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Which Woods cam is that? What tuner are you going to use. Interested in the results.

That should wake up your bike.
 

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Was going well pretty well until I got to the lifter cuffs. One of the bolts broke off. Too much locktite, I'm guessing. It was just at the dealer for a set of lifters in October......
ouch.
do you have a plan for getting it out?

thanks for posting up. love to see the heart of a bike exposed like this!
engine porn lol
 

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Was going well pretty well until I got to the lifter cuffs. One of the bolts broke off. Too much locktite, I'm guessing. It was just at the dealer for a set of lifters in October......
At least you have a little sticking up to grab. May not even need to weld a nut to it if you heat the area around it and turn whats left with vice grips.
 

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You should have enough to grab and remove the rest of that bolt. Lucky it didn’t snap flush. My S&S lifter cuffs came with replacement bolts. If you have the ability, check your crank runout and post up your results.

Do yourself a favor and make sure that you have the updated oil pump plate before you put it together.
 

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I know this doesn't help you now but when I get a bolt that feels like there is a lot of locktight I go back and forth several times as I back it out. May not have worked on that bolt but I've had great success with it. I was also going to mention that you make sure you get the latest oil pumo back plate part# 62400206 if you haven't already lke Desertwndrr mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Which Woods cam is that? What tuner are you going to use. Interested in the results.

That should wake up your bike.
It's the Woods 222 and a Power Vision tuner. The guys at Fuel Moto loaded a map that they say will bring it to somewhere near 110-115 hp and 120 ft lbs of tq. Sounds pretty good to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ouch.
do you have a plan for getting it out?

thanks for posting up. love to see the heart of a bike exposed like this!
engine porn lol
At least you have a little sticking up to grab. May not even need to weld a nut to it if you heat the area around it and turn whats left with vice grips.
You should have enough to grab and remove the rest of that bolt. Lucky it didn’t snap flush. My S&S lifter cuffs came with replacement bolts. If you have the ability, check your crank runout and post up your results.

I was able to get the bolt out fairly easily. A little bit of heat and some patience got the job done.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You should have enough to grab and remove the rest of that bolt. Lucky it didn’t snap flush. My S&S lifter cuffs came with replacement bolts. If you have the ability, check your crank runout and post up your results.

Do yourself a favor and make sure that you have the updated oil pump plate before you put it together.
I wish I thought to check the s&s cuffs before I bought the new bolts from the dealer......Also wish I thought to check runout on the crank. I guess I was in a hurry to close up the cam chest.

I know this doesn't help you now but when I get a bolt that feels like there is a lot of locktight I go back and forth several times as I back it out. May not have worked on that bolt but I've had great success with it. I was also going to mention that you make sure you get the latest oil pumo back plate part# 62400206 if you haven't already lke Desertwndrr mentioned.
The bike was at the dealer for lifters and the updated oil pump in October. I suspect they over torqued the bolt as well as the excessive amount of locktite they used as it broke as I was cracking the bolt loose....
 

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For the guys mentioning crank runout, how much is too much? And what do you do if it's too much?

I'm looking to install cams in the next few weeks and am curious about this.

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You should have enough to grab and remove the rest of that bolt. Lucky it didn’t snap flush. My S&S lifter cuffs came with replacement bolts. If you have the ability, check your crank runout and post up your results.

So I decided to reopen the cam chest as I hadn't gotten any further than the cover las weekend. I checked the crank for run out and it's at .003" which seems acceptable.
 

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Your crank run out is great HD accepts crank run out up to .012. Also crank run out isn't that critical unless you are switching to cam gears. Just take a propane torch and heat up the broken bolt to loosen up the lock tight and then get a hold of bolt with a good set of Vise Grips and it should come right out. Don't use a acetylene torch because the heat would be too high and it would melt the aluminum. Also welding a nut is not a good thing to do because weld spatter can get inside the engine or melt into the aluminum. I never used lock tight on the lifter or cam chest bolts and I never had any issues. Good luck!
 
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