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Discussion Starter #1
So starting to look at cam chest options for 2016 RGU

S&S or Fueling?
Chain or Gear?

Not too worried about going crazy with performance. It’s an RGU. Just want a little more pep on the highway and reliability. Mostly reliability for commute and long rides. Plan on changing some top end valve train items too.


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Discussion Starter #2
I’m tracking on the requirements for gear drive on the bottom end.
Really am looking for quality of product info. What people feel like is good bang for the buck.
Plan on doing work myself. Minus and crank runout issues or marching work.


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I’m tracking on the requirements for gear drive on the bottom end.
Really am looking for quality of product info. What people feel like is good bang for the buck.
Plan on doing work myself. Minus and crank runout issues or marching work.


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Most people stick with chain drive cams because the crankshaft runout has to be near perfect and you will get noise from a gear drive cam. As far as updating the cam plate and oil pump I don't see this as a necessity unless there is an issue with yours since you are not going for a very high performance build. Just check your cam plate for any warpage and check the oil pump gerotors for wear and scratches to see if everything is within spec and run it if all checks out. If you do have to replace them then replacing them with stock is fine and if you just want to change just because then either of the 2 you mentioned above are more than adequate and I wouldn't put one over the other. Check the cam chain tensioner shoes for wear and replace them if needed and you go back with a chain drive cam. HD wants to sell you the whole shoe assembly for about $45ea but you can get just the replacement plastic shoes from fueling for a good deal less.


If you had an M8 then yes I would recommend upgrading the cam plate/oil pump to help deal with possible sumping issues but with a TC and just a cam upgrade it's not really needed. Spend your money elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the feedback.
If everything checks out should I still change the lifters since I have to do the pushrods or same thing with those. Just check and put put back in if all good. Thanks for the tensioner input. If I’m going to take it all apart I feel it would be a waist to not buy those upfront.


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If your swapping out the cam you SHOULD go with a set of new lifters. (Wear pattern has developed with the existing cam lobes) and if you replace the pushrods you’ll have to cut those out and replace them with a set of adjustable ones; unless of course your disassembling the top end. I just completed a cam swap on my ‘18. It’s a straightforward job. I just pulled the trigger on a Fuel Moto 117” big bore kit and larger injectiors, hat I’ll be installing myself. ��
 

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I failed mention the lifters and yes I would change them out no question. S&S standards are a great choice unless you are going to a .600 lift cam in which case I would suggest the S&S Premiums. Then again if you are going to a .600 lift cam you are going to change quite a few more parts.>:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is all good info. Should have been a no brainer with metal on metal contact rotating under pressure. I think I’m doing the cam job just for the fun of it. I am a aircraft mechanic by trade and have a service manual so I should be good. But no better info than someone that has been in it. Now for the cam choice? I hear a ton of opinions. I have ordered parts from FuelMoto before. I have their 2into1 exhaust, a/c and power vision.


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This is all good info. Should have been a no brainer with metal on metal contact rotating under pressure. I think I’m doing the cam job just for the fun of it. I am a aircraft mechanic by trade and have a service manual so I should be
good. But no better info than someone that has been in it. Now for the cam choice? I hear a ton of opinions. I have ordered parts from FuelMoto before. I have their 2into1 exhaust, a/c and power vision.


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Give Fuelmoto a call with advice on a cam choice, they have fantastic customer/tech service and will steer you in the right vectors! If you can work on fixed wing aircraft this is a walk in the park, (cam swap). I use to work on airliners myself, now I fly em. Good luck brother!
 

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This is all good info. Should have been a no brainer with metal on metal contact rotating under pressure. I think I’m doing the cam job just for the fun of it. I am a aircraft mechanic by trade and have a service manual so I should be good. But no better info than someone that has been in it. Now for the cam choice? I hear a ton of opinions. I have ordered parts from FuelMoto before. I have their 2into1 exhaust, a/c and power vision.


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One more thing that I meant to bring up is inner cam bearings. You will definitely want to change those out to the Torrington style bearings. Fueling has some and you can get them in a cam install kit that includes all your necessary gaskets and o-rings etc... You will need a bearing puller and a cam install plate that can be rather expensive. You may be able to borrow or rent one in your area.


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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah I’ve seen those prices. That’s a lot for something I may use 4 or 5 times in a lifetime.


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