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I'm done with the install besides clutch and brake line. Clutch is no problem just ran out if time. But I can't for the life of me figure out how to bleed the abs line I installed. I really don't wanna pull threw the front brakes if I don't have to. Aloe of air I would be introducing threw the system. Any info would be awesome trying to get out of a trip to the stealer.
 

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I'm done with the install besides clutch and brake line. Clutch is no problem just ran out if time. But I can't for the life of me figure out how to bleed the abs line I installed. I really don't wanna pull threw the front brakes if I don't have to. Aloe of air I would be introducing threw the system. Any info would be awesome trying to get out of a trip to the stealer.
I replaced my lines when I put on taller bars. Bled them through to the front calipers. No issues, no codes. Wasn't that bad. Pain in the butt without a second pair of hands or vacuum line, but not hard. Just do it and you'll be done before you find an alternate method.

Cheers,
G
 

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I used a mity vac to draw the fluid up

going from caliper up, back to the master cylinder, one side at a time

because of the Y, and new pads, there was a little adjustment, but only had to bleed them once

also, don't remove the screws completely from the master cylinder cover, it messes up the gasket, or overfill

or have a bandana ready
 

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I mounted my new bars then clamped my old bars on a portable workbench next to the bike on the right with the master cylinder on the right side of the bar at a higher level than the ABS unit, mounted the extended brake line to it after routing it under the tank to the ABS unit , then hung the ABS end over the side of the frame with the end in a jar of brake fluid, then filled the reservoir and pumped fluid up through the line until there were no bubbles. Once the line was filled I made sure the ABS unit was topped off and connected the line then bled it through the right caliper after mounting the brake cylinder on the new bar. Nice solid brakes with no ABS problems right out of the gate. Sounds more complicated in writing than in practice.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I mounted my new bars then clamped my old bars on a portable workbench next to the bike on the right with the master cylinder on the right side of the bar at a higher level than the ABS unit, mounted the extended brake line to it after routing it under the tank to the ABS unit , then hung the ABS end over the side of the frame with the end in a jar of brake fluid, then filled the reservoir and pumped fluid up through the line until there were no bubbles. Once the line was filled I made sure the ABS unit was topped off and connected the line then bled it through the right caliper after mounting the brake cylinder on the new bar. Nice solid brakes with no ABS problems right out of the gate. Sounds more complicated in writing than in practice.
I can't get the line that I ran to the abs block to stop leaking. I didn't receive any new copper washers with the kit so I'm hoping so new ones will stop the leaking. Drag specialties lines known for leaking??
 

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Unless the leak is where the line is crimped to the banjo the line itself is probably not bad. IMHO new washers are a must. Make sure the mating surfaces are smooth so that they seal when the copper crushes and make sure the banjo naturally falls where you want it, there should be no need to twist it or bend it much to make it line up. If you tighten the banjo bolt down snug and slightly rotate it it may help it bed before finally torquing to spec, but that really shouldn't be necessary if all surfaces are defect free. Do not over tighten thinking more is better. Hope this helps.
 

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I can't get the line that I ran to the abs block to stop leaking. I didn't receive any new copper washers with the kit so I'm hoping so new ones will stop the leaking. Drag specialties lines known for leaking??
Did you replace the 1 piece upper line with a 2 piece (mid and upper) line? Or is it a 1 piece replacement? Which end is leaking? Be sure to get that cleaned up ASAP and rinse anything the brake fluid touches - that stuff will eat paint and damage plastic.

As someone else posted - new washers should be used when you replace the lines as the copper is the "gasket". The surfaces need to be free of any dirt or grit to get a good seal. Be sure the fit is correct and you aren't putting any stress on the banjo connector. Torque to spec and it shouldn't leak. I'm shocked Drag Specialties didn't send new copper washers. That's fairly standard when you order a replacement line. I went with Magnum Shielding lines - impressed with their quality.

Good luck. Add photos if you're still having trouble so we can see what you've got going on.

Cheers,
G
 

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I've always bled em like a car, occasionally I've had to tighten the bleeders on the caliper before releasing the lever but that is typically with a rear brake setup that master cylinder is lower than the caliper. You can pick up a little bleed assist at vato zone for around $5 and they are great for freeing up a hand and getting the fluid up higher than the calipers. As mentioned before I agree with new washers and don't let that fluid get on anything if you can help it.
 

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I've always bled em like a car, occasionally I've had to tighten the bleeders on the caliper before releasing the lever but that is typically with a rear brake setup that master cylinder is lower than the caliper. You can pick up a little bleed assist at vato zone for around $5 and they are great for freeing up a hand and getting the fluid up higher than the calipers. As mentioned before I agree with new washers and don't let that fluid get on anything if you can help it.
Everything is all set. Brake line was a little long. But all good brakes are bled. Bike looks awesome.
 

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I also cheated, dealer told me dot 5 was okay, so used that instead, doesn't eat the paint as much, just in case

this is that $40 tool no one can live without



directions are terrible, but comes with a cup that submerges into the master cyclinder, pressure readings are irrelevant, when the bubbles are gone you're good, 6 minutes a side, if that
 

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Heroin would have been a cheaper habit.
Ok can you tell me about these ABS lines... whats so different than a normal brake line? Where did you get them, and are you happy with them? I need extended lines for my bike so I can get ready for my next bar install. I think I am going 14 or 16, havent decided yet.
 

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Ok can you tell me about these ABS lines... whats so different than a normal brake line? Where did you get them, and are you happy with them? I need extended lines for my bike so I can get ready for my next bar install. I think I am going 14 or 16, havent decided yet.
Donk - no difference in lines other than final destination. ABS lines run from the handlebars down through the nacelle, under the tank and to the ABS unit mounted under the seat. From there a separate line runs back out under the tank to the front calipers. Same for the rears - has to make a connection to the ABS unit. Just be wary when you order. HD calls them front brake upper and lower lines, but some aftermarkets have a two-piece upper (e.g. Magnum Shielding) where you will need a mid and upper to go from the ABS unit to the handlebars. The nice thing about this set up is if you change bars again later - you have a connection inside the nacelle to swap the upper line - no need to remove the tank or seat for a bar swap. Down side? Another connection that might leak.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

Cheers,
G
 

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Donk - no difference in lines other than final destination. ABS lines run from the handlebars down through the nacelle, under the tank and to the ABS unit mounted under the seat. From there a separate line runs back out under the tank to the front calipers. Same for the rears - has to make a connection to the ABS unit. Just be wary when you order. HD calls them front brake upper and lower lines, but some aftermarkets have a two-piece upper (e.g. Magnum Shielding) where you will need a mid and upper to go from the ABS unit to the handlebars. The nice thing about this set up is if you change bars again later - you have a connection inside the nacelle to swap the upper line - no need to remove the tank or seat for a bar swap. Down side? Another connection that might leak.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

Cheers,
G
That is a huge help.... my only question is: Can you tell me exactly what to order so I dont mess it up? If HD makes an extended upper line thats fine, if not I can go aftermarket.
 

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Great info on ABS Issues. General bleeding procedures sound to be the same as usual. Just time consuming by yourself with out a whiz bang assist unit.
The washers are a must any time you change. A call to a reputable parts dealer should always get you what you want with length changes.
BTW your bike look great with those bars!:D
 
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