[1st Sgt]

Does anyone use anti-seize when reinstalling a muffler (slip-on) to make the next removal easier? I just pulled mine off to adjust the belt and thought a coating of anti-seize would be helpful. would be helpful down the road.

 

[Mike U]

@1st Sgt I am not sure of the heat rating of Anti Seize so I would check what is listed on the Bottle before applying any to the muffler. If it’s compatible I don’t see any issues just don’t gob it up. Another good product is PB Blaster. Helps remove stubborn pieces easily.
Best of Luck.
Mike U.

 

[1st Sgt]

@1st Sgt I am not sure of the heat rating of Anti Seize so I would check what is listed on the Bottle before applying any to the muffler. If it’s compatible I don’t see any issues just don’t gob it up. Another good product is PB Blaster. Helps remove stubborn pieces easily.
Best of Luck.
Mike U.

Thanks Mike. I just checked the temperature rating and it is spec'ed up to 1600° F, so I think I'm good.

 

[craigffb]

No.

 

[VentScreens]

Does anyone use anti-seize when reinstalling a muffler (slip-on) to make the next removal easier? I just pulled mine off to adjust the belt and thought a coating of anti-seize would be helpful. would be helpful down the road.

Yes indeed. I learned the hard way to always use an ant-seize compound for mufflers and related pipes. I've used Permatex aluminum successfully. Saw this info online:
1600 degrees F for aluminum anti-seize.
1800 degrees F for copper anti-seize.
2400 degrees F for nickel anti-seize.

All are well above a muffler joint temperature

 

[Zedbra]

I used it on my Reinhards when I had them, the left one loved to get stuck. I would also sand out the inner of the slip-on each time to get any gunk or rust off

 

[StoneTrekker]

Anti-seize is your best friend if friction is a future problem. I fought my right muffler when removing it for Stage II work. I used anti-seize on both cans when I reinstalled them, plus the crossover pipe.

 

[Bevis]

Just don't slather it on...it will get everywhere, like @craigffb picture of tin man

 

[18 Wicked Special]

Yup, I use Loctite LB771 nickel anti-seize, good to 2400* F. A little goes a long way. Also on exhaust stud threads.

 

[BH#103]

Anti seize.....I put that shit on everything!

 

[cactusred]

Yup, I use Loctite LB771 nickel anti-seize, good to 2400* F. A little goes a long way. Also on exhaust stud threads.

Yes, I use this too, it's a higher temp. I do however put permatex copper high temp sealant on the crossover tube because there is no gasket there and it's a good place for a leak, and backfire on decel.

 

[18 Wicked Special]

Yes, I use this too, it's a higher temp. I do however put permatex copper high temp sealant on the crossover tube because there is no gasket there and it's a good place for a leak, and backfire on decel.

Haven't noticed any signs of exhaust leakage there, the clamps do a decent job.

 

[Mach2]

Late to the game. Don’t overlook MoM—Milk of Magnesia. Seriously, google it as an anti-seize. Used on ingitors and hot sections on P&W (F-15) other engines, those are smokin hot. Cheap, effective and not widely known. That old bottle in the back of the medicine cabinet. Apply a coat and let er rip.

The others work fine too. Pulling stuff from left field is all.

 

[StoneTrekker]

Late to the game. Don’t overlook MoM—Milk of Magnesia. Apply a coat and let er rip.

Really good tip and one I'd long forgotten about. Thanks!

MoM is a great anti-seize product for your pipes. My grandma relied on it, and she was known for ripping one occasionally.

 

[Mach2]

Really good tip and one I'd long forgotten about. Thanks!

MoM is a great anti-seize product for your pipes. My grandma relied on it, and she was known for ripping one occasionally.

Old trick. The first time I saw it called out in the tech orders, I had to read it a few times. Wasn’t odd to see a pile of turbine bolts soaking in it. I wouldn’t drink it afterwards.

Unsure of corrosion resistance. The others may shine there. But, if you want smooth moves, look to MoM.

 

[NCPiper]

What is it with those left ones?? I also have Rineharts and can't get the left exhaust cap off. Right one - no problem.

I used it on my Reinhards when I had them, the left one loved to get stuck. I would also sand out the inner of the slip-on each time to get any gunk or rust off

 

[RGKen]

You guys must be scared to be rough with it. (that's what she said...) Just push that thing up and down and side to side tto get the split in the pipe wider and the slip-on will come right off. No need to be gentle. Lol!

 

[Zedbra]

You guys must be scared to be rough with it. (that's what she said...) Just push that thing up and down and side to side tto get the split in the pipe wider and the slip-on will come right off. No need to be gentle. Lol!

That resulted in my mounting tab snapping off my left-side true dual header - but yeah, you can Hulk smash pretty much anything to varying degrees of success

 

[Frank Akerley]

Late to the game. Don’t overlook MoM—Milk of Magnesia. Seriously, google it as an anti-seize. Used on ingitors and hot sections on P&W (F-15) other engines, those are smokin hot. Cheap, effective and not widely known. That old bottle in the back of the medicine cabinet. Apply a coat and let er rip.

The others work fine too. Pulling stuff from left field is all.

^^^ Well ain't he the shits!

 

[Thermodyne]

I just put a little silicon spray on the pipe before I slip the cans back on. Makes em come back off pretty easy and doesn't let them move on their own like anti-seize.