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Discussion Starter #1
Torn between stage 4 HD kit or going with gear driven cams, high compression pistons, crank work and larger throttle body. Anyone have any experience knowing which gives best performance without sacrificing reliability?
 

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Not sure. I think the CVO would probably hold its value best if left stock. Stage 4 kits might be a bit stressed, and the 110 is reportedly already running at high temperatures.

There's always a 120R crate motor, or even the Jims 131 and 135, all which put out plenty in bone stock form.

To each his own...
 

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I am interested in the same idea. Had my 103 all hopped up and it had way more torque than my 110 CVO. I am guessing there are some smart answers to be had with this crowd.


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headwork,bump the compression to 9.8-1 & install S&S .570 cams,easy 110+/115+ and "stock like" reliability.or bump the compression up to 10.5-1 and use S&S .585,woods 6H or a couple other grinds for more power with still good reliablity/dependability
 

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SE 110 heads or good heads change pistons and cams you will be real happy.the 110 lower compression what makes them a little doggie.But I like the 110 it is a very dependable touring motor.The guy who has done my machine work has nothing to say but good about the se heads.I am a big fan of weisco forged pistons.
 

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Torn between stage 4 HD kit or going with gear driven cams, high compression pistons, crank work and larger throttle body. Anyone have any experience knowing which gives best performance without sacrificing reliability?
No problem getting those 110's into the mid-120's.
A set of S&S cylinders, will pop that to a 117"er. High 130's no issue.
We have those out there with 30,000-40,000 miles going strong.:)
Scott
 

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Keep us posted on what you do. Engine work is my next move. However that probably will not happen until 14.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
bumping up the SE 110"

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think the stock pistons are 9.6:1. With head work and S&S cams, do you think the S&S 583 cams will give me the best low to mid range torque as that is what I'm after? Maybe the 10:1 or 10.5:1 pistons would give me more performance but will I sacrifice reliability? As I review the S&S dyno chart, the 583 cams seem to pull strongest from 2,000-4,500 rpm. Also, would you have crank work done while its taken apart? Should I go to a larger throttle body as well? I really want to do this right the first time. My old '02 Roadking I punched out to 96" with pistons, heads and cams and it far outperformed my stock CVO Fatboy 103" but it took a few trial and error attempts and cost me a ton.
 

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see details of what we did in my profie at bottom, 53K miles no problems, :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Jettjocky. Do you have any dyno numbers?
 

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Yes weld crank and install timken bearing. Best to have peace of mind.
 

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Right now we are doing a 100% build
We are doing
Hbeam rods
Timken weld true balance etc.,
Tman Stage 4 thumper 110cvo kit
660 cam.
SEPRO
should do very well.:D
 

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Thanks for all the suggestions. I think the stock pistons are 9.6:1. With head work and S&S cams, do you think the S&S 583 cams will give me the best low to mid range torque as that is what I'm after? Maybe the 10:1 or 10.5:1 pistons would give me more performance but will I sacrifice reliability? As I review the S&S dyno chart, the 583 cams seem to pull strongest from 2,000-4,500 rpm. Also, would you have crank work done while its taken apart? Should I go to a larger throttle body as well? I really want to do this right the first time. My old '02 Roadking I punched out to 96" with pistons, heads and cams and it far outperformed my stock CVO Fatboy 103" but it took a few trial and error attempts and cost me a ton.
The 110"ers are 9.2 cr.
103" are 9.6.
No reliability issues with more compression, tuned correctly.
Lone Wolf Performance, Vancouver Island, tuned a 110" with our heads, and a Wood 777 to 116/125, for example. 10.4 cr.
Big, broad, torque.
He pulls a trailer with that bike.:)
Scott
 

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Why even mess with a 110".There's a sponsor on here claiming 129/134 out of a 107". I have a beach front home in Arizona for sale if anyone is interested too.
I posted this same message on the HDForum.
Then check this out. 140+ from a 103"
http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index....c,50440.0.html

BTW, I drove that 107 you mention. It is a smooth runner with beastly power. Like flip over backwards in a 1st gear roll on power. Happy or whatever, it rolls.
 

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Why even mess with a 110".There's a sponsor on here claiming 129/134 out of a 107". I have a beach front home in Arizona for sale if anyone is interested too.
Not givin ya a hard time but I rode the 107 also ~ Yep I live in FL but have been to the sponsors shop twice in the last six years ~ yep I rode mine there ~ first time during the 105th and second time 2 years ago ~ He worked both of my bikes ~ not crazy numbers just solid performance, ridable and dependable.... In addition I too rode the 107 ~ not sure about the numbers but can tell you that at 70mph the rear end broke loose I rode it for about 30 miles & was thoroughly impressed ~ not designed to be a forever motor ~ I have nothin to gain by posting this just choose to spend my money with him ~ The numbers on my 103 were 110/114 and verified by another shop. 555's and type b heads ~ bump the compression with a head gasket... Above are the numbers and specs on my current CVO RG ~ the numbers have been confirmed by two shops ~ that one was done by the HD shop ~ numbers came up about 7% or so just by going to his head (from true duals).
 

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We built a 95"er(not 98") for an employee @ Horsepower Inc. the world-famous throttle body company, over 10 years ago. 143 hp.................on a Superflow dyno, no less.
Hard to believe??
Call Eric @ Horsepower Inc., Erie, PA., as during conversation with him the other day, he brought that subject up..........I hadn't thought about that in quite some time.:D
Scott
 

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We learned what works (and what doesnt) thru R&D, testing different combinations, spending hundreds of hours on the dyno, and moving forward (sometimes backward) one step at a time, not by reading forums and learning it from the internet. Getting 130Hp from a 107 is not that difficult, it just takes the right recipe, there were plenty of guys doing it nearly 10 years ago and speaking realistically 140 or more Hp is certainly possible from a well developed 107. We came up with a combination that works and posted supportive data, does anyone have any data saying differently? Kinda like a few years back when we were getting 110Hp on factory 103's with cams, heads, exhaust and a tune and there were those that said "no way", likely because it was not coming out of their favorite shop, here we are now and there are plenty of shops making those numbers and they are normal.

One last thing, unlike some others Fuel Moto does not get mixed up in behind the scenes background conspiracy and drama like some others. All you need to do is read the forums, read their posts and put together the pattern. Simply consider the source of their comments and their agenda.
 

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So in conclusion...there are a lot of options, and a lot of animosity contained in this thread. Thanks for the tips on the compression ratio options.


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There's no conspiracy here no drama just my opinion.I think your Dyno numbers are bogus.You have tuned my bikes several times.You know me my name is Kevin.I'm sure every dyno is different but everytime I dyno it after I leave your shop there's a 10hp difference.Thats been at two different Dyno's three different times.So no I dont believe your numbers I do think your a decent tuner but I also think your a Master Manipulator of the Dyno.Again that's just my opinion.
Kevin, I remember you and I know you are a close friend of Frank's, he does your work, and you use his dyno now that he has one, and that's cool. However you also have a history on this forum of discrediting other peoples work for some reason, that is not cool. As far as your dyno charts I could get into the physics and strategies on how a dyno works, or how conditions, engine temp, or what can change one dyno to another but in the end it doesnt take a rocket scientist to see whats going on here. You could not make your agenda more clear, simply take a look back at the posts you have made. So lets see the charts and the documentation showing the differences between dyno runs and we can put everything on the table for interpretation. I would be very interested in seeing any charts and supportive data from other dyno's since "everytime I dyno it after I leave your shop there's a 10hp difference" These comparisons need to be direct comparisons as well, same components and within a specific window of when we tested your bike here. Last I remember when your bike was here it was 180 or so HP, if you made runs on a different dyno making 10 or so HP less thats only about a 6% variance which is absolutely possible and normal based on conditions alone, let alone many other factors. A dyno uses simple laws of physics.
 
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