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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking into getting the cerwin vega bomber amp. What else do I need to hook it to the stock stereo? I'm not sure what hardware comes with it.
 

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Hey Norm. To use one of CV's Stealth Bomber AMPs you'll need;

1. 8 or 10 gauge positive wire for running power from battery to AMP
2. In line fuse for power wire from battery to AMP (40A to 50A)
3. 8 or 10 gauge negative wire for ground. Termination point of this ground wire has been debated ranging from connecting to the frame fairing mount, directly to the negative lead of the battery or the whole system common ground point near the battery. On mine I terminated the ground wire at the whole system common ground point near the battery.
4. 18 to 20 gauge remote turn on wire
5. Line out converter (converts the high level speaker outputs from the head unit to RCA low level inputs for the AMP) I recommend the Biketronics BT355 if you can swing it.
6. 2-4' RCA cable for connecting line out converter to the AMP
7. Some extra speaker wire to go from AMP to speakers

Not sure if you're replacing speakers as well, but if so you may need compatible terminals so you can connect your speaker wires to the speakers. The Harley terminals are designed specifically for the Harley speakers.

Depending on how (or if) you plan to do any splicing you'll need some type of crimp terminals or a solder iron and heat shrink tubing.

If you are going to connect your remote turn on wire to another switch powered wire (the cigarette lighter for example) you'll need a t-type terminal or some other method of joining the wires.

There are some suppliers who offer complete AMP install wiring kits and depending on which one you get they are only marginally more expensive than buying the parts and pieces individually.

Since I like doing my own thing I purchased all of the parts and pieces individually.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's a list of hardware. Thanks for taking the time to share it. My passion is the motor and moving parts but I do like my tunes. I'm on my second set of stock speakers. lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is there a line out adapter that will work that doesn't cost $75?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
will I need two line out adapters if I have rear speakers as well? I'm just wondering about the fader. Thanks.
 

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You will need two line out adapters if you want to use the fader option. or you can tune the amp and use y-rca splitters to split the signal. You dont need the fader then.
You will have to get the bike flashed to enable the fader option at the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I noticed that that line out adapter he recommended was for a '15up so you didn't need the reflash. Mine is a 2011. I am totally new to playing with the stereo on this.
 

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You need a PAC SNI-35 converter.
Yep, the PAC SNI-35 will work as well. So will the PAC SNI-15 and if you can't find either of those local you can hit up a local Best Buy (if you have one) and pick up one of their Metra TC-LOC2 for about $15 bucks. I've personally used all four now in search of the "perfect" solution.

Finally settled on the BT355 because I'm on a 2015 bike with terrible EQ when the bike is running. However, in truth the CV Bomber series do have a variable HPF adjustment so you can achieve almost the same results as the BT355.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. Will I still need to get the radio flashed if I install an amp?
 

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If you already have the correct .bin file for 4 speakers (with fader control) you would probably want to wait on the flash and see what you can achieve by tuning the AMP. Apparently the dealer flash is hit and miss and as many people have screwed stuff up as they have fixed stuff by letting the dealer flash the firmware.

Apparently there are so many options in there with the HDTech software, coupled with a lack of knowledge/experience at the dealerships it has been a real crap shoot. Add to that the HDTech options seem to change with every software update things have become a real mess.

That is why so many users have just gone straight to the BT355 LOC from Biketronics. Bill and his team have done a fine job filtering out the crap that creates distortion after amplification. According to Bill they use a triple filtering system and then allow the end user to adjust both the gain and HPF filter on each channel. Although the units come preset from Bill after hours of research on semi-optimal settings that appear to work well with the majority of bikes regardless of AMP and software combination.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks.
 

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If the op don't mind me jumping in on this topic, i just got a 2016 road glide special. Only replacing front speakers and plan on going with the Cewin Vega B2 amp. Any reason why i would need the biketeonics converter or would the best buy solution work just as good for allot less?


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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However, in truth the CV Bomber series do have a variable HPF adjustment so you can achieve almost the same results as the BT355.
Wevs, school me here... why do you not need a LOC with the CV Bomber series amp? So the adjustable HPF accounts for the variation in single from the HU? No need for a LOC? Can someone with this configuration chime in here? Will it sound the same with or without an LOC? What is the setting and how do you adjust for it with this amp?
 

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Wevs, school me here... why do you not need a LOC with the CV Bomber series amp? So the adjustable HPF accounts for the variation in single from the HU? No need for a LOC? Can someone with this configuration chime in here? Will it sound the same with or without an LOC? What is the setting and how do you adjust for it with this amp?
You still need a LOC to use the Cerwin-Vega B2 because it only has low level RCA inputs. You have to have some way to convert the high level speaker wire outputs to low level RCA inputs for the AMP. The only question is how you want to go about it. When I originally did my AMP install I tried two different "off the shelf" LOCs. The Metra LOC and the PAC LOC. Both worked fine, but I kept thinking that I was leaving some quality / amplification on the table. The audio gurus over at HDForums convinced me to give the BT355 a try and I'm glad that I did.

With the BT355 you can leave the AMP setting at Full Pass and the Biketronics Line Out Converter takes care of the filtering. If you want to use any other LOC, you might need to use the HPF setting on the AMP and tune accordingly.

Again, I want to stress..... If you're going to use the stock HU with the Cerwin-Vega AMP you WILL NEED a line out converter. The only question is whether you want to skimp on the LOC and go with Metra, PAC etc. or jump right in and make the investment with the BT355. In the end I'm glad that I ended up with the BT355.
 

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Thanks Wevs. Greatly appreciate the input. I ended up ordering the BT2180.14 for my 2015 FLTRXS and will hook them up to my ARC Moto 602's. This amp kit from BT includes a mounting bracket and all connections that make this plug and play (hopefully). I will post my perceived results once I install my amp.
 

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Thanks Wevs. Greatly appreciate the input. I ended up ordering the BT2180.14 for my 2015 FLTRXS and will hook them up to my ARC Moto 602's. This amp kit from BT includes a mounting bracket and all connections that make this plug and play (hopefully). I will post my perceived results once I install my amp.
Excellent choice. Great components and BT is a stand up company. I think you'll be really happy with your choice. Congrats!
 

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You still need a LOC to use the Cerwin-Vega B2 because it only has low level RCA inputs. You have to have some way to convert the high level speaker wire outputs to low level RCA inputs for the AMP. The only question is how you want to go about it. When I originally did my AMP install I tried two different "off the shelf" LOCs. The Metra LOC and the PAC LOC. Both worked fine, but I kept thinking that I was leaving some quality / amplification on the table. The audio gurus over at HDForums convinced me to give the BT355 a try and I'm glad that I did.



With the BT355 you can leave the AMP setting at Full Pass and the Biketronics Line Out Converter takes care of the filtering. If you want to use any other LOC, you might need to use the HPF setting on the AMP and tune accordingly.



Again, I want to stress..... If you're going to use the stock HU with the Cerwin-Vega AMP you WILL NEED a line out converter. The only question is whether you want to skimp on the LOC and go with Metra, PAC etc. or jump right in and make the investment with the BT355. In the end I'm glad that I ended up with the BT355.


What about the B52. Should I install a 2 channel loc?


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What about the B52. Should I install a 2 channel loc?


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Hey Shaggy, sorry for the really late reply. I've been swamped. The B52 comes with a piggy tail that converts the line in wires to RCA. So unless you plan to snip off the RCA leads and use just the input wires you'll still need a LOC. I would advise against hacking off the RCA leads though. The CV Stealth Bombers series amps are designed to be used with low level inputs and the input voltage specification is 200mV minimum to 10V maximum. So if you treat the low level input of the AMP as a high level input (i.e. by ditching the RCA leads and connecting the wires directly) you're easily going to overdrive the CV low level input specification.

Your best two options are;

If money is no object spring for the BT355 LOC

If money is tight snag up on of the less expensive LOCs mentioned in previous posts and do your tuning using the HPF and Frequency Adjustments on the AMP. A starting point if you decide to go this route;

Set Crossover to High Pass
Set Frequency Adjustment to 100-120Hz
Set Gain to 30% (around 9 oclock position)
Set radio volume to 3/4 high (13 clicks out of 17 clicks)

Start tuning from there using either your ears, by voltage using a multi-meter or by sine wave using an oscilloscope.
 

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You guys that have the CW B54 or B52 amp installed in a Rushmore bike. Can you tell me where and how did you install the amp in the Fairing? Pics would def help.
 
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