[Rmcouvi03]

Anyone out there have any experience with Star Racing Cams? I had my mind made up and was going with the Star 30-30. Now that I'm about to pull the trigger, I see another cam released by Star Racing called the F35A. I know this one needs different springs but I already planned on replacing them while I had the covers off for the Fueling 1 peice pushrods.

 

[RFG7680]

There's a 600 rpm difference where the cam comes on. 1700 as opposed to 2300. With your given choice in the other thread of the 2-2 head pipes I would definitely stay with the 30-30 cam.


How do you ride? These cams act differently

 

[Rmcouvi03]

There's a 600 rpm difference where the cam comes on. 1700 as opposed to 2300. With your given choice in the other thread of the 2-2 head pipes I would definitely stay with the 30-30 cam.


How do you ride? These cams act differently

I probably ride mostly in the lower RPM range. Every once I awhile I blow the carbon out! City stop and go till I get to the interstate then it is just cruising and passing other vehicles. I would have to guess, 2 to 4k range on the RPM.

 

[RFG7680]

I probably ride mostly in the lower RPM range. Every once I awhile I blow the carbon out! City stop and go till I get to the interstate then it is just cruising and passing other vehicles. I would have to guess, 2 to 4k range on the RPM.

That is like a lot of us. I think I'd go with the 30-30 you're riding right in it's sweet spot. That's just my opinion. But I have a 475 cam sitting here that hits about the same time as that 35. Owner pulled it out in favor of a sooner hitting torque type cam. That 600rpm does not seem like a large gap. But it's enough that you'll definitely know a difference. He wanted the bigger numbers off the rip but didnt realize bigger numbers to not equate to better riding experience.

 

[18 Wicked Special]

Stick with the 30-30, use adjustable pushrods, then no need to disturb the rockers with the stock valve springs. That'll be less strain on the valve train. It's not like you're trying cut e.t. numbers at the track. Don't forget some quality lifters during the install.

 

[Rmcouvi03]

Stick with the 30-30, use adjustable pushrods, then no need to disturb the rockers with the stock valve springs. That'll be less strain on the valve train. It's not like you're trying cut e.t. numbers at the track. Don't forget some quality lifters during the install.

10-4, I went with the feuling Race Series lifters! Thanks

 

[madmat]

Go with the 30-30, leave the valve springs alone

 

[Rmcouvi03]

Ok I'll drop the springs off the build. What about S&S Guardian Kit that includes the Roller Rocker? Unfortunately I already purchased this part from Fuel Moto.

 

[RFG7680]

Ok I'll drop the springs off the build. What about S&S Guardian Kit that includes the Roller Rocker? Unfortunately I already purchased this part from Fuel Moto.

None of that is needed with a bolt in cam. Did you call FM or just order a bunch of parts online? I talked to them and they told me not to buy a few parts because I was “only doing” a stage 2 with a bolt in cam.

That guardian kit is for big bore builds. Notice it reads. “Big HO and Big TQ builds”

$800 could have been better spent on something else.

 

[18 Wicked Special]

As stated above, kind of like putting race tires on a Prius

 

[Yellow09SERG]

If the Star 30-30 works anything like the original Dontov 30-30 cam it will be a winner for sure

 

[Rmcouvi03]

Well I'm putting in solid pushrods so I figured while I had the covers off might as well change some weak points... that $800 didn't stop any other parts being bought.

 

[Rmcouvi03]

As stated above, kind of like putting race tires on a Prius

Ima have the coolest Prius on the block!

 

[Rmcouvi03]

Some of today's Stage 2 builds with some other supporting performance parts, larger TB and intake, with larger injectors are making HP&TQ #s of some of the earlier big bore kits. Like the one shown below.

 

[Nuke]

 

[Rmcouvi03]

@Nuke , Great numbers on that 124", is the CR485 a new cam? I can't fine any information on it or anyone who sells it online, not even the company making it. Do you have any details on it?

 

[JED POLAND]

@Nuke , Great numbers on that 124", is the CR485 a new cam? I can't fine any information on it or anyone who sells it online, not even the company making it. Do you have any details on it?

It's latest Cycle Rama cam fabricated for Australian A.P.E. company.
Almost the whole production leaves the US with few cams left for american market.
I managed to get one, actually the last one in the US.
And after few months and many dyno graphs seen on the FB, I am full of doubts.
So, most likely, I will put proven 480 in.

 

[Rmcouvi03]

So you have the CR485 and your saying there numbers are BS?

 

[JED POLAND]

I have 485 still in the box.
But I am an engineer and was amateur, street drag racer (cars) so I am not new to tuning in general.
So as per my judgement, those figures are CRAZY optimistic, nearly impossible as for cam only.
Then there are just two "profiles" on the FB posting those great figures: Those Dyno Guys and APE.
I saw only one sheet not related to those people and the results were not as magical.

Now, I don't have a performance exhaust - if I had, let's say, 2-1 HPi, I possibly would install the 485.
But APE gets those results from kind of short shots 🧐!
And last but not least - TQ is all for me and that cam is rather dragstrip/street racing type of.

 

[Rmcouvi03]

Thomas Miller (channel in the link below) has been using the CR485 Cam, but I'm not sure if he has anything to do with the 2 you listed. I'd buy that 485 from you if shipping over the pond isn't terrible.

https://www.youtube.com/@MasterTechMiller