calipers (because the 80's brakes were horrible). Between swapmeets and eBay it took around $650 to get the complete forks, calipers, lines, and rotors to do the conversion on each bike.


I went with the late model handlebar controls and master cylinder, so the brakes on my 81 are extremely touchy ... But I like it that way.


My brother stayed with the 80's era stock master cylinder and his are a good bit more gentle about clamping down, but still work wonderfully.


The late model stock forks are a tad stiff, but handle great on the early model frame.
 

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I think it rides fine. I don't ride the bike a bunch anymore but doesn't seem to ride bad. I put the low end progessive shocks on the rear also. I have thought about updating the hand controls also but not real sure how hard it would be. Did you have to change wiring harness also?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think it rides fine. I don't ride the bike a bunch anymore but doesn't seem to ride bad. I put the low end progessive shocks on the rear also. I have thought about updating the hand controls also but not real sure how hard it would be. Did you have to change wiring harness also?
Thanks. I'm reaching out to progressive to get their recommendation on the standard or heavy duty. I'm assuming your question is for stoic joker. I'll post more info as I move forward with the springs, but it'll probably be after August.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
From progressive...."You would get the std. duty fs kit. You can run without air, or use a little bit."
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I talked to Traxxion Dynamics and they said there Harley front fork springs($120) would work great and eliminate the need for air. He said they have a better kit, AK-20 Axxion Cartridge Kit, that would really improve the front end but didn't have specs on it for an older bike. The AK-20 Axxion Cartridge Kit will fit 2000 models and newer, anything else older they would need to see in person. Anyways, just passing on some info that hopefully helps y'all out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Racetech suggested FLEKS3810($190?) which includes springs and emulator. I asked how the emulator works and they basically said it makes the ride smoother and more predictable. I don't know anything about this kinda stuff, so maybe someone can chime in on whether or not it's worth it to get emulators? If you just want racetech springs, FRSPS3234100($101?).
 

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I think it rides fine. I don't ride the bike a bunch anymore but doesn't seem to ride bad. I put the low end progessive shocks on the rear also. I have thought about updating the hand controls also but not real sure how hard it would be. Did you have to change wiring harness also?

Sorry Dude, I missed the question. The wiring on my brother's bike stayed the same, but I had to add a wire (from the flasher) for the turn signals to each of the newer 2016 switched I used on mine. But all the color codes are otherwise the same so it was just a matter of changing the pins and snapping them back into the old style plugs.


In retrospect, I should have just converted to the newer self canceling turn signals back then to eliminate the need for the extra wire ...(it's simple enough to do)... But it's on my to-do list for later now.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I ran across CDC Motorcycles on eBay and looked them up on the internet. Below is the response I got, and it's been the fastest response yet out of the company's I looked into for front end springs.

Our progressive fork spring kits are pretty much identical to progressive suspension without the extra cost. We use the same supplier also. I was the engineering director at Progressive Suspension for several years before purchasing CDC.

Let me know if you have any other questions,

---
Chris Leach
Owner/President
CDC Motorcycles
[email protected]
www.cdcmotorcycles.com
909-732-2798
 

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Racetech suggested FLEKS3810($190?) which includes springs and emulator. I asked how the emulator works and they basically said it makes the ride smoother and more predictable. I don't know anything about this kinda stuff, so maybe someone can chime in on whether or not it's worth it to get emulators? If you just want racetech springs, FRSPS3234100($101?).
The emulator is a spring loaded valve that is tunable. As opposed to the fixed metering rod used in the oem forks.
 
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