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Discussion Starter #1
Hey again,

Well, I got some shitty news, I dropped my Diamond 4v2 600 watt channel accidentally as I was trying to setup some basic wiring steps as I was watching the football game,but Im hoping it still works.

Anyhow, first things first I took out the inline 60Amp fuse inside the fuseholder of my power cables. I ran a dry run on my couch and this is what I got so far. I attached the the blue reote turn on in the remote turn in hole of the diamond 4v2. I installed the ground and red in the 12v and ground with the looped end toward the other end (battery of the bike).

i read in the manual that the 4v2 gives you a set of options either bridged/normal (with RCA jacks) setup, so I put them both in just to understand this crap. so far thats it.

First question I have:

Inside the power kit, were a set of seperate speaker wires and american hardbag also sent me a seperate set of blue coated 16 gauge wire also, not sure what thats about?

Im looking at my 18 touring service manual and went to the 9.33 boom box infotainment section just to see what the back of the headunit looks like behind my frame mounted fairing.

So here goes: Most obvious question , where do I install the front and rear speaker cable leads from my headunit to the 4 channel amp?

Second question: Where does the remote wire go from the head unit to the receiver?, Im assuming? or splice it into somewhere else?

3rd question: Im assuming Im gonna have to do some soldering, and thats fine! Just unsure what I need to solder in terms of speaker cables from the amp to the front speakers or to the radio harness?

Ifd its to the radio harness, do I remove the radio harness and match up the correct color codes using my service manual wiring diagrams in the back?

4th question how do I install the DSR1?

And final question, for now, if I am to remove the stock radio harness and solder wires, how do the front audio 14+ plug n' play harnesses work, am I installing those in addition to soldering or no?

And finally Ive got an extra set of RCA inputs the guy from American Hardbag sold to me, not sure what to do with those?

PS...On the end of the plug n play front audio harness, there is a seperate attachment that looks like some sort of narrow type of plug, kind of weird looking.

ALso, where does the fuse for the DSR1 go? It says between the DSR1 battery and the DSR1, no idea what the hell there talking about?

I know how to install the split backbone and the rear lids, cause I need to drill a hole in each of the lids to gain access inside the lid to run a wire for future lid speakers, but the front audio Im a bit rusty on.

BTW..I shaked the diamond amp 4v2 and I can hear something light rattling inside, that cant be good for anybody.
Here are some pics hopefully you guys understand what in the hell I'm talking about before I go play in traffic, losing my mind trying to figure this out.

I can only upload 5 pictures but I have more!!

Thank you,
John S
 

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Discussion Starter #2
more pics (cont page 2) audio upgrade for 2018 harley road Glide John S

The 5 th picture shows a set of wire harnesses for bridged mode and the 4th picture shows a set of harness/RCA cables for non-bridged 'normal setup mode'!
 

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Let’s talk later. There will be no soldering of any wire on that bike.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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John, sorry to hear about Your Amp. Before installing it I would make sure that it powers up if it doesn't I would contact American Hard Bag to get a solution.
On another note, as roadie13 stated, there's no need to solder anything.
I've listed below American Hard Bag's information re: RF DSR-1.
Hope this helps.
Mike U.

The Perfect Solution

High to low, equalizer, crossover, Bluetooth all in one plug and play unit. This kit uses the awesome new Rockford Fosgate DSR1 digital sound processor to seamlessly integrate aftermarket amplifiers and speakers with your factory or aftermarket Harley radio.

Simple to Setup

The setup is straightforward and done by smartphone (Bluetooth). We can even make your settings for you remotely at no extra cost!
Easy to Use

Simple smartphone app controls all of the settings. No need to connect a computer.
No Need to Flash Your Bike!

The equalizer can account for whatever flash your bike currently has. The plug and play signal harness comes with load resistors built into it that dramatically improves the sound quality of your factory Harley radio.
Easy to Install

This kit will work with any radio, factory or aftermarket. Optionally it even ships with plug and play signal adapters for any '14 or later Harley Davidson radio. The DSR1 also has RCA inputs as well for aftermarket radios.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Diamond amp return and biketronics aftermarket adapters delivered today!

Thanks Mike and Roadie13,

I got in touch with Diamond amps and they said that they would replace my amp, after telling them what happened to it as i was looking at.

I'm just waiting on a new amp to be sent to me.
Got the aftermarket adapters for the fairing speakers from biketronics today also.

I'll keep you guys posted
Thanks
You guys are a lifesavers!!

John S
 
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Discussion Starter #9
punch level control and vehicle T-harness

Hey guys,
Got a simple question!
For the DSR1 on the instructions provided, it indicates a Punch Level Control (sold seperately) and a the Vehicle T-Harness (sold seperately).

Am I going to need to purchase those 2 items for my audio install upgrade on my 18 RG?

Thanks
John S
 

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Have never had a DSR1 in my hands so guessing here. The punch level control sounds like their remote bass boost for amps so I’ll guess no on that one. The T harness likely has the connector to tie into the radio so I’ll guess yes there. Key word and tricky phrase is guess, call whoever you bought it from or RF directly and confirm.

This is exactly why I buy from guys like biketronics and Badd Azz bikes, they take the time to walk through it with you and provide setup specific advice. It’s easy to miss little things and that’s understandable, but if you bought this stuff from a bike audio shop and they didn’t get you every major piece needed (vehicle specific harness is major) call to get it straight and don’t deal with them again after this build. If you got it from fleabay or amazon won’t be any help there.

I can have amp and speakers installed and tuned in a heartbeat, this DSR1 I’m worthless when it comes to advice.


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John, according to Rockford Fosgate,

Remote Punch Level Control
PLC2
"Wired remote Punch Level Control for select 2013 and newer Punch and Power amplifiers. "Remote Level Control offers remote level control of the amplifier. Once the on-board gain control is set, the PLC2 can attenuate (and not increase) the level from that point. Cable and mounting hardware included. For use with select 2013 and newer PUNCH and POWER amplifiers."
It seems that it is specific for RF Punch and Power Amps.

FLEXIBLE INPUT CONFIGURATIONS
The DSR1 can be utilized out-of-the-box with high-level, low-level, or with a T-harness and vehicle
specific firmware enabling integration without loss of factory equipped controls and features.

FACTORY RADIO + T-HARNESS
Allows for installation of aftermarket
amplifiers with vehicle specific firmware
and T-harness while retaining factory
radio controls and features.

There are many different T-Harness available from RF as The DSR-1 can be installed in many different vehicles.
I would give them a call and request the proper identification of the T-Harness cable for Your specific Roadglide.
The T-Harness seems to make for an easy installation while keeping all the OEM Radio Functions.

Hope this helps.
Mike U.
 

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Hey again,

Well, I got some shitty news, I dropped my Diamond 4v2 600 watt channel accidentally as I was trying to setup some basic wiring steps as I was watching the football game,but Im hoping it still works.

Anyhow, first things first I took out the inline 60Amp fuse inside the fuseholder of my power cables. I ran a dry run on my couch and this is what I got so far. I attached the the blue reote turn on in the remote turn in hole of the diamond 4v2. I installed the ground and red in the 12v and ground with the looped end toward the other end (battery of the bike).

i read in the manual that the 4v2 gives you a set of options either bridged/normal (with RCA jacks) setup, so I put them both in just to understand this crap. so far thats it.

First question I have:

Inside the power kit, were a set of seperate speaker wires and american hardbag also sent me a seperate set of blue coated 16 gauge wire also, not sure what thats about?

Im looking at my 18 touring service manual and went to the 9.33 boom box infotainment section just to see what the back of the headunit looks like behind my frame mounted fairing.

So here goes: Most obvious question , where do I install the front and rear speaker cable leads from my headunit to the 4 channel amp?

Second question: Where does the remote wire go from the head unit to the receiver?, Im assuming? or splice it into somewhere else?

3rd question: Im assuming Im gonna have to do some soldering, and thats fine! Just unsure what I need to solder in terms of speaker cables from the amp to the front speakers or to the radio harness?

Ifd its to the radio harness, do I remove the radio harness and match up the correct color codes using my service manual wiring diagrams in the back?

4th question how do I install the DSR1?

And final question, for now, if I am to remove the stock radio harness and solder wires, how do the front audio 14+ plug n' play harnesses work, am I installing those in addition to soldering or no?

And finally Ive got an extra set of RCA inputs the guy from American Hardbag sold to me, not sure what to do with those?

PS...On the end of the plug n play front audio harness, there is a seperate attachment that looks like some sort of narrow type of plug, kind of weird looking.

ALso, where does the fuse for the DSR1 go? It says between the DSR1 battery and the DSR1, no idea what the hell there talking about?

I know how to install the split backbone and the rear lids, cause I need to drill a hole in each of the lids to gain access inside the lid to run a wire for future lid speakers, but the front audio Im a bit rusty on.

BTW..I shaked the diamond amp 4v2 and I can hear something light rattling inside, that cant be good for anybody.
Here are some pics hopefully you guys understand what in the hell I'm talking about before I go play in traffic, losing my mind trying to figure this out.

I can only upload 5 pictures but I have more!!

Thank you,
John S

To answer all of your questions. Take your ass to a professional audio shop and have them do it. You obviously dont know since your asking these qustions. I wouldnt risk fucking uup your bike dude!
 
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Discussion Starter #15
info on the DSR1 T-harness

Hey guys,
I called up Rock Fosgate today and they told me that they do not make a vehicle specific T-harness for Harley bikes. I also asked if they had any specific installation instructions for the DSR1 in a harley road glide and again, and he said "We do not have any instructions as every install and vehicle application will be different". I would recommend having a shop tune/install it if you are unfamiliar on how to use/tune a DSP.

John S
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Hey Mike and Roadie,

Whats up guys,
I have a question I was wondering I could ask you guys...On the wiring kit I received from AmericanHardbag, I received 2 sets of front speaker install wires. Any idea why I have 2 sets of speaker connectors for the FRONT speaker pods?

1) The first set is labeled "Speaker Connectors for Front Speaker Pods".
So I received 2 sets of quick disconnect plug n play harness wires in 1 bag.
At 1 end of the cable it has 1 quick disconnect and at the other end it has a wire that has not been spliced open yet. When I spliced open the other end there are two wires, 1 of which is red and the other 1 of which is black.

The other quick disconnect harness contains the same color coded wires as the first harness, 1 of which is red and 1 of which is black also.

2) The 2nd bag contains the label "14' and UP Harley Front Speaker to RCA kit"
And that contains 2 seperate quick disconnect harnesses with an RCA plug at one end and at the other end it contains these little black resistors wrapped in heat shrink.

So, I'm a bit confused, which one of the sets of front speaker cable inputs am I going to use ? or do I use both of those? and Im assuming since the first set of quick disconnects ,at the other end it contains 2 separate red and black wires, Ill be soldering something onto that or onto another wire?

Bit confused?
Thanks guys,
John S
 

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John

How did your install turn out? I have a '19 RG and I have the RF kit with fairing and bag lid speakers and RF amp. That install went smoothly, because there were videos online showing how to install and wire everything up. I then ordered the DSR1 and a sub kit from American Hardbag thinking the difficulty level would be about the same. Ha! This DSR1 is kicking my ass. It is supposed to be plug and play but WTH? There are no videos and cannot find any step by step instructions on how to wire this up. They sent everything I need to install but no good instructions on how to install.

Did you happen to take notes or pictures?

Thanks

Ed
 

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John

How did your install turn out? I have a '19 RG and I have the RF kit with fairing and bag lid speakers and RF amp. That install went smoothly, because there were videos online showing how to install and wire everything up. I then ordered the DSR1 and a sub kit from American Hardbag thinking the difficulty level would be about the same. Ha! This DSR1 is kicking my ass. It is supposed to be plug and play but WTH? There are no videos and cannot find any step by step instructions on how to wire this up. They sent everything I need to install but no good instructions on how to install.

Did you happen to take notes or pictures?

Thanks

Ed
good luck with that install, I been all over this internet and the only thing out here is AHB and YouTube. people tell you their work fine , but they don't give any screen shots of their crossover and EQ setting so to use as a starting point.
 

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Guys, I'm going to sound like I'm trying to rain on your parade, but that is farthest from the truth.

1. If you're a bike audio novice (and especially if you have to ask basic install questions) I don't recommend buying a DSR or DSP. Even if you get the installation done correctly, there is a huge amount of tuning that must be done afterwards, and the learning curve on most of them is pretty steep.

2. Unless you're running components and more than four speakers, I don't recommend buying a DSR or DSP. The BT355 is a much simpler solution that provides almost "out of the box" results in most setups.

3. While the wealth of knowledge accumulating on this forum regarding bike audio (and specifically RG bike audio) is increasing, your best bet for tuning with a DSR or DSP is still over at the other forum.

I met up with the audioaholics from the other forum earlier this year, and they are on a whole different level. You know when they start pulling out laptops to tune their DSR's on a road trip, that they take this stuff seriously. And, it's equally amazing how great they can make someone else's system sound when properly tuned.
 
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