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Discussion Starter #1
and need the plastic fork tool things to remove the ptt set-resume,etc switches. Harley doesn't sell them- supposedly they come with the switch covers when you buy the whole kit. The reason I want to use the tool is while replacing the set resume switch I broke the one next to it trying to get the knob off. And the Moco bangs you $65 for one of those tiny switches. Then you have to open the loom the wiring goes thru to soldier the connection. And if you just spent 6 hrs trying to wire your bars....Anyway, if someone did their switches over and don't need the fork tool things I'd like to buy them. If not I'll have to check ebay, but I'd figure I would put it out here first. Thanks
 

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Hey thanks Norm. Pm me and we can talk. Thanks
 

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I've looked all over and can't find it. Coulda swore I saw it over the weekend. You really don't need the tool anyway. I had mine apart a couple times before I got the tool with the switch housings. Just slide some electrical tape behind the switch to protect the chrome, then use a small set of needle nose pliers as a wedge, slide them point first behind the switch with the plier jaws almost touching the switch stem and the little handle thingy (technical term) will pop right off.

Btw, got a set of chrome housings off fleabay for 20 couple dollars.
 

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Thanks Norm. I'm just afraid that if I break another switch I'll lose it. I'm going to give it a shot, but I'll probably make something up; my own fork thing.
 

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The fork tool is nothing but a wedge to push the switch handle off the stem. The needle nose pliers trick works good. Good luck with it.
 

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Oh, another thing to be careful of is pinching any of the wiring when you reassemble everything. Double and triple check your work as you go along.
 

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It's not as big a deal as you might think. I just changed my switch caps out tonight. I had an old car upholstery clip removal tool I had from Autozone (cheap one with the red handle) laying around and it worked perfectly.

Oddly enough, the manual says to use a pair of pliers on those bottom toggle switches, and doing so destroys them. The upholstery tool slid those things off like butter. Norm's advice about sliding a pair of small needle nose pliers under them should work just fine too. Don't waste your money on a tool if you have a small pair of needle nose.

The kicker might be a T-6 torx for the toggle switch housing. I had one of those all in one small torx screwdrivers, and luckily it had that size in the handle. The biggest PITA was removing that flippin' trip reset cap. Was afraid I would break it off with my mitts, so took a pair of pliers, wrapped the switch with a cloth rag, and gently rocked it back and forth until it finally slid off. The entire process went much easier than I thought, and I spent less time actually doing it, than time spent searching non existent YouTube videos on how to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I picked up some small plastic trim removal tools. Figured I'd give it a shot. Went nice and easy. And the switch broke. The center piece--the brass rod and cap to the actual switch pulled off. And I just got done internally wiring the bars. Just had to walk away and close the garage up.
I'll take a look tomorrow.
 

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Wow. Sorry to hear that. I've been having some of the same kind of issues myself.
If you look at the pictures of the chrome switch housings on FleaBay you can see the tool in some of them. It doesn't work as well as the needle nose pliers approach. The groove in the fork is too wide IMO and puts too much torque on the switch and switch handle. The pliers allow you to minimize the gap so the wedge action is pulling straight out, not trying to bend the handle and is more controllable.
BTW, I'm still looking for that tool.
 
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