[pauld]

Before I state my dilemma, some background.
2021 FLTRX. Screamin' Eagle oval breather, SE torque cam, S&S lifters, SE adjustable push rods, SE street canons. SE pro street tuner.
Been chasing a sound and some odd tuner numbers. I thought the high numbers were partly due to a leaky exhaust system but I checked that out and did not find any leaks.
On data run only, getting up to 6 deg. knock retard on both cylinders. Decreased timing in those areas and then got a max of 4 degrees knock retard, both cylinders. I had already finished 4 smart tune runs, and adjusted the VE tables.
Today I decided to do another smart tune run to see what the VE tables would do with all of the previous adjustments. The bike ran horribly and it seemed very loud. It was hard to tell but it seemed the front cylinder had a loud ticking, almost banging sound. It was louder than the ping sound one might get on accelerations but not a hard banging. Tomorrow, I am going to check the adjustment on the push rods and go through the process to re-adjusting those.
Any other thoughts as to what might be happening?

 

[cactusredtx]

Guess it really depends on when was the last time the bike sounded "right"? Did this start up after the cam/lifter install as in are the lifters adjusted correctly? Did it start after the tune, maybe the tune is not the correct tune for the bike? I'm sure ruling out a bad fill up of gas too?

 

[pauld]

Come to think of it...it was after the cam install. I downloaded the map that matched my add ons, and it ran good, but not great. One thing that changed a lot was the VE tables. I then thought they might be off because I still have the stock mufflers on...eventually went to SE street canons, and still could not dial it in. Then I changed to S&S lifters, and S&S lifter guide.

 

[pauld]

UPDATE:. as I was re-adjusting the SE pushrods, noticed locking nut was not turning smoothly. Inspected and found it was not grabbing the threats and with some effort could almost remove it without turning it. SO, got replacement SE adjustable push rods and have run into a mystery. Instructions say not to use the lock nut on the lower portion of the threads because they are reduced. BUT the upper portion of the full threads never show when adjusting the rods properly.

 

[cactusred]

Not sure on that set of instructions there, I had the harley torque cam on my 17SGS and used the harley s/e quickie rods, and had no issues. I'd have to search out a video but I'm sure there are plenty of them out there with folks putting in the adjustment on those pushrods. The lower portion you wouldn't be "locking" the jam nuts together but your certainly spinning it to walk up the travel to extend the length then when you dial in the flats/turns required is when the jam nut is locked. If it was after the cam install I would certainly be redoing my lifter adjustment just to make sure I had the front and rear on their respective base came lobes to adjust correctly.

 

[pauld]

This from the instruction manual "See Figure 2. Lower portions of adjusting screw with reduced thread height and machined flats are not used for locking adjustment. Locknut should only be used on section with full threads."

 

[Big_gary]

This from the instruction manual "See Figure 2. Lower portions of adjusting screw with reduced thread height and machined flats are not used for locking adjustment. Locknut should only be used on section with full threads."

Re read your post again .. Strange indeed . Are you adjusting them on cams base lobe ?

 

[pauld]

Re read your post again .. Strange indeed . Are you adjusting them on cams base lobe ?

Yes. Rear wheel lifted, bike in 6th gear, two spark plugs out for less pressure. Feel both lifters go down in the front, and then i check the piston through spark hole to see if it is TDC .
Also, the pushrods are numbered on the HD website AND at the dealership I got them from.

 

[Big_gary]

Yes. Rear wheel lifted, bike in 6th gear, two spark plugs out for less pressure. Feel both lifters go down in the front, and then i check the piston through spark hole to see if it is TDC .
Also, the pushrods are numbered on the HD website AND at the dealership I got them from.

I wonder if the factory got them mixed up . The exhaust tubes are a bit longer .

 

[jstucker1976]

Silly question but you say both go down in the front are you then doing the front or the rear

 

[pauld]

Silly question but you say both go down in the front are you then doing the front or the rear

Front cylinder put on compression stroke, both lifters low on the cam lobe, adjust both pushrods for the front, one at a time.

 

[pauld]

update (again). got pushrods installed, and snugged lock nut. After about 30 minutes, I went back to the bike and was checking to make sure my adjustments were correct. I made sure the rod I was checking was lowest in the stroke so I could spin it just to make sure and double check that I tightened the lock nut, I noticed a wobble in the EXH pushrod. Eventually took them ALL out and if I roll the push rod on a very flat surface, I can see there is a slight bend. Damn it. Back to the dealer to listen to their BS....