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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I didn't have anything else to do besides ride the bike so I decided to tear down the cam chest and check the crank run out, I also wanted to do this because the rear intake lifter roller bearing went out and I want to check the cams for any damage or metal debris in the cam chest.
The end result was there no metal debris in the cam chest so I caught the bad lifter in time. There was no damage to the cam lobes either.
The crank run out was surprisingly good for a 2008, I only had .003 run out on the crank so that makes me extremely happy.:D
It was a good 5 or 6 hours of work but the bike is back together and running and it was worth the time to have peace of mind. ;)
 

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That's not bad at all. Aren't the tolerances up to .010. I'm kinda curious about mine but I'm not gonna dig in just for that so I'll wait
 

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That really is quite good. Mine was .004 @ 32k. When the time comes to rebuild, I'll send the crank out to Darkhorse or, install the new S&S crank. Not sure which would be the best option. Could use some input on that choice........
 

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That's not bad at all. Aren't the tolerances up to .010. I'm kinda curious about mine but I'm not gonna dig in just for that so I'll wait

the .012 HD spec is just so the factory dosnt have to warrantee a bunch of motors.damage to the oil pump/cam plate could be a problem around .005-up. .000 to .002 is OK,.003-.004 is acceptable,.005-up needs attention
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's not bad at all. Aren't the tolerances up to .010. I'm kinda curious about mine but I'm not gonna dig in just for that so I'll wait
It isn't that big of a job if you have adjustable pushrods it just takes a little time too do it. I didn't have the special tools to hold the lifters up so I had to pull the lifter covers to pull the lifters out so they didn't drop in the cam chest when I pulled the cams out, but that is only 8 more bolts so it isn't a big deal.
Once you pull the right floorboard and the exhaust it is pretty easy job to pull the cam chest apart.
If you go to the HD service manual for your bike in the engine section index you will find a "Service Wear Limits" section. My manual list Flywheel run out at .0.000 -0.010 runout if shaft is measured in case. The manual says that the crank should be replaced when runout with shaft measured in case is 0.012.
Specs are different if the crank runout is measured in a truing stand which is 0.004 and the crank should be replaced when it measures 0.005.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That's very low for 07 and up Bike.
Almost everyone we check is 4.5/7.5
I was kind off surprised myself, I checked it 5 or 6 times just to make sure, even if my dial indicator was a bit off I would think I would still be in specs.
I am going to check the engine/trans shafts on the primary side the next time it is open up.
 

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That really is quite good. Mine was .004 @ 32k. When the time comes to rebuild, I'll send the crank out to Darkhorse or, install the new S&S crank. Not sure which would be the best option. Could use some input on that choice........
'Did tons of research when spec'ing out the 117, 'went with S&S (less expensive than DH with the Carillo Rods) very smooth with .0005 installed runout.
 
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