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Discussion Starter #1
Bike has been running great except blowing taillights 2 in the last week, 200 miles into a ride Friday the check engine light came on and the cruise quit working no other problems. Checked the code and found p0577 cruise control input high. Finished the ride another 150 miles without any issues seems to running fine. Did the drop down test for the cruise without identifying the problem not sure where to go next. Prefer to repair it myself if I can no longer under warranty. Thanks Chris
 

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Lundboy1 thanks, I had seen this before, while researching the code and I also found info on doing the diagnostic drop down test of the cruise to check the sensors but so far everything check out fine. I cleared the code but after a few miles of riding the light returns and the cruise still doesn't work, I even did a hard reset by disconnecting the power by removing the 40 amp fuse no luck.
 

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Last year I had a '12 Road King, on the way to Sturgis my cruise quit and the check engine light came on - not sure what the codes were but it was a bad cruise switch, Mankato HD swapped it out and I was good to go.
 

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Lundboy1 last big mods was over the winter with new bars and new gauges, install was straight forward without problems and no other electrical problems so far over 1500 miles since install. I continue to wander if the problem with the taillights is related.

Hellinabucket I wandered about the switch given all that has been reported on the forums about failure but from what I have read the cruise drop out test is suppose to identify a switch failure or sensor problem but if passed I performed it 4 times. Any other thoughts?
 

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Blowing the fuse on the taillights and the cruise control not functioning may be related. You may have a short or a overload somewhere in the taillight system. Try to isolate the problem, start with pulling the rear light bulbs and if the fuse still blows then unplug the rear lighting harness, you may have a pinched wire under the seat or under the fender which is more common with bikes that have been lowered. It is hard to diagnose electrical problems some times with out the right equipment so taking it for repairs may be a better option if you cant find a obvious problem.
 

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Problem solved, the cruise set/resume switch was bad, replaced switch and no problems after a 40 mile ride this evening. I initially thought the switch was good but i was misinterpreting the drop down test. I am not sure what caused the premature failure of my taillight bulbs but I didn't find a ground. It may be time to replace the 11/57 bulbs with LEDs. Thanks to the members that responded for my call for help. I am not sure if the cruise and taillight failure is related.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Blowing the fuse on the taillights and the cruise control not functioning may be related. You may have a short or a overload somewhere in the taillight system. Try to isolate the problem, start with pulling the rear light bulbs and if the fuse still blows then unplug the rear lighting harness, you may have a pinched wire under the seat or under the fender which is more common with bikes that have been lowered. It is hard to diagnose electrical problems some times with out the right equipment so taking it for repairs may be a better option if you cant find a obvious problem.
Ironmark it has been blowing the bulbs not the fuse. Thanks for your help and info from other posts of yours on how to check the codes and interpret them.
 

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Glad you found the problem and it was a easy fix.
 

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I am having similar issues with the check engine light and no cruise. pulled codes p0577 c1094 c1214. I am assuming that these codes are all pointing to a failure in one of the cruise components.

I have searched but can't seem to find the instructions for the "drop down test" mentioned earlier. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Titus hope this helps.

Easiest way to check all dropout functions of your cruise control.
1. bike off, run/stop to run
2. push set/resume to set and hold.
3 with cruise on/off switch to on, turn on bike
4. cruise indicator light should be green, release set switch, light should turn red.
5. push to resume and release, light should turn green then red
6. push throttle closed and release, light should turn green then red
7. push rear brake pedal and release, light should turn green then red
8. pull front brake lever, light should turn green then red
9. on models with a clutch/neutral starter lockout, pull clutch lever, light should turn green then red whichever switch does not turn the light green, is your bad one.
if light will not turn green at all and you have followed ALL directions and tried multiple times, your set/resume switch is bad.
If light stays green even after releasing set switch, one of the dropout switches is stuck closed, usually the roll off throttle switch. unplug this and try again.
Make sure brake light will not turn on without using brakes (wobbly brake lever, stuck rear brake light switch etc.)
 

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Thanks for the tip neuropac, I will try this in the morning and see if I can get it figured out.

I only have 3800 miles on it and Saturday I had to replace a warped rotor so you can probably imagine how frustrated I am a day later having no cruise and a check engine light.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Titus the code c1094 front brake switch always on c1214 rear brake switch always on, have you checked to see if your brake lights are working? If they aren't this would affect your cruise any modifications lately?
 

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Yeah, I printed off the code list when I was printing the instructions for retrieving codes. I had a friend following me when the problem occurred and he said my lights were fine (not burnt out or always on). I checked again when I got home and brake lights seem to work fine.

About 1000-1200 miles ago I put 14" bars on. I did the job myself with help from this forum but haven't had any issues until now. That is the main reason I wanted to try the "drop down test" before tearing bars off again.

1000 mile service and replacing the right front rotor are the only other times the bike has had a wrench to it.
 

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Last year I had a '12 Road King, on the way to Sturgis my cruise quit and the check engine light came on - not sure what the codes were but it was a bad cruise switch, Mankato HD swapped it out and I was good to go.
Problem solved, the cruise set/resume switch was bad, replaced switch and no problems after a 40 mile ride this evening. I initially thought the switch was good but i was misinterpreting the drop down test. I am not sure what caused the premature failure of my taillight bulbs but I didn't find a ground. It may be time to replace the 11/57 bulbs with LEDs. Thanks to the members that responded for my call for help. I am not sure if the cruise and taillight failure is related.
I called it. :)
 

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OK, I did the drop down test multiple times. The first time everything seemed to work as it should. I made sure codes were cleared and took it for a test run. Cruise still didn't work and CEL came on after a few minutes.

When I got back to the house I checked the codes again, this time only getting the p0577 - cruise control input high.

Did the drop down test several times and realized that sometimes when hitting the "set" button, the indicator light would turn green and stay green. I could "flick" the "set" button a few times and get the light to return to red. Multiple attempts showed same results.

Since I replaced the handlebars myself, I am assuming harley won't warranty the switch. Anyone have experience with that?
also, does anyone have a part number for that? I can't seem to find it on harley's website.
 
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