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Discussion Starter #1
Okay I ordered the RF 300-4 are there any plug and play harnesses for that to make it an easier install? Any help Ideas where to mount this sucker would be great...Dumb question. anyone have any wiring diagrams to wire 2 jm 2ohm speakers in for a four ohm amp? I know...I know...
 

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I hate to be the one to break the news to you, but if you plan on running J&M speakers, unless you have 8 or running 4 in series of 2 channels, you bought the wrong amp. :(

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I hate to be the one to break the news to you, but if you plan on running J&M speakers, unless you have 8 or running 4 in series of 2 channels, you bought the wrong amp. :(

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Nah he can run the 2 2 ohms stereo of the front or rear channels and leave the other two for expanability. Just make sure you keep the gains down or you risk blowing them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If I wired the 2 front in a "series" wouldn't that make 4ohm? If it's wired in parallel that would be 1 ohm..correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
http://www.eminence.com/support/wiring-diagrams/

Wiring Configuration for 2 Speakers in Series
Wiring two speakers in series
Two 2 ohm speakers = 4 ohm load
Two 4 ohm speakers = 8 ohm load
Two 8 ohm speakers = 16 ohm load

four in a series with four 2 ohm off two channels....only issue is not sure if it will have enough power...Ya'll think i would be better off with the 300x2? May only be putting out 40w per speaker?
 

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If you're going to be using 4 speakers in series (2 each side), and planning to have spare outputs left, the 300×4 will be ok, but the speakers will be well under powered. IMO I would try to more closely match the RMS of the speakers and amps. I don't know what your budget or expansion plans are, but I think there are better ways to go, as stated in all threads, there are a lot of different opinions.

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PBR 300x4 is not two ohm stable. This won't work.


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They also said they werent stable under 4 ohm mono in the past models and guess what, I have PERSONALLY ran them down to 1 ohm. The only reprocussion that came of it was that it got hotter faster.

In the OPs case it wont matter as he is only running 2 speakers and not going to crank the gains (they are never to be ran over 3/4 gain)

OP- Whether you run the 300x4 or the 300x2 you will be fine at 2 ohm stereo. The only added bonus you will have with the 4 channel is, if you decide you want lower speakers or lid speakers you will be able to add them. If your real worried about it, go with a different set of speakers that are 4 ohm.
 

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If you're going to be using 4 speakers in series (2 each side), and planning to have spare outputs left, the 300×4 will be ok, but the speakers will be well under powered. IMO I would try to more closely match the RMS of the speakers and amps. I don't know what your budget or expansion plans are, but I think there are better ways to go, as stated in all threads, there are a lot of different opinions.

Sent from my SPH-L710
X2...matching the componets is critical. not so much the brands but the format in which they are designed to perform. For the best BANG for the $$$ match your componets. Go look at the offerings the MC stereo companies are selling, it will help you understand what formats work best together, then go find your best deal on one of these formats.
 

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They also said they werent stable under 4 ohm mono in the past models and guess what, I have PERSONALLY ran them down to 1 ohm. The only reprocussion that came of it was that it got hotter faster.

In the OPs case it wont matter as he is only running 2 speakers and not going to crank the gains (they are never to be ran over 3/4 gain)

OP- Whether you run the 300x4 or the 300x2 you will be fine at 2 ohm stereo. The only added bonus you will have with the 4 channel is, if you decide you want lower speakers or lid speakers you will be able to add them. If your real worried about it, go with a different set of speakers that are 4 ohm.
Well it's good that you were able to run the amp outside of the manufacturer's specifications but I wouldn't recommend it especially when you are running it at high volume for hours at a time on road trips. As DBell mentioned, in a series configuration the speakers would be well under powered.

OP, good luck with whatever you choose.


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After looking it up for specs i found that all specs say "not specified" not "not stable" for 2 ohm operation which means they didnt test it at 2 ohms for specs. Usually it is 1.5-2x the power of the 4 ohm rating. It will be perfectly fine running the OPs J&M speakers. After checking out J&Ms specs for their rokkers they rate them at 217 watts MAX. Running them off the 300x4 youll be pushing them right at their RMS wattage. Dont have ANY fear running thise off that amp
 

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PBR300x2 does a little more in output stage, and fully selectable crossover

when I had my PBR300x4 hooked up it actually seemed more consistent running 2 speakers only - no reasoning - I was pleasantly surprised there

but PBR300x2 sounded like a bigger amp and handled more power, and let me tune out the coil hindering lows without losing all the bottom end, just losing what I needed

but yes, it's ohm and watt matching as closely as possible, achieving the most power you can with the least amount of effort, or loss, bottleneck or waste

mine is 192 per channel at 2ohm, 2 4ohm speakers per channel, 100w roughly per speaker x4 on the one amp

217w max would put RMS at around 60-100w range @2.7 ohm speaker would expect 125-200w per side @4ohm in series

65w is about where I run mine usually, deciding not to over blast, but some headroom is there and the numbers are matched fairly close

since the rokkers are 7.25 and component, maybe they'll work out perfect in series with the 4ohm front amp channel
 

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PBR300x2 does a little more in output stage, and fully selectable crossover

when I had my PBR300x4 hooked up it actually seemed more consistent running 2 speakers only - no reasoning - I was pleasantly surprised there

but PBR300x2 sounded like a bigger amp and handled more power, and let me tune out the coil hindering lows without losing all the bottom end, just losing what I needed

but yes, it's ohm and watt matching as closely as possible, achieving the most power you can with the least amount of effort, or loss, bottleneck or waste

mine is 192 per channel at 2ohm, 2 4ohm speakers per channel, 100w roughly per speaker x4 on the one amp

217w max would put RMS at around 60-100w range @2.7 ohm speaker would expect 125-200w per side @4ohm in series

65w is about where I run mine usually, deciding not to over blast, but some headroom is there and the numbers are matched fairly close

since the rokkers are 7.25 and component, maybe they'll work out perfect in series with the 4ohm front amp channel
What impedance are the woofers and mid/tweeter combo? If theyre 4 ohm a piece the 4 channel amp would be a better choice anyways cause the OP could tune the front and rear channels seperately for the different frequencies the woofer and tweeter/mid combo need.
 

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the air space behind fairing, lowers, lids and passenger pods is all different

we didn't ask where the speakers are going? or what radio?

still, if they are the same speakers on the same amp it seems like a good fit

if I were wiring it up, two separate PBR300x2's would get my vote, or some combination thereof

because if doing lids and passenger pods, the pods do need less power

I make a RF amp bracket, technically sold out, but saved a few, places amps behind the headlights and suspends them there for cooling, and prevents the amp from bouncing around later
 

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Reading this gave me headache (and Reds ain't around ;) Need to attach Rosetta Stone or ohm do's and don'ts for dummies link to this. Christ, some of you are like a beautiful mind to me. I lack the patience to learn.

OP- lucky you have the expertise you do. Why this site is great. Good luck.


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To sum it all up, it's ok to piece a system together by using parts from different manufacturers, just make sure everything matches, and also you can save a lot of $$$$ by listening to those who have tinkered around with different systems. Personally I like to tinker..... I don't know when I'm going to just leave my system alone...... may have parts for sale soon. :D

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I like tobsee the info from the guys who have used the new equipment and the experiences. Its also nice to give my exoerience although this is my first bike with an audio system. Ive got several certificates and trophies from my late teens and early 20s (showing my age here) when I was huge into the audio scene but technologies change and I really need to get back in the loop haha and read up on it all so I can give advice based on firsthand knowledge and not have to research it first.

Theres a lot of knowledge on this forum so youll always have some guidance and answers to any related question.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Dang....hahha...I never thought there would be such a wide range of answers to this. So that being said I will give it a shot. I used to know a FEW things about audio, but as was stated earlier by someone else. Things have changed alot or I have forgotten a lot..probably the latter. At any rate that amp was fairly inexpensive I picked it up at amazon for 110.00. so If I don't like how it performs then I will change out the speakers and go with four ohm instead. I do know that there is potential to overheat the amp if the Ohm's are too far out of range with the speakers, but this is being run now with the stock 2012 radio/cb unit. I don't have any desire to change it out yet. No complaints with it really. Nor do I plan on going too crazy with the sound. I just want to be able to hear it better at 90mph in a pack. Right now in a pack it get drowned out by all the loud pipes surrounding me...lol. Thanks for all the answers...I will take any and all advice on the subject...I know I said I wouldn't go too nuts with the system, but I also said "no dear, I don't plan on doing anything else to the bike." That was before the Madstad, the air ride, and several other things. I hope she gave up hoping that was the true...lol:D
 
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