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Discussion Starter #1
Just posted my fat tire upgrades, now working through the stereo. Full PRV components in the front end with Sound Digital Evo 400 and DSP. Wanted to put up some pics to show how nicely the amp fits up front as well as how I cut in the horns inside the fairing. Also doing a little DSP tuning.
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Discussion Starter #4
Nice work. How's it sound ?
Sound is subjective, but I had the system spec'd out and tuned by one of the best in the country and this is the system he chose. To me it is awesome. My only comparisons would be MMATs with the Stinger Amps, Biketronics and Kappa. This puts them all to shame, some people are on the fence with the DSP, but if you have not heard the difference on a properly tuned system, you are missing out. The Harley head unit is the weak link, the DSP bypasses the head unit. Not badmouthing the above brands, they are quality as well, but for a couple extra bucks, I would definately go with the PRVs, very popular in the competition circle.
 

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What shop do you work at?


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I don't work at a shop, lol! I play around at the shop. Work was done by Dave Dupor at DD Custom Cycles in Lake Villa, Illinois. Great guy! Rather humbling when you go in his shop and see the bikes he has got in there....straight up awesome!!
 

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Oh that dude is a magician. He does some amazing stuff


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Without a doubt!! I feel lucky to have him local.
 

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The install looks clean. What PRV speakers are those though? I‘m not trying to throw shade, but I’m not sure that a 400.4 is capable of pushing enough power to run all of that brother. Are you sure it isn’t an 800.4?
 

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The install looks clean. What PRV speakers are those though? I‘m not trying to throw shade, but I’m not sure that a 400.4 is capable of pushing enough power to run all of that brother. Are you sure it isn’t an 800.4?
They are the PRV 500-ndy-4s. I appreciate your input because I had the exact question because the PRVs love power. I put my faith in the guy that spec'd it out and tuned it. After listening to it, I understand why he has the trophies on the wall that validates he knows his stuff. The nice part was that before selecting it I had the ability to see and listen to multiple PRV systems and set ups first. My favorite system was the one I chose. He had a bike with the same set up up front running off the 400.4 with a gain control on the inside of the dash for a separate set of 10" PRVs in the bag running off a 1200.2. That was the ultimate set up.
 

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I’m familiar with DD Custom Cycles bike builds... lots of magazines and bike show awards with some impressive builds. I haven’t seen or heard of them at audio competitions though, so I don’t think the trophies are from audio.

Again, not throwing shade... if you are happy that is all that matters.

I’m just curios how they have it all powered, because the amp power specs doen’t seem to line up with the speaker power specs. A 400.4 is only capable of putting out 446W total when bridged to 2 channels. I have one in my glide just running my four tweeters at 50W each. Your speakers are capable of handling 250-500W each. Your tweeters would soak up the 50W per channel from a 400.4 with a smile. The 1200.2 you mention only puts out 1338W total when bridged to 1 channel, and to drive two 10”s the gain control nob isn’t necessary because the amp can’t push enough power to harm them. Most of the PRV 10”s can handle up to 1000W each, and if that 1200.2 is maxed out they are only pushing 669W to each speaker.

A good tune will definitely make a system clear, but it takes power to make them loud and clear. Your bike, your system, but I think that you could push more power to optimize the speakers you are running and you’ll get more sound volume at lower head unit volume levels without degrading your clarity.

Not trying to be a jerk or rain on your excitement. I completely get your enthusiasm. You are doing big things to your bike and having done many of the same upgrades to mine I know they don’t come cheap. I’m just sharing some audio specs to help pay forward the learning others have shared with me over the last couple of years in this audio game. For literally $160 more (or even less depending what they are charging you) you could go from the 400.4 to the 800.4 and double your power output. If you really wanted to get them banging, a 1200.4 would produce more power than the speakers could handle, allowing you to keep the gains low and not work the amp very hard.

Maybe food for thought and worth talking to you builder about, but either way I’m sure you will love it over the stock audio setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I’m familiar with DD Custom Cycles bike builds... lots of magazines and bike show awards with some impressive builds. I haven’t seen or heard of them at audio competitions though, so I don’t think the trophies are from audio.

Again, not throwing shade... if you are happy that is all that matters.

I’m just curios how they have it all powered, because the amp power specs doen’t seem to line up with the speaker power specs. A 400.4 is only capable of putting out 446W total when bridged to 2 channels. I have one in my glide just running my four tweeters at 50W each. Your speakers are capable of handling 250-500W each. Your tweeters would soak up the 50W per channel from a 400.4 with a smile. The 1200.2 you mention only puts out 1338W total when bridged to 1 channel, and to drive two 10”s the gain control nob isn’t necessary because the amp can’t push enough power to harm them. Most of the PRV 10”s can handle up to 1000W each, and if that 1200.2 is maxed out they are only pushing 669W to each speaker.

A good tune will definitely make a system clear, but it takes power to make them loud and clear. Your bike, your system, but I think that you could push more power to optimize the speakers you are running and you’ll get more sound volume at lower head unit volume levels without degrading your clarity.

Not trying to be a jerk or rain on your excitement. I completely get your enthusiasm. You are doing big things to your bike and having done many of the same upgrades to mine I know they don’t come cheap. I’m just sharing some audio specs to help pay forward the learning others have shared with me over the last couple of years in this audio game. For literally $160 more (or even less depending what they are charging you) you could go from the 400.4 to the 800.4 and double your power output. If you really wanted to get them banging, a 1200.4 would produce more power than the speakers could handle, allowing you to keep the gains low and not work the amp very hard.

Maybe food for thought and worth talking to you builder about, but either way I’m sure you will love it over the stock audio setup.
Thanks Re-Do, I appreciate the feedback, Many times I have read through your audio posts and can't discredit your knowledge or trials. AS you can attest to, stereos are like chasing the magical unicorn. Good chance next week the 400 will have a big brother with it.
 
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Thanks Re-Do, I appreciate the feedback, Many times I have read through your audio posts and can't discredit your knowledge or trials. AS you can attest to, stereos are like chasing the magical unicorn. Good chance next week the 400 will have a big brother with it.
I won’t profess to have knowledge, but I’ve certainly mastered the “trials”
 
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Nice. I do not know how it would compare but here are the specs on my system:

3500-watt stereo 4 Diamond audio horns, 2 Ground Zero Red Basket 6.5's in front, 2 Beyma sealed backs in the lids, 2- 10inch Faital pro in the bags, bags are ported, 2 sound digital amps, 1 Diamond audio amp, and JL Audio TwK 88 System Tuning (DSP TwK-88) and Alpine ilx 650 touch screen head unit.
 

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Nice. I do not know how it would compare but here are the specs on my system:

3500-watt stereo 4 Diamond audio horns, 2 Ground Zero Red Basket 6.5's in front, 2 Beyma sealed backs in the lids, 2- 10inch Faital pro in the bags, bags are ported, 2 sound digital amps, 1 Diamond audio amp, and JL Audio TwK 88 System Tuning (DSP TwK-88) and Alpine ilx 650 touch screen head unit.
That sounds like a pretty solid setup!

The Faital 10rs350s are a proven performer in ported bags. I’m assuming aftermarket saddlebags?

The sealed backs on the Beymas in the lids prevents air space conflicts with the Faitals. The GZ Red baskets are great speakers with solid range and excellent clarity, and the DA tweeters are strong performers for sure.

Did you build the setup, or did a shop put it together and tune it for you? I’d love to hear it, that’s for sure.
 

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I don't work at a shop, lol! I play around at the shop. Work was done by Dave Dupor at DD Custom Cycles in Lake Villa, Illinois. Great guy! Rather humbling when you go in his shop and see the bikes he has got in there....straight up awesome!!
Geez - I just got lost on DD's website for almost an hour. Some impressive work, to say the least
 

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That sounds like a pretty solid setup!

The Faital 10rs350s are a proven performer in ported bags. I’m assuming aftermarket saddlebags?

The sealed backs on the Beymas in the lids prevents air space conflicts with the Faitals. The GZ Red baskets are great speakers with solid range and excellent clarity, and the DA tweeters are strong performers for sure.

Did you build the setup, or did a shop put it together and tune it for you? I’d love to hear it, that’s for sure.
It was built...not something I could do! And there is an extra battery under the rear fender.

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