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Discussion Starter #1
Since I don't have a lot of money I am going to start with 2 speakers and an AMP,going to add 2 more speakers to the rear later. I am wanting to use the RF PBR 300x4 with 2 Polk db651's this should work since they are all 4ohms. Can I just use 2 channels for the new speakers and continue to run the rear speakers off of the head unit till I can afford the two for the back speaker pods???? Then when I add speakers to the rear just hook them to the other 2 channels and change the switch on the AMP from 2 to 4 ????? Someone who knows more than me give me some advice. Thanks
 

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having had both amps PBR300x4 then PBR300x2, db 651 slim and regular

they are impressive for the money spent, but the PBR300x2 is more practical
in it's usage, look at the variable crossovers and ability to run a remote EQ

PBR300x2 is more advanced, software rewrite fixed 30+ bugs from the previous version PBR300x4

the db is a gold/silver coned version of the black coned DXi, purchased at BestBuy, db is a value line, slimline and regular basket backspace sizes are the same, but the db tweeters swivel and the slimline ones do not, both are fairly durable, but the on board crossovers are a bit weak, ran mine with better crossovers for a few day and they sounded like better speakers and hit pretty hard, but I was running them as 2ohms with another set

having said all that, if you are looking to only replace stock location stuff and get the best "bang for your buck" and keep it simple, go MM or 2ohm, check out Infinity Kappa 63.9i, 95db sensitvity, 225w max

you'll really need all you can get, from the stereo to hear it

2ohm is about 2 louder, or an honest 8db greater

also the line out from your radio should be converted with a OEM converter

that was one of the 30+ fixes, but redundancy can improve stability

these boosted rail amps convert input voltage to 30v, makes it easier if the input signal is clean.

but good luck in which ever direction you go
 

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having had both amps PBR300x4 then PBR300x2, db 651 slim and regular

they are impressive for the money spent, but the PBR300x2 is more practical
in it's usage, look at the variable crossovers and ability to run a remote EQ

PBR300x2 is more advanced, software rewrite fixed 30+ bugs from the previous version PBR300x4

the db is a gold/silver coned version of the black coned DXi, purchased at BestBuy, db is a value line, slimline and regular basket backspace sizes are the same, but the db tweeters swivel and the slimline ones do not, both are fairly durable, but the on board crossovers are a bit weak, ran mine with better crossovers for a few day and they sounded like better speakers and hit pretty hard, but I was running them as 2ohms with another set

having said all that, if you are looking to only replace stock location stuff and get the best "bang for your buck" and keep it simple, go MM or 2ohm, check out Infinity Kappa 63.9i, 95db sensitvity, 225w max

you'll really need all you can get, from the stereo to hear it

2ohm is about 2 louder, or an honest 8db greater

also the line out from your radio should be converted with a OEM converter

that was one of the 30+ fixes, but redundancy can improve stability

these boosted rail amps convert input voltage to 30v, makes it easier if the input signal is clean.

but good luck in which ever direction you go
Amazing response! That is all.. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How do you run 4ohms speakers as 2ohms speakers? I am not really audio savvy AT ALL. As I said I only have about $250 to start with,and I am a big music buff so I really want to hear my music,but I don't plan on entering any sound shows,and I'll be doing the work myself,just don't trust ANYONE working on mine OR my wifes bikes.
Thx for the reply,I sort of understand most of it.LOL
 

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How do you run 4ohms speakers as 2ohms speakers? I am not really audio savvy AT ALL. As I said I only have about $250 to start with,and I am a big music buff so I really want to hear my music,but I don't plan on entering any sound shows,and I'll be doing the work myself,just don't trust ANYONE working on mine OR my wifes bikes.
Thx for the reply,I sort of understand most of it.LOL
wire them in parallel :) in other words,both speaker positives to line positive,same with the negative side.
 

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I agree with h-donut, I've had both amps also, the 300x2 is better.
 

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How do you run 4ohms speakers as 2ohms speakers? I am not really audio savvy AT ALL. As I said I only have about $250 to start with,and I am a big music buff so I really want to hear my music,but I don't plan on entering any sound shows,and I'll be doing the work myself,just don't trust ANYONE working on mine OR my wifes bikes.
Thx for the reply,I sort of understand most of it.LOL
I'd strongly recommend the knu concepts wire over the Boss package, well worth the extra $7

the PBR300x2 has been changing in price from $145 to $160 back and forth

but the PEQ is now $22 down from $24

if you do one set, I'd recommend 2ohm speakers, which by nature seem to be more expensive, the max watt rating and sensitivity rating most important

I get it, besides saving the $85/hr, you know the state of things

wire them in parallel :) in other words,both speaker positives to line positive,same with the negative side.
more speaker mass, bigger sound

$250 is a little tight to get it all going, maybe under $300-350

but try and avoid "whip its" - stuff you buy because it's a great deal and then
can't use it later

most guys around here who have done the DIY, have tried 'em all and will tell you what works
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One of my riding buddies has the PBR 300x4 and Focal Access 165 CA1 speakers,and when he rides next to me,I can hear his tunes over mine including my pipes. So I just pulled the trigger on both items. I'll post my experience with the results after I get it up and running. I'm going to insulate part of the outer fairing where the speakers are as well. I'm pretty confident I can fabricate my own mount for the amp. I plan on removing the CB too since I don't use it (FOR SALE) and leaving the rear speakers stock for now.I may even just unplug them since they are 2 Ohms and everything I just bought is 4 channel and 4 Ohms,I'll cross thet bridge when I get there. If anyone has any tips or tricks for me I'm always open for thet.
Thanks for all the replies I got,keep'em coming,I'm learning more as we chat,and that can only help.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So has anyone made their own bracket for the RF PBR 300 ? I am pretty sure I can make my own,being experienced in maintenance. My only problem is I no longer have access to a welder. Any pics would really help.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Ok let me see if I got this straight.Speaker wires coming OUT of the stock H/K Head Unit go INTO the input side on the amp. Then the speaker wires coming OUT of the amp connect to the NEW speakers I just installed, CORRECT???

Please Help guys,I'm really audio illeterate.
 

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sounds like you have it right.wires from the radio go to the input side,and the wire out to the speakers go to the output side.

hook em up and enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
sounds like you have it right.wires from the radio go to the input side,and the wire out to the speakers go to the output side.

hook em up and enjoy!
Thanks for the confirmation on the wiring job. I can't wait to get it hooked up. I don't really want to buy a mounting plate for the amp,I would like to make something else. Got any ideas?
 

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Thanks for the confirmation on the wiring job. I can't wait to get it hooked up. I don't really want to buy a mounting plate for the amp,I would like to make something else. Got any ideas?
If you have the RF amp you can use velcro and mount it to the top of your radio.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #17
please post up and let everyone know what you think of the focals once they're installed
I will let you know how it sounds,I am waititng for my mounting plate to show up. Of course it's been really cold here for TX and since I can't get my garage warm enough to work in,I'll have to wait a bit. But trust me,it's very hard to wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the confirmation on the wiring job. I can't wait to get it hooked up. I don't really want to buy a mounting plate for the amp,I would like to make something else. Got any ideas?
I almost forgot,I have one more questions for all you audio techs out there. Since I don't have money to replace the two rear speakers yet,can I just leave them hooked up to the stock head unit as they are for now? If so should I leave the 2/4 switch on the back of the amp on 2 since I'll only be using 2 channels for now?
This is the only thing I am still not sure about.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Help

Bump for some more info.

I go to the local audio installation shop and tell them I need 8' of #10 power wire with a 30amp inline fuse close to one end. I also ask for 4' of black #10 ground wire for the installation of my amp. They come back and hand everything to me for $8 not bad upon first look. I get the speakers and amp all mounted up and start running all the electrical when I start having trouble getting the power wire into the connection on the amp. Upon a closer look,the wire they gave me was #8...... DAMN!!!! so I pull all the wire out and take it back,the installer says theres really not THAT much difference between #8 & #10, I says yeah....until you start trying to put it into a #10 connection on the amp,plus all the other #10 connections I bought to do the job as per the RF Manual. He gave me some #10 speakers wire. He recommended using the gold wire for the Power and the silver for the Ground, This requires hooking both wires to the Battery and running along side of each other the length of the bike from Battery to Amp. Any thoughts on all of this? I would really like to know before I run and hook up and button everything down and then have to pull apart and redo a bunch of stuff.
 

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1. the 2 channel button is for the input side, for fade control

if I had an ultra to do an install on I would have a better answer on how to utilize the factory rear speaker wires,

2. there is a quality control issue with the HK head or factory wiring, with the right front side being "phased" or wired wrong, I think most people believe the weakest link to be the head unit, since many have failed, the "fix" for head unit is to check "line voltages" very carefully AND/OR add line level converter PRIOR to operation AND to reduce the OEM VOLTAGE level from factory speaker leads with a line converter, 2 if you are running 4 channel amp.

there is not much support for diy mobile audio, if you break something the first time out, just hope it's nothing major.

your situation: YOU HAD THE RIGHT STUFF, still DO, 10ga speaker wire for power will limit expansion, but might work fine ??!, I used the BOSS 8ga kit first go around, bought it for $8 online, but the actual cable was 10ga, it kinda sounded strained, cheap assed shit, garbage really, the RF install instruction say 10ga minimum, 8ga actual true spec cable, like what you had helps the amp, you'd be better off, MAKING IT FIT

I'd run everything for a few hours with the bike plugged in

so if it fails, it fails with the fairing off

improper wiring intentional or not can cause feedback, ic failure, heat damage, potential HKU failure, etc... factory radio warranty is 12 mo.
 
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