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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please excuse the length of my post but I need some help/advice--

I am having problems with the engine and electrical system of my bike (2012 RG CVO with 35,000 miles; stage 1). In the last few months I have needed to swap out the ACRs (2x), cam tensioner, compensator, voltage regulator, battery and stator. Fortunately I have an ESP.

The bike is still making a horrible racket and gets real hot. So much so that I need to get of the bike because the seat is heating up so much. Not the normal Harley heat, this seat gets abnormally hot. The tapping/banging noise seems to get worse under load. Sounds like it is coming from the front to front/left.

Also, at cold starts it will die. I have to try a number of times and then take off or it will shut off. If I have to stop within the first few minutes of riding it will turn off.

Also, the bike shakes almost uncontrollably when idling. I think it is less when the clutch is pulled in but in neutral it is shaking much more that the norm. It seems like it wants to shake itself loose or is about to shut itself off if I don’t give it a small twist of the throttle.

The mechanic that most recently worked on it told me that he thinks the crank is going bad. Something is loose or shifted or the rods are done or whatever else it could be. I am not a gearhead. He then said that the ESP won’t cover the work to break down the engine unless the crank is indeed damaged. I do not know if the crank is bad but something is definitely wrong.

The mechanic/shop then told me to ride it until the engine just dies, then he will be justified in going in to fix b/c he will be able to ID the problem. That seems off to me. I have no doubt that severe damage is being done to the bike and suspect that the engine issues and resulting extreme heat is damaging the electrical system. I just think if I wait too much damage will be done to the bike.

Any thoughts on the issue?

Any advice on a good shop in South Florida that will honor the ESP?

Does “ride it till it dies” make sense to you? Not to me but I also ain't in Mensa. Much appreciated.
 

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Esp

GlidY- No ride till "die" here. plus not riding bike that'll possibly lock-up/unglue or meltdown over 100 mile to dealer. The ESP is wishy on take measures to prevent further damage. Does pay good expenses,
this is what your bike will look like coming back and taking it the to your covered repair shop of choice vs one in BFE

2nd edit
 

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Unfortunately your wrench is correct. ESP does not cover diagnosis, just repair. It's in the contract you bought.

That's being said, IF, the wrench actually wanted to make the money they'll pay him, he'd find out what's wrong and file the claim. Lifters and cams on my '11 were getting noisy and I told my dealer about it. They tore it apart and sure enough, I have maybe 10k miles left on those parts. They turned it in and got all their money from the ESP. If he has to dig into the crank and that's not the issue, it's on him for a bad diagnosis.
 

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A good mechanic can tell if the crank is going bad without cracking open the crankcase. In most cases doing a Crank Runout check in the cam chest will tell if the crank and crank bearings are going bad.

Did you check for DTC codes???? There is a sticky in the troubleshooting section that will tell you how to check the DTCs and what the codes mean.

The main question is did the noise exist before you had the work you mentioned done or did the noise just start recently???

If the noise and running issues just started then I would check and see if some of the recent work is the problem, you could have a loose compensator nut or one of the ACRs might not be closing completely causing low compression on one cylinder which would result a unbalanced engine.

There are simple tests you can do yourself that may diagnose the problem, you can buy or borrow a compression tester and check the compression and you can also get a mechanic's stethoscope and see if you can find the noise when the engine is running.
Also don't overlook the lifters, if the roller bearings on the lifters are going bad the engine can and will run rough and noisy and cause running problems.

I doubt that the electrical system is a problem if all the connections are tight and clean. A loose electrical connection can produce heat but if the heat that you mentioned is that bad it would seem that you could smell the insulation on the wires burning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Ironmark: I will check codes later today. Great sticky.

The ACRs, tensioner, compensator were replaced post the loud noise and idle issues. The startup issue after I took it to last mechanic to do above work to remedy loud noise. Rather than leave the bike I left. Knew I needed another wrench. Note: all of the work I mentioned has been at different mechanics.

Compression was way off in front cylinder but last mechanic said good to go know. He did use a stethoscope and could not pinpoint issue. Pretty sure he did not do a crank runout.

Thanks. Was hoping you would be one of the folks to chime in.

EDIT: No codes
 

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Update: Ok so the roller tappets (all the lifters) failed and caused other stuff to go in the motor..basically the cams and needle bearings.

The idle issue was clogged up O2 sensors.
Did you find a better mechanic or did it fail on you going down the road ? I guess esp got you covered either way.
 

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Glad you found the problem! The lifters can cause a lot of running problems. The problem with most mechanics when they go into the cam chest is that they don't pull and inspect the lifters they just use the clips to hold the lifters up out of the way, it takes a little extra time to pull the lifter blocks and inspect the lifters, with the quality of the lifters now a days it is something that should be done every time the cam chest is opened up. JMO
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Glad you found the problem! The lifters can cause a lot of running problems. The problem with most mechanics when they go into the cam chest is that they don't pull and inspect the lifters they just use the clips to hold the lifters up out of the way, it takes a little extra time to pull the lifter blocks and inspect the lifters, with the quality of the lifters now a days it is something that should be done every time the cam chest is opened up. JMO

Thanks. I've been reading that a lot of guys swap out lifters every 15-30K miles (it varies) to avoid this. Some do cams at the same time. Particularly with the 110. Don't know if it makes sense with still two years on ESP but wondering what you think.
 

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Thanks. I've been reading that a lot of guys swap out lifters every 15-30K miles (it varies) to avoid this. Some do cams at the same time. Particularly with the 110. Don't know if it makes sense with still two years on ESP but wondering what you think.
It all depends it is just a roll of the dice. The older HD "B" style lifters were made by Delphi ad they are pretty good lifters, the newer HD "C" style lifters are made in Mexico and they have a history of failure. Also the HD SE lifters are made by Jims and they don't last very long either, my HD SE lifters went out with less than 10,000 miles on them.
Right now I am using the Melling lifters for a Chevy 350 and they only cost $12 each at Autozone, the jury is still out on how long the Melling lifter last but they perform very well in my bike.
If you have adjustable pushrods it is a easy DIY to swap lifters and if you use the Melling lifters it isn't very expensive to do a lifter swap, in most cases you can reuse the lifter block gaskets too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It all depends it is just a roll of the dice. The older HD "B" style lifters were made by Delphi ad they are pretty good lifters, the newer HD "C" style lifters are made in Mexico and they have a history of failure. Also the HD SE lifters are made by Jims and they don't last very long either, my HD SE lifters went out with less than 10,000 miles on them.

Right now I am using the Melling lifters for a Chevy 350 and they only cost $12 each at Autozone, the jury is still out on how long the Melling lifter last but they perform very well in my bike.

If you have adjustable pushrods it is a easy DIY to swap lifters and if you use the Melling lifters it isn't very expensive to do a lifter swap, in most cases you can reuse the lifter block gaskets too.

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
 
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