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Discussion Starter #1
So @phillyfan1 you asked if there would be another redo...

One of my SD1200.4s went down last week. Remembering @cpbedor lengthy wait, and since I’m not a patient man... but in my defense I am down in Florida for the winter where I can still ride... rather than waiting on SD to repair it and send it back to me I figured I’d just buy another one and have a spare. That thinking led me to just buying a SD2400.4 and pulling both SD1200.4s to either sell or keep as spares.

The new SD2400 arrived so I started to put it in yesterday. The thought occurred to me that I might be able to put that sucker on one of my side plates instead of on my center rack, so I gave it a try, and it worked:

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That little discovery got me thinking... If I can fit this here, then I can put my SD400.4 on the other side plate with the DSI-2 and that will leave the center tray available for another big amp that I could use to power 10”s in the saddlebags. That reminded me that I don’t like that ghost pipe that only adds weight and fills the saddlebag “hole” anyway, so why not order a top shop rear end kit and take my time this winter getting that setup with 10”s while I ride the winter away with my existing setup. I haven’t decided YET to do it, but if I’m being honest I think that’s because I haven’t decided which speakers and amp combo I would use. The options I’m considering are:

two SD800.1 - 4ohm (1 per speaker) as direct replacements for my two existing SD800.1 - 2 ohm amps that run the four GZ Yellow Baskets in my saddlebags
**Easiest, but least growth potential
  • Power @ 14.4V @ 4Ω: 1 X 892 WRMS
    • Faital rs350 4ohm – (Available Now) = 892W per speaker
    • Not enough power for Beyma 10iX
    • Easiest wiring option (already in place - just put the 2400 on the center tray where the two 1200s were, swap the two SD800.1 - 2 ohms I’m already using and it’s done)
    • No need for Limitless battery add
a second SD2400.4 - 4ohm
**Most versatile with growth potential
  • Bridge Power @ 14.4V @ 4Ω: 2 X 1338 WRMS
    • Beyma 10iX 4ohm – bridged (Available December) = 1338W per speaker
    • Faital rs350 4ohm – bridged (Available Now) = more than enough power
    • Requires additional power run for SD400 which is easy and eliminates my in fairing distribution blocks because each amp would have a home run to the battery (two 4 gauge runs already in place, just add an 8 gauge and it’s done)
    • Requires Limitless battery add in my tour pack
SD3000.1 - 2ohm
**Limited versatility, but the highest power output option which might provide growth potential
  • Power @ 14.4V @ 4Ω: 1 X 2208 WRMS
    • Beyma 10iX 8ohm – parallel (Available Now) = 1100W per speaker
  • Power @ 14.4V @ 2Ω: 1 X 3345 WRMS
    • Beyma 10iX 4ohm – parallel (Available December) = 1600W per speaker
    • Faital rs350 4ohm - parallel (Available Now) = more than enough power
  • Requires additional power run for SD400 which is easy and eliminates my in fairing distribution blocks because each amp would have a home run to the battery (two 4 gauge runs already in place, just add an 8 gauge and it’s done)
  • Requires Limitless battery add in my tour pack
I’m justifying it to myself thinking that I’ll make up for some of the cost selling:
  • the two SD1200.4 evox - 2 ohm (when SD fixes the one that sparked all of this)
  • the two SD800.1 evox 2 ohm that currently power the four GZ yellow baskets in the saddlebags
  • the four 8” GZ Yellow Baskets
  • the ghost pipe
  • my side covers, rear fender and sealed bags, which essentially would give someone my current paint job with my custom tail light setup. If the buyer wants to swap outer fairings and fuel tanks (if theirs isn’t black) they’d have the full paint job
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Go ahead... tell me I’m crazy!
 
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Wellllll I think you have your two best options for speakers already set. I currently have the Faitals and they’re a proven commodity- the beymas are not—-at least in the sense that we aren’t fully sure how they’ll run in a small ported bag and with what power.

As it turns out we should know shortly what they sound like as I talked to Andy last night and those monsters are headed north and will be in my bags within a week. They’ll see a shade over 1000 each. This will determine a a couple things - how they’ll run off 1000 and how they’ll run ported and tuned to 50Hz. Like you, I can swap out that bag amp with the quickness and if it sounds like they’re gonna hammer, I won’t hesitate to throw a ton of power at them. I can also retune the port and figure out where we need to be. So John, in a couple weeks we ought to know if we have an extra set of Beymas or an extra set of Faitals sitting around. I’m in the tundra and I can send you down whatever you need, or both; I just need a set back for a trip in April.

Looking forward to seeing which top shop rear end and bags, which amp and which speakers you go with. I’ve been extremely happy with top shop, you’ve definitely made the right choice.

For reference the new Beymas carry a 7.5” magnet, sit 5”+ deep and weigh 14 lbs each



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Discussion Starter #5
Wellllll I think you have your two best options for speakers already set. I currently have the Faitals and they’re a proven commodity- the beymas are not—-at least in the sense that we aren’t fully sure how they’ll run in a small ported bag and with what power.

As it turns out we should know shortly what they sound like as I talked to Andy last night and those monsters are headed north and will be in my bags within a week. They’ll see a shade over 1000 each. This will determine a a couple things - how they’ll run off 1000 and how they’ll run ported and tuned to 50Hz. Like you, I can swap out that bag amp with the quickness and if it sounds like they’re gonna hammer, I won’t hesitate to throw a ton of power at them. I can also retune the port and figure out where we need to be. So John, in a couple weeks we ought to know if we have an extra set of Beymas or an extra set of Faitals sitting around. I’m in the tundra and I can send you down whatever you need, or both; I just need a set back for a trip in April.

Looking forward to seeing which top shop rear end and bags, which amp and which speakers you go with. I’ve been extremely happy with top shop, you’ve definitely made the right choice.

For reference the new Beymas carry a 7.5” magnet, sit 5”+ deep and weigh 14 lbs each



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I’m going to be waiting anxiously to hear your results.
 

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I think you guys are nuts with your huge systems. I admire your willingness to take the risks to cut up all these expensive parts and make a competition quality sound system on daily riders. Kudos to you John and CPBedor.

Wait. Who am I kidding.


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Discussion Starter #8
I think you guys are nuts with your huge systems. I admire your willingness to take the risks to cut up all these expensive parts and make a competition quality sound system on daily riders. Kudos to you John and CPBedor.

Wait. Who am I kidding.


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LOL - Agitator. I’d still be blissfully ignorant and thousands of dollars wealthier had I never met you and the meetup crew.
 

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Re-Do, I see who you have been hanging around with! Peer pressure! HA!!
All you guys are killing it with these systems. Every time I open the computer I fall farther behind then I was before, And I was wayyyy behind.

Due to your track record, Id say go with the potential for growth. We all know that this is it, suggestion was just in case!
 

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Oh, keep me in mind when you start pulling all of these worn out speakers and amps. More then happy to help taking them off your hands so you don't clutter up your garage
 

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The Bemya Power 10s are in and they are legit. I ran 10 songs playing the Faitals just to get my ear in the right spot. I did a direct drop in with the Beyma. No tuning, no crossover change. Both speakers were running 52hz to 350hz. The difference between them was relatively negligible. There wasnt a noticeable volume difference, the Beyma didn’t sound worse or better, perhaps a bit more “solid”? Like the difference between closing a car door on a Nissan vs closing a car door on a new Audi A8. Just a bit more solid.

Then I repeated the same process, same songs, same volume but I dropped the crossover to 32Hz. This is where the Beyma showed up to play. I have 1050 going to each speaker and they hammered. They didn’t bat an eye. They threw down. Low and hard. It was unbelievable. So they are staying, the cone is incredibly stiff. They’ll need 20 hours of break in before they really start moving and I’ll drop the crossover down to 25 and let them eat. I’m evaluating the need for more power, they clearly are ready to run with as much as I can throw at it but the official results are in, the Beyma Power 10s are legit, they hit every bit as hard as the Faitals when you’re into that mid bass range 60-300 but what clearly separates them from the proven Faital is they they’re more than happy to oblige into the sub bass frequency. They move a lot of air. Stock bags would not tolerate these even if they’re braced. That ABS will bend way too much when these hit low.

Happy trails!


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Discussion Starter #12
The Bemya Power 10s are in and they are legit. I ran 10 songs playing the Faitals just to get my ear in the right spot. I did a direct drop in with the Beyma. No tuning, no crossover change. Both speakers were running 52hz to 350hz. The difference between them was relatively negligible. There wasnt a noticeable volume difference, the Beyma didn’t sound worse or better, perhaps a bit more “solid”? Like the difference between closing a car door on a Nissan vs closing a car door on a new Audi A8. Just a bit more solid.

Then I repeated the same process, same songs, same volume but I dropped the crossover to 32Hz. This is where the Beyma showed up to play. I have 1050 going to each speaker and they hammered. They didn’t bat an eye. They threw down. Low and hard. It was unbelievable. So they are staying, the cone is incredibly stiff. They’ll need 20 hours of break in before they really start moving and I’ll drop the crossover down to 25 and let them eat. I’m evaluating the need for more power, they clearly are ready to run with as much as I can throw at it but the official results are in, the Beyma Power 10s are legit, they hit every bit as hard as the Faitals when you’re into that mid bass range 60-300 but what clearly separates them from the proven Faital is they they’re more than happy to oblige into the sub bass frequency. They move a lot of air. Stock bags would not tolerate these even if they’re braced. That ABS will bend way too much when these hit low.

Happy trails!


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I guess that decides it... top shop bags; Beyma 10iX and either another SD2400.4 or SD3000.1.

looking forward to seeing those videos.
 
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I guess that decides it... top shop bags; Beyma 10iX and either another SD2400.4 or SD3000.1.

looking forward to seeing those videos.
Sounds like someone might be getting a nice paint set. Looking forward to seeing what the bike will look like. You’ll love the Top Shop bags and fender. Gives you the choice of exhaust cutouts or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sounds like someone might be getting a nice paint set. Looking forward to seeing what the bike will look like. You’ll love the Top Shop bags and fender. Gives you the choice of exhaust cutouts or not.
I was thinking that... rather than just selling my bags, side covers and fender, I could do a sell and swap to include my outer fairing too if someone wants it. I can’t see selling my rear end with that paint scheme and then redoing (pun intended) the same paint scheme on the new bags. As much as I love it, I don’t want to be #2 of 2. Maybe I’ll go white and invert the current paint scheme?

Anyone interested in a bolt on swap + cash? I can leave the 8” GZs in the sealed/reinforced bags and send the two SD800.1 amps. My customized tail light setup is plug an play. Send me back your outer fairing and I’ll include mine and you’ll have my full paint set with the ability to sell your bags and rear fender to make back some $.

I’m excited to do away with my ghost pipe and go single side cutout for sure.

Hell, maybe I should just sell this one and guy another one and ”redo” another project. Accepting offers I guess - LOL
 

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That’s a lot to think about. You could just put the rear end up for sale. Get the the Top Shop kit and then repaint the bike.

Your last option sounds like fun but damn it’s expensive to start over lol. GL in whatever you decide.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That’s a lot to think about. You could just put the rear end up for sale. Get the the Top Shop kit and then repaint the bike.

Your last option sounds like fun but damn it’s expensive to start over lol. GL in whatever you decide.
It is expensive to start over for sure. Part of me just hates to dismantle this one as is. It looks great, runs great and sounds great. Seems a shame to wipe it off the planet as it sits, but you are right... just selling my bags, side covers and fender (and swapping outer fairings) would keep the paint job fully in tact and I could just come up with a new paint design. I’ve done it a few times now.

The first paint job on this 2018:
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My 2017 Road King
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My 2015 Road Glide
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My 2013 Road Glide
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My 2012 Slim
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