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Discussion Starter #1
Hello. This is my first attempt at posting a DIY. I will attempt to document how to install the Harley Davidson Boom fairing speakers. Your constructive criticism is welcome.

First, I like to place the bike on a jack. It just seems easier when the bike is higher, and also allows easy turning of the forks to access the bolts on the lower fairing mount.

Next, protect your fender and tank. Do this anytime you mess around with the front end of your bike. Also, pull the main fuse anytime you are un-plugging the harness, splicing wires, etc...
There is a great video on the forum that describes how to remove and install your front fairing. But those lower fairing bolts that thread into the turn signal housings can be a problem. Sometimes, instead of the nut backing off the stud, the entire stud comes out of the housing with nut attached:

A quick fix for this is to run a couple 5/16-18 nuts onto the threads and tighten them together:

Then put one wrench on the set of nuts you added, put another wrench on the acorn nut you wished had backed-off initially, and remove the acorn nut.
A couple thoughts on the common types of Loctite we use on our bikes. There are two primary types: red and blue.

The red Loctite is used when the HD service manual says to. Which is when you don't plan on removing the nut/bolt often, and then may require some heating of the nut/bolt to get it free. The blue stuff is for nuts and bolts that must be removed often for service, but are susceptible to vibration loosening. I noticed that the factory had red Loctite on one of the two studs on my lower fairing. The red Loctite should be applied to the threads that are inserted into the turn signal housing. The opposite end, where the acorn nit eventually threads onto, has an internal hex:

Which is used to drive the stud into the lit housing:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Once the fairing is off, your speakers will look like the, if you still have the stock ones in place:

Take yourphillips and remove the four screws that hold the speaker in place:

Then there are three screws with torx heads that hold the speaker spacer/grill in place:

The spacer came out without having to remove the nut at the top, but you should remove this nut to allow the re-install without drama.

Here is the box with the new Boom speakers...

And here is what is contained therein:

Two speakers, two new grilles with tweeters, two pieces of weather stripping, and instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Now you remove the stock speaker grille from the spacer. The fabric grille is held in place by a few pieces of two-sided tape. Simply push the fabric from the back side near the edge, and it will detach from the taoe:

Notice that the grille fabric has a few notches cut where the spacers slots are located.
Once the grille is removed and whatever remains of the double sided tape is also removed (I just rubbed my thumb on one end to start it rolling, and it came right off with a few more rubs)' you are ready to go.

The next step is to apply the weather stripping to the new speaker grill. The weather stripping has adhesive on the backside. I find it best to remove a few inches of the backing that overs the adhesive to start. Apply the adhesive side to the grilled and work your way around the perimeter, peeling a couple inches of the backing off as you go. I didn't stretch the weather stripping as I applied it to the grille, but still had a bit of overlap when I made the 360 degree application.

Once the weather stripping is applied, I notched it in the locations where the metal Boom speaker grille had notches. Ok, I first tried to install without notching, but quickly learned the error of that approach. Here is a view of the notches, with weather stripping on the opposite side that was removed in the notch locations(used a side cutter):

Next, I installed the Boom speaker to the new grille and the stock spacer, and attached the two leads from the tweeter to the pcb spade terminals on the back of the speaker.

The HD instructions have you route the tweeter leads through a notch in the speaker grille, which allows the leads to cleanly pass between the spacer and grille. It's nary impossible to wire the speakers up improperly, as the spade terminals are sized differently.
Here is what the assembly looks like from the front:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
You may be wondering how the stock speakers compare to the Boom speakers. Here is a shot of the two, side-by-side:

The stock speaker has the tweeter incorporated into the main loudspeaker. This design effectively reduces the surface area of the main speaker cone.
The next step is to install the grille, spacer and speaker assembly into the fairing. The grille is held in place by the spacer. The spacer is held into the fairing by three screws with torx heads. The tin nut that threads onto the plastic stud helps keep the speaker/spacer/grille assembly flush to the outboard side of the fairing.

Then attach the two leads from the wiring harness onto the two remaining spade terminals on the pcb that's on the back of the speaker:

Again, hard to do this wrong. The "-" terminals are attached to the same electrical point on the pcb. The tweet goes on the smallest spade terminal, and the loudspeaker goes on the other "+" terminal - the medium sized one.
Now you have installed the Boom speaker, and it looks like this from the cockpit:


Put your fairing back on and crank the volume.

So, what do I think of the Boom speakers? Compared to the stock speakers, the Boom speakers are louder, have more clarity, and more more bass. I can hear music clearly on the freeway. I can't listen to the Boom speakers at full volume, as the loudness of the speakers hurt my ears. The Boom speakers don't distort, at volumes my ears can take anyway.

One final suggestion. If you don't already own the service manual for your year scooter, get it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I hope this post helps someone along the way. The lesson I learned is that the camera on my iPad is not so hot for this type of documentation. I have a good camera, but the iPad was sitting there on the workbench, so I used it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, ten minutes to get the fairing off, a couple minutes on the studs, two minutes to remove stock speakers, five minutes to remove the cloth grilles add weathetstrip, three minutes to install and connect, and then a half hour to get the fairing back on without pinching the turn signal wires.... I pinched one side previously when I had to fish a well nut out of the fairing. And I was being so careful, too.
For the price of the Boom speakers, I think it is a good value for the improvement they provide. Will I be satisfied with them long-term: probably not. But I have so many other, higher priority items, I want to purchase.....
 

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Great instrutions, just installed my set of Boom speakers in the fairing this weekend. Only took about an hour, and sound much better then the stock speakers. :D
 

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+1, did the install today... Sound and look great. Was inspired by your thread so thank you! My .02¢. The instructions call for torquing the screws to 6-12 in/lbs. I went for 10 in/lbs and could see the plastic/ metal starting to warp. Go slow and when you see any deformation call it tight enough. :)
 

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They're the same as stock... Tiny. Youre really just getting the tweeter out of the way but it seems to work.
 

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great job man
 

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i had that set up...but i am going to be getting some rockford fosgate the second time around...just want more boom.
 

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Did the install today. Wow! Speakers sound great. No problems with the install and didn't take the headlights out, just lined them up, massaged and voila! 3 wellnuts fell out as well. Saw the gouges left by the radio bracket, not sure if this will be a problem down the road. Changed my bulbs at the same time. Great write up here, made it much easier. Thanks!!!
 
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