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Discussion Starter #1
Yes, I've searched this Forum and have found some good information. However, I am wondering if the items that I am leaning toward can be beaten in terms of getting even better sound for about the same money. I do not blast music, but the distortion of the stock set up is horrible.

On my FLTRX, I am staying with a 2 speaker set up in the fairing and want to keep the audio items stock looking if possible. Therefore, no rear bag speakers, no speakers in lowers, no removal of gauges to install tweeters, etc. I was planning to add the following:

Rockford Fosgate PBR 300X2 2 channel amp

Polk Audio MM651 6.5" Coax speakers

I would like to hear from those experienced in this area a number of things including:

What would you prefer as a package for the same money?

Who makes adapter rings for the rounds that wont kill me during installation?

Is it worth putting those "foam cups" of any sort around the back of the speaker or lining any cavity with foam, etc.?

Should the gain, etc., be changed in the stock head unit and what are the favored gain settings on the amp itself (PBR)

I know it's a lot to ask, but I thank all who respond very much!
 

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I think that amp will cook those speakers over a couple months time.
 

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you shouldnt have a problem with that setup... you will only fry a speaker if you turn the gain up too high.... turn your gain on the amp all the way down, and turn the volume up to 12-13 bars (just under the "E" in volume)(factory radio output signals distort shortly thereafter so no reason to crank it full volume) and adjust the gain accordingly. turn it up slowly until the speaker starts to distort, then back it off a little bit... youll be fine..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow! 76 views but you are the first post. Perhaps my questions were too dumb. However, thank you VERY MUCH for your response!

In mobile audio as in home audio, most speakers cook (literally, at the voice coil) from too little power in an amp being driven hard to compensate for its weakness trying to produce volume. The amp puts out about 150 Watts per side.

Conversely, a high powered amp generally emits clean power and does not heat up the voice coil of a speaker by passing distorted squared off waves (very over simplified explanation) from being over driven.

At home, though I listen at soft to moderate levels, I have thousands of watts in my systems with no blown drivers. It's sort of like asking a 125cc bike to have gobs of low end V-Twin torque.

However, if I'm missing something please repost, since I know ZERO about this mobile audio stuff though I try to read up on it. All I know is that the stock system is downright embarrassing.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
you shouldnt have a problem with that setup... you will only fry a speaker if you turn the gain up too high.... turn your gain on the amp all the way down, and turn the volume up to 12-13 bars (just under the "E" in volume)(factory radio output signals distort shortly thereafter so no reason to crank it full volume) and adjust the gain accordingly. turn it up slowly until the speaker starts to distort, then back it off a little bit... youll be fine..
Excellent! Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
[post deleted. I was thinking of the 300x4 amp]
Thank you as well! Yeah, all I want is two speakers. I am looking for clean, fairly accurate, and low priced. If I want music reproduced more accurately, I'll take my Vacuum Tube preamp and amps and my Planar speakers at home and forget about trying to be too picky with the V & H Monster Rounds!!!
 

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also, i used a set of flat speaker adapters as opposed to the cone shaped to allow for a deeper speaker depth (everyone will have their own opinions on this). no need to use the foam cups on the back of the speaker, however some light sound deadening material (jm rokker makes a great pre made kit) will help out with cancelation of bouncing sound waves inside of the fairing itself which will improve bottom end by just a smidge. you will also want to use a high/low level converter with the rca input of the amp instead of just high level itself. reasoning behind that being that the rockford amps accept between 4 and 6v off of the high level input for amp turn on. however, factory harmon kardon seems to put out a little more voltage, so anything over the 6 volts is fed back into the radio keeping it on after the switch is shut off. like i said man, you sound like you are pointed in the right direction, if you have any more questions dont hesitate to ask..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I GREATLY appreciate the responses. Please keep them coming, especially about the relative bang for the buck of these particular components, lining the speaker cavities (with whatever) and a good adapter ring set up for the 6.5s.

Thanks again (and again).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
also, i used a set of flat speaker adapters as opposed to the cone shaped to allow for a deeper speaker depth (everyone will have their own opinions on this). no need to use the foam cups on the back of the speaker, however some light sound deadening material (jm rokker makes a great pre made kit) will help out with cancelation of bouncing sound waves inside of the fairing itself which will improve bottom end by just a smidge. you will also want to use a high/low level converter with the rca input of the amp instead of just high level itself. reasoning behind that being that the rockford amps accept between 4 and 6v off of the high level input for amp turn on. however, factory harmon kardon seems to put out a little more voltage, so anything over the 6 volts is fed back into the radio keeping it on after the switch is shut off. like i said man, you sound like you are pointed in the right direction, if you have any more questions dont hesitate to ask..

Wow. Blown away by the information and your knowledge. I never even HEARD of a high/low level converter! Do you have a link perhaps? I am as newbie as you can get with this stuff. I just liked the idea of a stereo because I loved the Road Glide. Never cared about Music with the FatBoy. This is also so very new. I'm also TERRIFIED of removing the fairing......
 

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Very good set up, I had it in my bike briefly, and have installed it in a friends, as stated as long as you don't crank the volume all the way you'll be happy.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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high/low converter basically converts high level speaker output into low level rca input for amplifiers. usually used on installations adding amplifiers to factory radios with no rca pre outs. theyre really straight forward as far as install goes. here is a link to a basic one.

http://pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=780&CategoryID=28

and as far as the front fairing, dont be bashful, 6 screws and 4 bolts, push in and up a little right over the headlight and shes off faster than a prom dress...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
high/low converter basically converts high level speaker output into low level rca input for amplifiers. usually used on installations adding amplifiers to factory radios with no rca pre outs. theyre really straight forward as far as install goes. here is a link to a basic one.

http://pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=780&CategoryID=28

and as far as the front fairing, dont be bashful, 6 screws and 4 bolts, push in and up a little right over the headlight and shes off faster than a prom dress...
Very informative and funny as well. Thanks much!
 

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