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Discussion Starter #1
I'm adjusting my clutch for the first time--has been done before by others---
and after adjustment, I'm getting chatter when riding and clutch is fully engaged.

Cable has 1/8" freeplay as recommended.

It's not clear to me when clutch adjustment screw is 'bottomed' out.
It reaches a point where there is resistance, but you can still turn screw and tighten against resistance.

I stopped where it seemed the resistance began, and then backed out 3/4 turn.

What did I do wrong?
 

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It sounds like you did it right. You should stop when you feel resistance. A few questions though.

Did you completely loosen the cable adjustment before adjusting the clutch?

Was the bike cold when you performed the adjustment (left over night to cool)?

What method did you use to refill the fluid and how much and what kind of fluid was used?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It sounds like you did it right. You should stop when you feel resistance. A few questions though.

Did you completely loosen the cable adjustment before adjusting the clutch?
What is complete?
I had it loosened to where the lever would move to about 1" from grip with no resistance. Resistance began at that point.

Was the bike cold when you performed the adjustment (left over night to cool)?
Yes.

What method did you use to refill the fluid and how much and what kind of fluid was used?
There was no loss of fuid. Bike was upright.
 

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Collapse the cable all the way. Open derby cover and loosen the nut and allen screw. Hold the clutch lever lightly in while it is against the grip and adjust the allen screw IN until you feel a slight pressure on the clutch lever. Back the allen screw out and back in several times until you get the "feel". Back the allen screw OUT 1/2 turn. Tighten the nut down and adjust the cable till there is 1/16 to 1/8" slack where the cable enters the perch. Lock every thing down and go ride.

IT HAS TO BE DONE COLD
 

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Do the clutch adjustment by the workshop manual then it will be done correctly,there's no need to faff with the clutch lever.
Have you done it like that? Try it before you mouth off
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Why would I want to do it like that. What's the advantage over the recognised method.
The advantage I found was that it gave me a more recognizable point at which the adjusting screw was 'bottoming' out. That's what gave me trouble the first time around.

Adjustment now done correctly and I'm back on the road.
 

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Why would I want to do it like that. What's the advantage over the recognised method.
Because it insures that all the free play is removed from the system at the point when the adjuster makes contact. I do it all the time. You're doing it like the manual describes, but this is the same thing with the added value of taking up slop. I find if I follow the factory method the clutch doesn't disengage until the lever is almost to the bar... and I hate that.
 

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If you take all the free play out it not adjusted correctly, it needs some free play especially when the engine is at running temperature.
The procedure described insures you've got all the slop out of the cable and the ball and ramp isn't high centered before you adjust the clutch pushrod to the 1/2-1 turn free play.
 
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