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I did the JB weld when one of those went south on me (stripped threads)...here's what I did.

Use JB weld...once it starts to set take the screw and screw it in. Prior to doing so, take your wife's cooking "Pam" spray and apply liberally to the screw. This will help keep the epoxy from sticking to the screw. Let the epoxy dry and screw out the screw...your done...worked for me with no issues what so ever. Have taken off outer fairing several times once repaired...sorry I have no pics.

Good luck
 

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^^^^^^^^^same here, do it above 70 degrees and let set for good 12 hrs, plus thin out the jb with denatured alcohol, or use rubber cover repair, I'll find some pic's
 

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they somewhere, but those or pieces of the inner fairing repaired with the flexible, dremeled down before paint, can't tell. It will help if use a soldering iron to kinda melt/weld to hold first, align prefectly, you can do it. Also use the screw to thread up&down slightly after several hours of drying to make sure it will hold tork. Don't even try superglue. prep up the surrounding area (scotch bite or dremel) alcohol wipe and thin out the jb, works everytime. On your pic, you are gonna havta build the repair up
 

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Those are great suggestions and ill have to give that a try but it looks like (in the posted pics) that there's actually pieces of it missing. Can the J-B weld still be used
 

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I don't personally use the JB weld. I use the products from Fusor. They have numerous 2 part epoxies for ABS, Fiberglass, & steel. They are expensive but we'll worth it. You can mold and shape it also.
 

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Those are great suggestions and ill have to give that a try but it looks like (in the posted pics) that there's actually pieces of it missing. Can the J-B weld still be used
If you are going to use JB weld i would suggest using the two part stick version. It is like play dough and will be easier to shape.
 

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And ya havta build sparinly on the westside for it to close up, might think bout going to hardware supply-get lil threaded brass, like the wellnut without the rubber and cement it there, with the right head size or nylon washer to snug, shoulda been engineered like that in the 1st place...
 

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I hate to burst your balloon but with the piece broken off any repair will fail over time.
Call PC Pain (Jon) at Horny Toad HD and order a new PAINTED outer fairing. A new outer fairing is cheaper than you think and it is cheaper than buying a used outer fairing and having to have it painted, also a used outer fairing may have stripped holes or wear where the radio bracket rubbed on the outer fairing.
I got a new Painted outer fairing from PC Pain for around $375 +/- shipped to my door.
If you have a custom paint job and need to repaint then the Primered outer fairing cost less.
 

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I have the missing piece
Since you have the pieces get the JB weld like I mentioned before. Fill the screw hole with it, then tape the other pieces back on there before the jb weld sets up. Go to an auto parts store that sells auto body supplies and get a repair kit for it, I am thinking the outer is PPO, but you will have to google it to make sure. The repair kit will come with two tubes and some mat. The mat will give the broken pieces strength.
 

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Have done the mat too, works fine to strenghten and to build on, and no one knows, to say. Have had the almost exact damage and repair (put piece back on) current 03 (and have done on at least 3 others), have taken outer off 4or5x's since no promens, closely you will see the spidercracks on the outer from crash.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am going to be getting some time off for the holidays and think I will get this done. I think i have enough idea's to make this thing work. Thank you all of you for all your help. I will post pictures as I resolve this.
Thank again..
 

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Surface Prep

Tools that will help.

-Tongue depressors, wooden ones (mixing tools, application tool)
-Piece of plywood covered with clear plastice like a ziplock bag, this will be your mixing board for the JB weld. The plastic will keep it from sticking to the plywood and make it reusable
-Pam cooking spray (acts as Release Agent)
-Electrical Contact Cleaner
-disposable mechanics gloves, Grease Monkey brand or similar vinyl or latex gloves
-trouble light or infra red brooder lamp


1. Sand the area around the repair with a good coarse grit sandpaper, 60-80 grit.
2. Sand in multiple directions to create a cross hatch pattern
3. Do not touch the surface with your bare hand, this will contaminate it. touch it only with a gloved hand, I use grease monkey XXL gloves, handy for around the shop
4. Clean and degrease after the surface prep with electrical contact cleaner, clean your pieces you want to fit back in as well. Do not touch anything that you want the epoxy to adhere too with your bare hands. Mask the repair area with duct tape.
5. Spray the screw with Pam cooking spray, multiple light coats, not dripping wet. Let it air dry between coats, minimum 2 coats to make sure all threads are coated
6. When you are ready, mix initially a small amount of JB weld, just enough to hold the pieces and the screw in place.

** Tip after mixing the JB weld, spread it out thin on the mixing board, this will give you a longer working life, The product is exothermic or thixotropic or something like that, basically if you leave it in a lump on the mixing board it will "kickoff" faster.**

7. After the screw is held in place, mix more JB weld and screed it into the the reinforcing cloth. Spread some JB weld all over the area where the cloth will contact the surface.
8. Lay the cloth onto the surface from the bottom to the top, going over top of the screw buttress. By laying from bottom to top you can eliminate any air pockects within between the epoxy applied to the surface and the epoxy in the cloth or matting.
9. Press firmly smoothing from the middle to the out side edges. You can use a tongue depressor to help with this.
10 Immediately when you are done with the repair, remove the masking tape and using your gloved hand dip your fingers in clean water and smooth the edges of the repair area.
11. Shine the trouble light or infra red brood lamp onto the repair area for a couple of hours. Distance to repair from light should be about 20-24 inches. The heat from the lamp will speed up the chemical reaction and also increase the bond strength of the repair area.
12. Because of the Pam cooking spray coating the screw, you can back it out and then reassemble. Remember to not over-tighten that screw when you put it back in.

This should result in a strong smooth repair that will not interfere with the fit of the outer faring onto the inner faring.


Regards,

Calgaryglide
 
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