That's the oil pan. There is a drain hole that you normally don't pull out. That's where the small amount of oil comes from. It's the oil pan basically.Thanks guys,
The bearings have been previously changed when whomever did the cam swap. Bike still retained original push rods as well.
My plan is to replace cams, and bearings. I had also thought about rebuilding or throwing a new oil pump on as well and planned to pull the bypass valve and make sure the passages are clean. basically thoroughly clean the cam chest area and all associated parts.
Dropping the oil pan, hadn't thought of that one and I like that. consider that added to the list.
Quick observation was only tensioner pad chunks were in the bottom of the cam chest. Really there are tiny orange pieces strewn thru out the cam chest. No metal pieces. I'm sure there are shavings or grindings is more applicable in there. The secondary tensioner looks like it was put on the grinding wheel basically. Oddly enough I googled what a tensioner was supposed to look like on google images to show a friend the difference and one of the pics looked just like mine. I will add a couple other pics here.
Smarty, You suggested draining out the "Sump". I'm unfamiliar with this area or how to perform this at the moment. Or if you're referring to the oil pan as the sump.
Once again, Thanks for the suggestions.
This pic shows the outer tensioner and some tiny orange pieces on the outside of the cam plate.
Bill, I would go ahead and change the cam and lifters as well once you have everything else cleaned up and sure there is not any metal and debris thru out the engine. You are in there, do it right and you won't have to do it again. Also, how many miles do you have on the bike. If it's over 50,000 miles, while you had it apart, I would go ahead and freshen it up with a hone and new rings. That's of course if you are doing this yourself.I didn't think it was bad. Altho I didn't give it a real close exam. I will go take a few pics tonight after I get home.