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Discussion Starter #1
I think I have symptoms of bad clutch. Please help my diagnosis, and possible cure.

Riding on I-75 north of Ocala about 80 mph, feeling increasing wobble. Could be the pavement, or my rear tire. Slowing down, wobble getting worse. So I pull over to the side. Rear tire flat. So, I arrange a tow home.

While the tread was okay by usual standards, I remove front and rear wheels and cart them to an independent for a new set of rubber. Back home, with Road Glide still on the lift, I install the wheels. Test ride revealed an issue. Rolling the throttle on, I could increase the RPM WITHOUT increasing the speed. Then on a long stretch, with RPM constant, bike went slower and slower until total no go at all.

Could I have done something wrong when installing the rear wheel. Watched a YouTube video. Removed and reinstalled rear wheel. Same problem.

Moving forward to the clutch, watched another YouTube video. I've adjusted clutch and replaced rear wheels many times. Read the shop manual, followed the instructions exactly.

So, on the one hand thinking - bad clutch. On the other hand thinking - unlikely coincidence rear tire blow out and bad clutch at same time.

I've been happy with various FuelMoto purchases over the years, so started to think about their clutch.
What do you all think about the circumstance, diagnosis, and cure?

AIM / Fuel Moto Custom Variable Pressure Clutch
 

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If your RPM's are high and your bikes slowing down, it sounds like your clutch is not grabbing but maybe slipping.

Also make sure to check your clutch reservoir fluids. If their down, you will have some slipping as well.

How is it off the line and not at cruising speeds?

The bike is telling you everything.
Make sure your reading your bike for the possible fix otherwise it's off to the dealership for diagnosis and fix.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Swomack
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If your RPM's are high and your bikes slowing down, it sounds like your clutch is not grabbing but maybe slipping.
Also make sure to check your clutch reservoir fluids. If their down, you will have some slipping as well.
How is it off the line and not at cruising speeds?
The bike is telling you everything.
Make sure your reading your bike for the possible fix otherwise it's off to the dealership for diagnosis and fix.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Swomack
Thank you Swomack for your reply. I did change the oil when the bike was on my lift, waiting for tires and wheels from the Indy. I checked and double checked the primary oil level - just barely touching the diaphragm. I use redline oils.

Off the line, now nothing.
Lots of varoom varoom, but no goon. ( Excuse my bad poetry). Yes, my bikes talk to me too.
 

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Did your 08 have a rear wheel compensator gear like the new ones do ? Also check the rear wheel sprocket again. Make sure it's good. (Splines & looseness ) Iheard of those sprockets separating from the wheel.
 

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Lots of Power, no go!

A few things to check;

1. Belt Tension, set correctly? Too loose, slippage can result, belt is not catching either in the front or the back pulley or both

2. Sounds more like clutch adjustment to me. Very easy procedure to do, it is in the service manual for the year of bike but also some great youtube videos on how to do it. Takes 10 minutes tops.

3. Did you a lose rubber piece from the cushdrive? Not likely to cause the problem you're having but serious just the same

4. Wheel bearings in the rear wheel and in the rear pulley. 08's are a bastard year for wheel bearings. They went to the 25.9mm axles that year from the 1" axles in the 07 and down bikes. Also the bearings were made narrower than previous years. You would hear much more noise and their wouldn't be a power to go problem with a bearing usually. In my 08 bike I changed the rear bearings especially with every new tire. Cheap insurance, like changing the oil and the filter regularly.

Back a couple years ago we were out for our regular weekly evening ride with the regulars and we came upon an accident. Problem was the accident was at the top of a hill and traffic was backed up down the hill and across the valley. My clutch took a beatings in that creeping,stopping, creeping, traffic climbing the hill and when we finally got clear of the accident I rolled on the throttle and nothing, tach went up but no transfer to the rear wheel. Clutch was definitely slipping. Got home let the bike cool down, researched the procedure and then went for a test drive again. Did the same thing when rolling on the throttle, lots of noise not much go. Went home adjusted the clutch, went for another ride, roll on and go.

Calgaryglide
 

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Are you adjusting the clutch right? Any other problems such as a belt or the rear wheel compensator would be easy to tell because the drive pulley would spin and the rear wheel would not move.
If the clutch is adjusted right and you still have the problem then pull the outer primary cover and pull the clutch and check the clutch plates, if the clutch is really slipping that bad the clutch steel plate should be real blue and warped. I got the HD SE clutch plates for my 08 from PC Pain and it was cheaper then the stock clutch plates and the SE clutch works real good.
Worst case scenario would be that the input or output trans shafts may have stripped splines, but if that's the case it would seem that you would hear a grinding sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you all that contributed to this thread. I now have it working good again.

Which stage did I error, I don't know. I started from scratch for this job by removing and reinstalling the rear wheel, being very careful on belt deflection, and teeth alignment. Then to the clutch, adjusting behind the Derby cover, and the clutch cable. Careful, careful. Then a test ride.

No obvious slipping of the clutch. I have not ridden my 2008 FLTR much lately. Seems to vibrate more than I remember compared to my new 2015 Dyna Wide Glide. But, it is likely "Normal."

Again, thanks to you all.
 
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