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Will a cam crank locking tool for a 96 fit a 103? I think the bottom ends on these motors are the same but I thought it would be safe to ask before buying the tool. Thanks. NORM
 

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Hopefully someone with some real knowledge will jump in here for you. All I can say is I ordered one for a 96" thinking the same as you but I can't get the damn thing to fit. Should have done what you're doing, asked for advice.
 

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I may just have a friend sit on the bike with the brake on but if I could get that locking block for 20 bucks I may just go with that instead.
 

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The cam crank locking tool came in two flavors, 2006 & prior, 2007 & later. I've done cam swaps by holding the brakes but it is much nicer to use the correct tool.
 

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Will a cam crank locking tool for a 96 fit a 103? I think the bottom ends on these motors are the same but I thought it would be safe to ask before buying the tool. Thanks. NORM
The short answer is yes, it should, since the blocks are '06 and earlier and conversely '07 and up. If I didn't have my bikes nestled in for winter I could pull my 103 cam cover and check.
 

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I never used one, I just put the bike in gear and held the brake down with one hand and loosen/tighten the bolts that way.
The bolts aren't that tight anyways the cam sprocket bolt is only torqued to 34 ft lbs and the crank sprocket bolt is only torqued to 24 ft lbs.
 
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I never used one, I just put the bike in gear and held the brake down with one hand and loosen/tighten the bolts that way.
The bolts aren't that tight anyways the cam sprocket bolt is only torqued to 34 ft lbs and the crank sprocket bolt is only torqued to 24 ft lbs.
Sounds like I do it too. On the primary side I use a composite hammer handle and put it on the chain and wedge it into the teeth when I'm breaking it loose. Of course, I've also cut a piece of flat stock cut to length that goes at about 60 degree angle between the clutch hub teeth and the compensator teeth. Easy to make.
 

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Sounds like I do it too. On the primary side I use a composite hammer handle and put it on the chain and wedge it into the teeth when I'm breaking it loose. Of course, I've also cut a piece of flat stock cut to length that goes at about 60 degree angle between the clutch hub teeth and the compensator teeth. Easy to make.
The primary locking tool is easy to make out of a piece of 1/4 x 1 1/4 flat stock.
You definitely need to lock the primary to loosen /tighten the compensator and clutch hub because the torque values are much higher.
 
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